We set out for The Lindis in North Otago with the kind of anticipation only a remote luxury lodge bordering a dark sky reserve can evoke.
I had imagined crisp bluebird days, inky skies ablaze with constellations, and maybe a glass of pinot under the Milky Way.
Instead, the sky delivered something moodier: cloud, fog, and the soft drumming of winter rain. But as it turns out, this was also a perfect way to experience The Lindis.
The Aruhiri Valley borders the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve.
A living mural
From the moment we stepped inside the dramatic, low-slung building – all curves, stone and glass – the tension of work calls and delays on the road dissolved.
The fire was lit, the staff knew our names, and flutes of Champagne appeared as we sat down on the soft couches in the lounge on arrival.
The Ahuriri Valley stretched out beyond the floor-to-ceiling glass like a living mural. In that moment, we stopped checking the sky and began to really see the land.
The interiors reflect the valley’s colours.
A valley shaped by glaciers and sheep
The Lindis is tucked deep within the valley. This land was carved by glaciers more than ten thousand years ago, leaving a high-country wilderness of golden tussocks, braided rivers, and moraine hills.
The lodge sits within Ben Avon Station, a working Merino sheep station, adding a subtle layer of authenticity to the landscape’s solitude.
The land borders the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve.
The building itself, opened in 2018 and designed by Architecture Workshop, almost disappears within the landscape.
Its sinuous timber roof echoes the moraine slopes surrounding it. Inside, earthy materials – warm wood, locally quarried stone, and brass fixtures – reflect the valley’s colours.
With only five suites and three discrete pods, it feels quite intimate.
The master suite at The Lindis.
Caviar and stormlight
That first afternoon, we were whisked away to the Black Diamond, a new off-grid dining cabin perched on a remote ridge above the lodge.
Activity manager Andy Cousins told us he’d originally asked the owners to build a basic hut so he could host picnics in the wild without lugging barbecues, blankets and gear.
What the architects delivered instead was something else entirely: a sleek, black, angular structure with triple-glazed windows, sheepskin throws, and a pot-belly stove.
A sort of luxury alpine hideout.
As the weather turned and the wind picked up, we sat inside sipping Champagne and trying caviar for the first time. Not something I’d usually go for, but there was something beautiful about the contrast between the decadent fare and the wild valley slowly fading into twilight.
The Black Diamond is very much the Lindis version of a hut.
Dinner worth travelling for
Both evenings began with a drink by the fire and a small canape (a melt-in-mouth beef and pāua skewer one night, a tartare taco bursting with flavour the next). A good chance to chat with fellow guests: a couple from Texas lodge-hopping their way through New Zealand and a young pair from Auckland escaping the city.
Then came the main event: a multi-course menu that was as comforting as it was surprising.
The Lindis would be worth a visit for the food alone.
On the first night, a velvety cauliflower dish with black truffle and wagyu bresaola delivered a perfect balance of crunch, softness, and bite. Never have I enjoyed cauliflower so much.
Market fish followed, paired with satay macadamia and textural carrot, and finished with a playful lemon curd dessert balanced by basil sorbet.
On the second night, the eye fillet was so perfectly cooked I forgot to speak for a minute. It came with smoked kūmara, broccolini, and hazelnut chimichurri. The wine pairings were equally thoughtful and flawless.
We had the Ahuriri breakfast both mornings – fried eggs, hash browns, mushrooms, spinach, and bacon – with barista-made coffee, fresh juice, and views of the waking valley. It felt indulgent and relaxed, without trying too hard.
Adventure on the doorstep
The view from our suite.
Our suite, like everything else at The Lindis, was oriented toward the view. From the freestanding bathtub, we watched shadows move across the mountains while sipping organic lemonade and munching popcorn from the complimentary minibar.
Stepping out into that view was a matter of just opening the door. A 5km walk around the property, the Amphitheatre Track, offered spectacular riverside views, easy gradients, and the satisfying crunch of frosty grass underfoot.
Andy shared stories of the land’s farming history during a 4WD tour of the valley, taking us to viewpoints we wouldn’t have found on foot.
The Lindis is one of those places that makes you feel deeply looked after without ever being overbearing.
On the second day, we found our muddy hiking boots had been cleaned and dried without us asking. A goodnight snack appeared on our bed. A GPS tracker and radio were provided to make sure we stayed safe on our hikes.
Plenty of walks for all fitness levels to explore around the lodge.
Shooting star finale
On our final night, the sky cleared just enough. We slipped into the outdoor hot tub under a nearly full moon, the only sound the rustle of wind through the tussocks.
Then, two shooting stars crossed the sky, sharp and close and quick. We hadn’t had the full dark-sky experience, but those few seconds were gold.
A hot tub in complete isolation.
Final thoughts
The Lindis is a place where even bad weather becomes cinematic. The changing light, the solitude, the wildness pressing against the glass: it’s all part of the show.
The Lindis lodge pricing starts at $1,893 per room, per night until September 30th (during the stay 3, pay 2 offer) and $3,015 per room per night from October 2025. All rates include nightly pre-dinner drinks and canapes, nightly multi-course dinner , daily breakfast, daily light lunch (on stayover days) , turndown service, complimentary minibar , access to gym and private outdoor hot tub and GST.
Under the Stars experience runs in August 2025, offering complimentary experiences rotating nightly, such as fireside mulled wine, guided stargazing, outdoor soaks and a multi-course ‘Dining in the Dark’ menu.
The writer and her husband were guests of The Lindis Group. For more information, visit thelindisgroup.com.
All images: The Lindis Group.