But Purnima Shrestha said that even if the route is opened soon, the climbing window could be reduced this season. She summitted Everest three times in a single season in 2024, having made the first push for the summit on 11 May that year.
“I am not worried that the route won’t open because we still have time for that. But the window could be narrow – with lots of climbers having to make their attempts in a short period of time.”
Despite the Iran war – and its impact on fuel costs and travel – large numbers of people are expected to attempt Everest this year.
“There has been a slight decrease due to the impact of flights, but mountaineering has not been affected as much as trekking,” said Dambar Parajuli, president of the Expedition Operators’ Association.
According to the Department of Tourism, 367 people have so far obtained climbing permits, most of them Chinese. According to climbing organisers, China has not issued permits for foreign nationals from its territory this year.
Most Everest ascents are from Nepal rather than via the easier route from Tibet. Last year, more than 700 people, including guides, summited from the Nepalese side, while only about 100 people climbed from China.
Since photos of climbers queuing on Mount Everest went viral in 2019, Nepal has been tightening its permit system and sharply increasing prices.
Climbing fees for Everest in spring have been hiked this year to $15,000 (£11,105) from $11,000 for foreign nationals. For Nepalis it’s doubled to $1,000.