When everyone is closing, what makes a restaurant survive?

McLean counts himself fortunate to have an informal network of chefs nationwide who he talks through issues with. “If you need a pick-me-up, it’s only a phone call away.” He values his suppliers, too. “I stay loyal to them, keep things in the circle, I’ve built a relationship with my suppliers, and they get a feel for what I want. You need to love your region, and your local produce.”