A frustrating aspect of cycling can be how quickly technology advances and leaves your gear behind. Just when you have saved up to acquire a great set of wheels, tyres, groupset or a bike, the new version comes along and it’s better, lighter and faster than what you have.

What can be even more frustrating is that when the gear you bought breaks, or you make a change somewhere else on your bike, getting your old stuff up to speed is easier said than done.

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Rather than buying a set of new(er) wheels, I decided to put in the work to get it fixed, and I’m glad it did! It reaffirmed to me that even in the world of modern bike tech, if you invest in solid gear and have some creativity, the ability to keep that gear going is easier than the industry might suggest.

SES 4.5s or the deeper and wider SES 6.7.

The 5.6s are not the lightest, nor the widest road rims, but I still found myself looking at them in the back of my bike room, sad that I couldn’t use them anymore. Without rim brakes to grind at the carbon, the rim was still as bulletproof as ever. What a waste to have them sitting there, collecting dust or, worse, getting tossed in a landfill.

Still, a new Enve wheelset replacement seemed a steep price to pay for some old wheels, so for a year, they continued to collect dust, waiting for me to find a solution to get them back on the road.

And then I broke a different set of wheels.

Shimano GRX wheels. It was a substantial blow, and no fault of the Shimano rim as broken wheels are sometimes the price of rugged gravel riding. But almost immediately, my gears started turning: one good rear rim plus one good rear hub equals one whole rear wheel. Once I counted up the spoke holes on the rim and the holes in the hub–and counted again to be 100% sure–my plan started coming together. Both had 24 spoke holes and would work as a combined system.

I still had a few things to figure out: One, I had to find spokes of the right length to match the new hub. Tricky because the Shimano hub was not available for sale individually. It is an OE hub, or a hub that only comes pre-built onto the full wheelset.

There are a few sites online that can find the right length of spokes to match both the rim profile and the hub shape, width and height. But no matter what I tried, I couldn’t quite figure out the way to get the correct measurements. The time had come for me to turn to the professionals.

Fearing the worst, I took the Shimano hub and Enve rim to The Velo, my local independent bike shop here in Phoenix, Arizona.

The Velo is the kind of shop that I knew would be interested in trying to problem-solve with me. And sure enough, they knew a guy. The solution wasn’t an employee on staff, but a semi-retired bike mechanic who works out of his home office on the outskirts of Phoenix. An on-call wheel builder with no website, no social media, just referrals. But he had the right tools and know-how.

A week — and a mere $200 investment in labour, spokes, and nipples — later, I got the call from The Velo that my wheel was ready for pickup. I never met the man, or even spoke to him, but it didn’t matter. The wheel was nearly ready to roll.

12-speed 2x groupsets.

But the cassette body that I had been using on my Shimano hub was from Shimano’s 1x off-road offerings: the Micro Spline.

The Micro Spline came around to allow for a 10t small cog at the low end and a 51t on the high end. Originally an MTB invention, it trickled into gravel with the 1x GRX 12-speed drivetrains relying on mountain bike cassettes. There are, however, no road cassettes with the Micro Spline interface, and Micro Spline and HG cassette bodies are not cross-compatible.

Ultimately, the solution was to invest in the third and newest type of Shimano cassette body: the HG L2 Freehub.

Frankly, I had never heard of the HG L2 Freehub before this project, as the standard is new and very specific. It was launched with the 12-speed DURA-ACE 9200 groupset and used in the 12-speed wired GRX as well. However, for now, the HG L2 is compatible with only one type of cassette, which, at $410, ultimately becomes the most expensive part of the entire refurbishing process.