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The Trump state visit to Britain this week had all the dazzling pomp and pageantry one would expect of the meeting of a king and president of the United States (especially when the latter is Donald Trump, a man so fond of gold he has covered the Oval Office with it).
More unexpected, perhaps, was that Melania Trump chose a hat for much of the proceedings that shielded her eyes from the spectacle. For most of the first day, which took place at Windsor Castle, her face was shrouded in shadow even though she stood in the full glare of the spotlight. It was cast by a grape-purple wide-brim hat that sat so low on her head it covered her eyes from virtually every angle, making it impossible to glean any clues about what she was thinking. Which was almost certainly the point.
The first lady wears a hat by Eric Javits at President Trump’s inauguration in January © AFP via Getty Images
On second thoughts, this isn’t the first time Mrs Trump — who matched Wednesday’s choice of headwear with a dark grey Dior suit — has taken to hiding in plain sight. On her husband’s second inauguration day in January, she wore a hat similar to this one — a white and navy version that co-ordinated with a tailored wool coat and silk blouse created by the New York designer (and her regular stylist) Adam Lippes. The inauguration hat was designed by Eric Javits. The creator of Mrs Trump’s hat for the UK state visit has yet to be publicly disclosed by the White House.
The first lady with Catherine, Princess of Wales, and Queen Camilla at Windsor Castle yesterday © Getty Images
Mrs Trump, wearing an off-the-shoulder gown by Carolina Herrera, arrives with Queen Camilla for a state banquet at Windsor Castle yesterday . . . © Pool/AFP via Getty Images
. . . and in a tan suede safari jacket for a visit to Frogmore Gardens with the Princess of Wales © Getty Images
Still, it made for a striking choice in the game of political power dressing as the Prince and Princess of Wales formally introduced the Trumps to King Charles and Queen Camilla at Windsor Castle on Wednesday. As she walked between the Princess of Wales (in a made-to-measure maroon felt hat with net veil by Jane Taylor to match her Emilia Wickstead coat dress) and the Queen (who wore a Fiona Clare sapphire blue wool dress and matching coat, with a hat by Philip Treacy), Mrs Trump’s choice of attire did much of the talking for her. Her reluctance to take on all the demands of a first lady has been well documented, particularly in her husband’s second term; now, when she does appear at her husband’s side, she is determined to do it her way. Or so say her sartorial choices.
Mrs Trump does not wear a crown (at least not yet). But this hat offered her power and protection, an accessory that was also armour. Her husband, whose tie was the same colour and who at one stage tried to kiss her cheek, couldn’t get beyond its brim. The world’s media, desperate for a single glance or flicker that might betray her thoughts and feelings about the encounter, were left sorely disappointed. When the party went inside the castle, most women removed their hats as is royal protocol (the Princess of Wales switched her headpiece for a neat matching bow). Not Mrs Trump. Hers did not come off, including during a long conversation with the Queen.
President Trump and the first lady are greeted by the Prince and Princess of Wales at Windsor Castle yesterday © Pool/AFP via Getty Images
Mrs Trump, hidden by her hat, is shown the royal collection at Windsor Castle © Reuters
Well, it did eventually. For the glittering state banquet that evening, where she wore a canary yellow off-the-shoulder gown by Carolina Herrera teamed with a square-buckled candy-coloured belt. For a tour on Thursday, given by the Queen, of the royal library and to view Queen Mary’s dolls’ house (apparently the biggest in the world), where she wore a buttery caramel leather skirt suit. And for a joint engagement building bug houses and doing leaf stamping with children in Frogmore Gardens with the Princess of Wales), where Mrs Trump sported a tan suede safari jacket and white trousers. As two of the most famous women in the world stood and smiled together, there were no hats to be seen, though it did at times feel like a battle of the blow-dries.
In those more informal moments, the first lady appeared happier to be the centre of attention. And there were occasional nods to some of the traditional conventions of diplomatic dressing, such as wearing looks by designers from your host country: Dior is obviously French but now has a Northern Irishman, Jonathan Anderson, at its creative helm; there was also a classic Burberry trench that was floor-length, almost like a royal robe.
Still, that purple hat was the most memorable look of them all. It gave Mrs Trump an air of mystery and inaccessibility, of being both part of the extravaganza but also apart from it. An accessory that was a physical barrier between her and the shouts of protesters at the gates, the endless camera flashes and the occasionally unsolicited conversation, it spoke volumes.
All without her saying a word.