Watch snobs may see gemstones and think “cash grab!” But the new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set means so much more to the brand. Gerald Charles was founded by Gérald Genta, with Charles being his middle name, and in 2007, Mr Genta created his first and only known asymmetrical integrated bracelet watch – “The Sarawak” – as a piece unique for the Royal Family of Sarawak, Malaysia. It was this very design that not only inspired the new Masterlink Gem Set, but also the genesis of the Masterlink collection.
The case
When entering the luxury integrated bracelet steel watch category, personally, I believe two things are required. There needs to be a handsome sense of “robust elegance”, as I’ve coined it, and the watch needs to be slim and comfortable on the wrist. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set, consistent with the more standard Masterlink, boasts favourable dimensions, measuring 38mm in diameter, a slender 7.99mm thick, and 44.9mm lug-to-lug across the wrist. It is also 100 metres water-resistant and secured by a screw-down crown; a green flag for many collectors evaluating a watch they plan to wear more daily.
Mr Genta, particularly in regard to designs bearing his own name (in one form or another on the dial), did not land on simple shapes or design concepts. The Masterlink, the brainchild of Gerald Charles’ current creative director, Octavio Garcia, built upon the asymmetrical case design seen on the Maestro and “The Sarawak” piece, unique to create a more sporty, bracelet-affixed look for the form.
The detailing of the 316L stainless steel case is top-notch, with a richly brushed case perimeter joined by a fully polished case front to put an elegant foot forward. A nice, subtle touch that showcases the brand’s attention to detail as well is the crown’s clous de Paris motif that adds further finish and flair.
When gems are set into bezels, brands often turn to more malleable and precious materials like the white gold bezel we have here to allow for proper setting of the gemstones. The bezel, depending on the configuration in hand, will hold 60 blue sapphires, red sapphires, or tsavorites (seen above). But the challenge worth crediting the brand for completing is the fact that Gerald Charles cut the stones to fit within the signature asymmetrical “smiley” bezel that introduces a more curved platform for the gemstones towards the 6 o’clock position. Gemsetting is by no means an easy task, but the smiley-shape bezel certainly does not make things easier.
The dial
The dials all follow the same format. Each dial is silver in colour, double-layered with a vertical brush, along with vertical striping to add further depth, dimension, and visual intrigue. At the centre, two semi-skeletonised hands indicate just the hours and minutes – each with luminous fillings for visibility in darkness.
Of course, what differs between each dial and Masterlink Gem Set variant is the gemstones it utilises. Matching the gemstones set into the bezel, 13 gemstones are applied to the dial to serve as the hour indices (with two gemstones indicating the 12th hour).
The strap
The integrated bracelet deceptively appears simple, but that is a credit to its designer. Yes, you have the familiar broad and brushed centre links flanked by narrower mirror-polished link pieces. But Gerald Charles has done an excellent job of creating a seamless feel. It is hard to discern where the case ends and the bracelet begins, and this seamlessness could be challenging enough to design with a more conventionally shaped case.
The narrower polished pieces act as a seamless throughline for the lugs to blend into the bracelet, and Gerald Charles also succeded in ensuring both the flatter top side of the case and smiley bottom of the case blend into the bracelet as well. It is only when you look closer that you would notice the centre links on the 6 o’clock side of the bracelet have a curved upper that gradually flattens, while the 12 o’clock side is flat throughout.
The bracelet is secured to the watch via a butterfly double-folding clasp, but do not make the mistake of trying to yank each side open. I say this because the brand incorporates two very stealthy triggers on each side of the Gerald Charles medallion that act as the twin triggers to unlock each side of the clasp.
The movement
Inside and exhibited is a 2.7mm thick micro-rotor automatic movement that allows the case to be so slender. This “Swiss Manufacture 1.0 calibre” is a manufacture-exclusive variant of the Vaucher 5401. Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, the movement-making arm of Parmigiani Fleurier, is a venerated movement supplier utilised by esteemed watchmakers such as Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. It’s a 50-hour movement that is well decorated, befitting of a luxury design like this.
The verdict
The “price on request” label and gemstones will inevitably, and understandably, cause some watch enthusiasts to tune out from sheer fiscal intimidation. To use One Piece terminology, once “price upon request” is read, it can be a shockwave of Supreme King Haki aura that knocks us out. So, despite myself personally being ruled out from the outset as a potential buyer, I do believe this Masterlink Gem Set trio has been well executed. I think it was very wise for the brand to use a silver dial that blends into the stainless steel and 18k white gold externals to allow the gemstones to pop through (and tastefully through as well, being limited to the bezel and hour indices).
Naturally, this trio of watches is very exclusive in quantity, with only 10 pieces to be made for each configuration. That may not be as rare as “The Sarawak” piece unique, nor does it have diamonds set on the dial, case, and bracelet like “The Sarawak”. But, at risk of offending a Royal Family, I would take the new Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set Red Sapphires over “The Sarawak” hand on heart.
I hope this Gem Set trio draws more attention to the broader collection, but my one challenge for the brand would be to find a way to put more of its own stamp on the micro-rotor calibre within. Such further elaboration would make things more costly, but for a “price on request” level segment of its watches, I think it would have been cool to see fully hand-engraved bridges in place of darkened and striped bridges. This is purely a subjective note, however.
While I did not have the pleasure of knowing or meeting the man personally, I firmly believe Mr Genta would be very proud of the Masterlink Gem Set and Masterlink collection as a whole. Yes, the asymmetrical nature of Gerald Charles watches can be a bit polarising. But, as I said before, this is not a brand begging for unanimous applause. You either like its creations or not. But it is undeniably Genta in spirit.
Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set pricing and availability
The Gerald Charles Masterlink Gem Set collection is available now, with each configuration limited to 10 pieces. Price: on request
Brand
Gerald Charles
Model
Masterlink Gem Set
Reference
ML1.0-SSPS-WG31-18GS-SBCL (blue)
ML1.0-SSPS-WG32-18GS-SBCL (red)
ML1.0-SSPS-WG43-18GS-SBCL (green)
Case Dimensions
38mm (D) x 7.99mm (T) x 44.9mm (LTL)
Case Material
Stainless steel, gem-set 18k white gold bezel
Water Resistance
100 metres, screw-down crown
Crystal(s)
Sapphire front and back
Dial
Striped silver dial + 13 blue sapphires, red sapphires, or tsavorites for the hour indexes
Strap
Integrated stainless steel bracelet, double folding clasp
Movement
GCA 5401, Vaucher 5401 base, micro-rotor automatic
Power Reserve
50 hours
Functions
Hours and minutes
Availability
Limited to 10 pieces per configuration
Price
On request