Tommy Hope, head chef, Tala
Buy: Mayonnaise and Christmas mince pies
Make: Gravy
“I’ll always make my own gravy for a roast, whether it’s a stock reduced to a nice sticky jus or a last minute number with the juices from the roasting tray, cooked out with a spoon of flour and a bit of nice stock. Quite often the gravy you buy in stores is overpriced or artificial.
“I’ll always buy mayonnaise for the house. Store-bought mayonnaise has a much longer shelf life and it’s decent for most things like a potato salad or leftover glazed Christmas ham sammies. I’m also a sucker for store-bought Christmas mince pies, the cheaper the better.
“Christmas for me is not hugely about the food, but more the gathering of family and friends. I remember a Christmas dinner I had down at the beach once with my wife Claire. We were on a road trip and we picked up a small disposable bbq tray with the coals inside from Bunnings, stopped off at this fishing wharf and bought a couple of live crayfish which they halved for us on the boat; a block of butter and a lemon and sat on the beach with a couple of cold beers … ”
Chef Plabita Florence will be mixing her own Christmas-flavoured Christmas drinks. Photo / Fiona Goodall
Plabita Florence, chef and owner, Forest
Buy: Fresh pasta
Make: Drinks
“I really like to make drinks from scratch. Whether it’s herb tea for after you’ve eaten too much – a bunch of fresh mint, sweet marjoram and marigold from the garden – or a white negroni like we make at Forest (gin, Suze and Disaronno infused with roasted almonds). It tastes just like a Christmas cake!
“My family’s pretty non-traditional so our Christmas menu changes from year to year and we don’t really make any classics. One thing I do like to buy is fresh egg pasta. It’s super quick to cook and feels a little more luxurious than your run-of-the-mill dried variety. I remember seeing Jamie Oliver on TV years ago where he suggested buying fresh lasagne sheets and cutting noodles yourself, to make it seem handmade when all you really had to do was open a packet.”
Chef Phil Clark’s homemade trifle is an homage to his nanna. Photo / Jason Dorday
Phil Clark, chef and owner, Kingsland Social
Buy: Pavlova
Make: Trifle, including the sponge and custard
“You can get away with buying a bought pavlova and throwing some beautiful fresh fruit and whipped cream on top, but you would definitely make a traditional trifle. Homemade is just what makes a trifle so good. It’s homely, comforting and reminds me of my Nanna’s cooking. Fresh vanilla pods scraped into your custard mix and whiskey drizzled over a warm, freshly baked sponge. It doesn’t get much better!
“Bought gravy powder is okay to use as a stock – but I would definitely start by browning off some fresh meat trimmings and vegetables, deglazed with red wine and a sprig of thyme … ”
When it comes to bread buy the good stuff, says chef Lucas Parkinson. Photo / Babiche Martens
Lucas Parkinson, chef and owner, Aryeh, Piha
Buy: Cheese, crackers, good quality bread
Make: Everything else, especially the gravy
“I’m old school and half my bloodline comes from Italy, so we generally make everything from scratch, except cheese and crackers and maybe some good quality bread. I believe that the more things you make from scratch, with love, will result in a better meal that really connects friends and family.
“I like to get creative with the turkey. A few years ago, I broke down and braised the turkey, roasted the bones and made gravy out of that. It was the best turkey anyone had had, including myself! On that note, packet gravy is a big no-no. That vile sachet of chemical-laden powders has taken its toll on New Zealand’s tables and restaurants. Oh, and if you’re making a pav, make a real one – yes it’s more work but the end result is so worth the effort.”
Chef Al Brown starts Christmas mornings with pancakes from a packet. Photo / Carson Bluck
Al Brown, chef and owner, Depot and Fed Deli
Buy: Mayonnaise, sauces, pancake mix
Make: Vinaigrettes, caramelised spicy seeds and, sometimes, pavlova
“Hell yeah, I’d admit to buying something – there’s no food or product shaming in our household. I have a massive bag of Bisquick pancake mix that’s our usual Christmas breakfast, with blueberries and fresh strawberries tossed in, served with lashings of butter and maple syrup. I’d buy sauces [I gather the Al Brown range is particularly good for most situations!] and there really are some excellent chutneys and relishes out there. Julie Le Clerc’s are my go-to.
“I usually have a little pre-Christmas cooking session a week or so out. Things like caramelised spicy seeds to throw on salads, dressings/vinaigrettes, bruschetta and crackers, meringues and, sometimes, The Pav.
“While you’ll see me spooning out store-bought Best Mayonnaise here and there, I will always make my vinaigrette from scratch. Just toss the ingredients in an Agee jar and shake the shit out of it – one-third vinegar, one-third extra virgin olive oil, one-third canola oil, mustard, garlic, salt and pepper and a little sugar. Taste and adjust. You can always add more of an ingredient, but once it’s in, it’s impossible to get it out.
Chef Sid Sahrawat (pictured judging the Bakels Supreme Pie Awards) says there’s no shame in store-bought shortcuts. Photo / Michael Craig
Sid Sahrawat, executive chef and owner, Cassia and The French Cafe
Buy: Sponge cake for the trifle
Make: Salads and dressings
“For me, Christmas is more Kiwi backyard barbecue than formal sit-down feast. We take advantage of the beautiful summer produce in New Zealand: think corn, tomatoes, and asparagus, all at their peak. I always make salads and dressings fresh. There’s nothing like the flavour you get when everything’s just-picked.
“That said, I’m not above a few shortcuts. I’ll happily cheat with a store-bought sponge cake when making the trifle – nobody ever knows, and it saves a lot of time. It’s the perfect base to layer up with custard, cream, and fresh fruit for a show-stopping dessert that feels festive but fuss-free … there’s no shame in using quality store-bought items that help you enjoy the day more. Christmas isn’t the time to be chained to the stove.”
Christmas tables are not immune to dietary requirements, says chef Simon Levy. Photo / Jerome Warburton
Simon Levy, chef and owner, Inati, Christchurch
Buy: Puff pastry and gluten-free gravy mix
Make: Beef Wellington
“I like to make Beef Wellington when we are hosting Christmas Day lunch, because it reminds me of winter Christmas at home. Christmas, to me, is a special time of fun with the family and good food forms part of this.
“Just like in the restaurant, we have family dietary requirements of gluten- and dairy-free, so I like to make a meal that we can all enjoy. I buy puff pastry and a GF/DF puff as it’s much quicker than making my own. And I have no problem with buying a GF packet gravy and jazzing this up – it gives me more time to spend with everyone else, rather than in the kitchen.”
Homemade gravy is a Christmas non-negotiable for Michael Meredith
Michael Meredith, chef and owner, Mr Morris and Metita
Buy: Pastry and ice cream
Make: Gravy
“The gravy or the sauce must be made from scratch. It ties everything together – all the work that’s gone into the roast deserves a sauce with real flavour. Start with good bones or the roasting tray juices, reduce it slowly, and finish with a touch of acidity or a knob of butter for shine.
“If you’re short on time, there’s no shame in using a good quality bought-in pastry. You can still make it your own by brushing with egg yolk and adding your own filling or seasonal fruit. Store-bought ice cream can also be dressed up easily with a drizzle of olive oil, roasted nuts, or a quick fruit compote.”
Kim Knight joined the New Zealand Herald in 2016 and is a senior journalist on its lifestyle desk. She makes gravy from scratch (and custard from an Edmonds packet).