Trading more so on its name and reputation these days. Sure, it’s a fortress for the All Blacks but it should have been put on the scrapheap before the 2011 Rugby World Cup for Stadium New Zealand on the waterfront – and in my opinion, again this year for Quay Park or the Wynyard Quarter option. But, let’s leave that aside for a second.
CEO Nick Sautner has done his darndest to push the case of it being a national stadium and has innovated where others have refused to go (including concerts) but everyone (including Sautner) agrees that it needs to be redeveloped at the very least and the more ardent – of which I am one – moved on for something more modern and downtown.
The stadium unfortunately is a representation for how New Zealand approaches its infrastructure – bitsy and without a long-term vision. It would work a lot better as a contained bowl and it isn’t helped by a lack of clear vision at local government level as to the vision for sports arenas in the city – by virtue of the fact it’s not run by Auckland Stadiums. If Eden Park 2.1 ever happens, it’ll bring it in line with comparative stadiums worldwide, but I believe that’s a big if.
Having said all of that – it is a great place to watch rugby, especially when it’s full for an All Blacks test and the extra seating opened up. Then it feels like a real, live stadium. When it’s empty (like for an NPC match), it’s cavernous and ruins the whole affair.
Also not helped by New Zealand’s reputation as snoozy sports fans – although the 2011 Rugby World Cup semi-final was a notable exception and so too the 2015 Cricket World Cup semi-final against South Africa, but otherwise there’s every chance the All Blacks fans will lose the decibel stakes.
9) Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin, New Zealand
Maybe heresy to put this above the self-styled “national stadium” but hey, it’s my list.
It’s not perfect but I genuinely believe this stadium is the best in New Zealand for watching rugby. Small, almost boutique, perfect weather conditions and steeped stands (try and only do the trip once per game if you’re up the top like the broadcasters), while also retaining the quintessential Dunedin chilly air. When it’s full – like for an All Blacks test – it is hard to beat it, even when empty for an NPC fixture, it still works by virtue of being an intimate stadium.
This stadium has been a game changer for Dunedin over the past 15 years and I don’t believe it’s well appreciated enough – unfortunately it could be about to feel the brunt of big brother Christchurch and the incoming Te Kaha Stadium – which will no doubt take away concerts and big All Blacks fixtures away.
An under-rated aspect is just how close you are to the action compared to some of the other grounds in New Zealand; you’re either on top of the action or right alongside it.
The walk from nearby watering hole Emerson’s to the ground on game day is highly recommended.
Codie Taylor leads the All Blacks haka in the Forsyth Barr Stadium, Dunedin. Photo / Photosport
8) Optus Stadium, Perth, Australia and
7) DHL Stadium, Cape Town, South Africa
Lumping these two together because they’re well-made, modern stadiums that show what you can do when you leave history behind and look to the future. Rugby fans might miss Newlands – or Subiaco Oval in Perth’s case – but time marches forward and in the place of those grounds are modern venues that will stand the test of time and create their own memories. No one forgets Jonah Lomu running over Mike Catt just because Newlands is no longer there. History should not be a reason to keep using stadiums.
Both have similar feelings – bowls that wrap around the stadium and feel enclosed, they’re easy to get to and well run and maintained. I was surprised at just how close you felt to the action at Optus Stadium given it doubles as an AFL and cricket venue, something that unfortunately the likes of Marvel Stadium and MCG can’t do, while DHL – viewed from inside at the right angle – gives you a view of gorgeous Table Mountain.
As much as these stadiums do nothing wrong, it would be great to have more character around them (statues, halls of fame etc) to pay tribute to the turfs that have gone before.
6) Aviva Stadium, Dublin, Ireland
It should be acknowledged that the home team’s record plays a part in the success or otherwise of the stadium, and Ireland’s recent success has made Aviva a fortress and the highest ranked stadium built this century on the list, after opening in 2010. Sleek and with a unique wave design to placate the neighbours, it’s big without being overbearing.
Great from the rafters or closer to the action, the Aviva rising as one when their team scores a try is a spine-chilling experience. I watched the All Blacks lose there in 2018 in a non-work capacity and had an absolute blast wrapping myself in the atmosphere as the crowd began to believe they were about to beat the All Blacks for a second time – and first on home soil.
There’s a great walk from the city to the stadium with the locals too, where you can exchange your thoughts on the merits of Peter O’Mahony’s sledge to Sam Cane or offer some insights on what it takes to win a Rugby World Cup knockout match. Like one, at all.
5) Stade de France, Saint-Denis, France
The French have pulled off a rare feat, creating a huge multi-use arena that works for every sport it hosts. A stadium fit for Olympic opening ceremonies, 100m finals, Hamish Kerr jumping high, football World Cup finals, concerts and Rugby World Cup finals (twice), it’s big but feels compact enough at the same time to not feel overbearing and never feels like you’re far away from the turf – even with a bit of space around the sides of the ground. There’s a fine balance with these arenas – Japan has similar grounds that have hosted football, Olympics and rugby, and they can make you feel like you are in a separate postcode from the game in the middle. Stade de France avoids that with the running track hidden under the grandstands.
The French – spurred on by the Top 14 club competition going from strength to strength – have cemented their status as very good rugby supporters in recent years and a Stade de France in full voice is up there with the best in the world.
It’s marked down a point for being a long way from central Paris and accommodation zones. It was going to be two points for being the only ground where I’ve seen a fellow commentator huff the lung lollies and/or vape mid-match, but smoking was banned in stadiums in France in mid-2025 so the next visit should be a bit easier on the lungs.
4) Murrayfield, Edinburgh, Scotland
Piper on the roof. Need I say more? (My editor says yes.)
Murrayfield is perhaps a little dated now and in need of a redevelopment of sorts – feeling a little concrete jungle – but what it lacks in modernity it makes up for in the best pre-match in the rugby world. The aforementioned pre-match piper belting out Flower of Scotland and the crowd this year singing the song spontaneously in the second half of the match against the All Blacks was something to behold. Can’t picture what would have actually happened at the stadium had they won that match.
It’s one of those stadiums that for whatever reason looks cold and feels cold, but the atmosphere outweighs that.
Eleven-minute tram from central Edinburgh to the ground. Say less.
Ardie Savea leads the All Blacks haka ahead of last month’s test against Scotland at Murrayfield. Photo / SmartFrame
3) Allianz Stadium (Twickenham), London, England
An incredible rugby venue and has claims to being in the top two, but it feels like it is now in a holding pattern. It suffers from what I call “the Eden Park problem”, where it is hamstrung by residents, all of whom I’m sure were unaware they were moving into a neighbourhood with a stadium that has been there since 1909.
So there’s the predictable arguments of the number of events it can hold and therefore how much it can expand or develop – a retractable roof would enhance the experience somewhat with some other tweaks. Upgrades for the 2015 World Cup probably didn’t go far enough in retrospect.
On the surface, nothing is wrong – the pubs on the walk into the ground from the train station do a wonderful job of creating an atmosphere within an atmosphere. The stadium bowl itself and turf – as well as media facilities – are world class and there are few better places to watch rugby. But there are negatives: it’s a tough ground to travel in and out of and it also is perhaps now being overshadowed by some of the more modern stadia – requiring a revamp to bring it up to modern standards but keeping its character is a tricky balance. Having spoken to people who know more on the ground recently, it feels like the RFU don’t quite know what to do with it and selling could be an option, if they don’t get the sway of local council to host more events.
It still gets third on this list though because it is a wonderful sporting Colosseum – and there are few more intimidating places to be as a New Zealander when England are successful, with the crowd (boasting what must be the highest ever sporting venue wear rate of gilets and shirts) hoeing into you.
As an aside, it is always a mad paradox at Twickenham where fans are strongly discouraged via the big screen from booing or making noise while a kicker is attempting a shot at goal, but you can jeer or sing at any other point of the game – including the haka (note: I have no problem with how you receive the haka, but the Northern Hemisphere ‘respect the kicker’ nonsense never feels more hypocritical than when Swing Low launches over the haka).
Still fitting of the ‘home of rugby’ tag however, but will it remain that way?
2) Ellis Park, Johannesburg, South Africa
Look up fortresses in the dictionary and Ellis Park should be the definition.
Nothing about this stadium should work in the year 2025 – and yet … it does. It’s not the prettiest or most modern stadium in the world. It’s in a very unsafe area in an unsafe city. As stadiums go, it is dated – although certain areas got an upgrade for the 2010 Fifa World Cup – and without the flourishes of other stadia. And yet, there is something breathtakingly intoxicating about being there – where so many All Blacks teams have played, where the 1995 World Cup final was held. (Side note: in 1995, Ellis Park also hosted the Rolling Stones, Phil Collins and Roxette).
A breathtaking venue in the obvious sense because it’s on the highveld. The steep, imposing stands, the roar of the jets flying over, the sun drenching the stands. You can close your eyes and feel it. I’ve never experienced noise at a sports event like I have at Ellis Park. It’s a 360 degree wall of sound with the Springboks fans – well lubricated by some generous alcohol limits – creating an intimidating, hostile feeling.
From the outside, Ellis Park looks like a Soviet-era compound. Georgina Robinson of the Sydney Morning Herald described it as a “Brutalist bulwark” in 2018. It’s hard to disagree, but it’s part of the charm.
1) The Millennium Stadium (Principality Stadium), Cardiff, Wales
This is everything a rugby stadium should be. Built in time for the 1999 Rugby World Cup (at least the Welsh knew what they were doing unlike Auckland Council), the 74,500-capacity stadium – courtesy of its roof – feels both intimate and expansive and creates a cacophony of sound when the Welsh fans start singing, building an atmosphere whether their side is three or 30 points down.
The roof also creates a disorienting effect in a good way – kind of like going into a darkened cinema and being locked away from the outside world. The Principality locks you into the match once you walk through the gates, it really does seem like there’s nothing else going on in the outside world. At the corners of the retractable roof, you can occasionally get a sliver of the outside world, but otherwise it’s you and the rugby. Turf upgrades over the past decade have also made a major difference.
This stunning place combines all the factors you want in a rugby venue.
Has not always been associated with the best memories for New Zealand fans after what happened in 2007 but deservedly makes number one on the list for being how I’d create a rugby stadium from scratch – roofed, steeped and stacked stands rather than building outwards, all-weather, and close (or in) central city and to transport links. Oh, and hospitable hosts.
While not in the stadium, a visit to Chippy Lane is recommended post-game at least once in your life, although you are taking your life into your own hands.
Notable rugby grounds yet to visit: Stadio Olimpico (Rome), Suncorp Stadium (Brisbane), Estadio Jose Amalfitani (Argentina), Loftus Versfeld (Pretoria) and Kings Park (Durban).