As a veteran beauty editor, I know this much: Europe is far stricter than the U.S. when it comes to cosmetic (and even food) ingredients. The European Union (EU) takes a precautionary stance, while the U.S. often reacts only after issues arise. So when I learned that, as of September 1, Europe officially banned a key ingredient found in many gel nail polishes, I wasted no time speed-dialing my trusted dermatologist for her expert take.
Of course I care about my health, but having a chip-free, long-lasting manicure is also a hard beauty treatment to give up. Do we need to?
Mona Gohara, MD, associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine
What Gel Nail Polish Ingredient Is Banned in Europe?
Starting September 1, the European Union banned TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), a chemical photoinitiator (a light-sensitive compound that absorbs light energy and converts it into chemical energy) that helps gel nail polish harden under UV or LED light. In other words, it’s the ingredient that gives gel manicures their quick-dry power and that signature glass-like shine. The reason for the ban? TPO is classified as a CMR 1B substance—meaning it’s considered carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction. Yikes.
Do You Need to Stop Getting Gel Nails?
When it comes to beauty treatments, it’s always wise to do your homework, trust your instincts, and check in with your doctor or dermatologist. The EU is banning this particular ingredient out of caution, though so far, there haven’t been any large-scale human studies showing definitive harm. The good news for gel manicure lovers is that you don’t have to give up your favorite look—many polishes are now made without this ingredient. At the salon, simply ask for a TPO-free formula; options include brands like Manucurist, Aprés Nails, and OPI’s Intelli-Gel system.
What Does a Dermatologist Advise?
One of the many reasons I love and respect dermatologist Mona Gohara is how relatable she is. When I first reached out about the new gel nail issue, she instantly responded with, “I can’t with the gel—I’m devastated.” Because she, too, is a gel nail stan. After all, most regular nail polishes chip quickly, so it’s not the most practical option for busy people.
“This is a chemical, and just like when people worry about chemical sunscreens—despite no human data showing carcinogenicity, the simplest precaution is avoidance—using mineral sunscreens instead,” explains Gohara. “By the same logic, when uncertainty exists around ingredients like those in gel nail polish, the safest step is to limit or avoid use,” she says, pointing out that thankfully, there are many gel nail polish formulas that do not contain this ingredient (whew).
Some precautionary steps include skipping gels (natural nails are having a moment!) or getting less gel manis to help limit exposure. Save them for a special occasion.