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The Michelin Guide returns to Vancouver on October 2, and while Toronto has actually seen some of its early winners lose stars in past years, I don’t see that happening here. Every B.C. restaurant that already has a star (AnnaLena, Barbara, Burdock & Co., iDen & QuanJuDe Beijing Duck House, Kissa Tanto, Masayoshi, Okeya Kyujiro, Published on Main, Sushi Masuda, and St. Lawrence) will keep it.
The bigger question is who’s next. At the very top end—in my opinion—only one restaurant in Vancouver proper feels even close to joining the rarefied two-star club: AnnaLena. Yes, they were snubbed on this year’s North America’s 50 Best list, but if I had to place a bet, they’re still the only ones in the city who could realistically pull off two Michelin stars. The team has been open about chasing that goal, and while it’s undoubtedly an incredibly tough achievement, their cooking, consistency, and ambition set them apart.
Then there are the restaurants on the cusp of a first star. When I tried to make this list, I forced myself to think about who actually will get stars, not just who I personally think deserves them. That’s not easy, but three stand out.
Botanist, where executive chef Hector Laguna continues to turn out some of the most quietly brilliant cooking in the city, seems like a prime candidate. Vancouverites may underrate him, but Michelin inspectors won’t.
Gastown’s long-standing gem L’Abattoir is another. Anyone who’s eaten there recently knows it has the potential; the only question is whether the inspectors are still holding that overcooked scallop from 2023 against them. I don’t think so—this feels like their year.
And then there’s Sushi Hil. Last year, the upscale Main Street sushi spot was recognized with a Bib Gourmand, Michelin’s nod for good quality and good value. Truthfully, if they just raised prices—given Michelin’s type—a star might already be theirs. I hope they don’t, but anyone who’s eaten there—especially people in the industry—knows they’ve got a real shot.
By this time tomorrow, we’ll know which of these predictions were on point. Until then, it’s all speculation—and the fun part is seeing whether Michelin agrees.