Something New: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
I don’t have any sort of scientific metrics when it comes to picking the “best new watch of the year” or however we’re framing it. It’s vibes all the way. Case in point, the IWC Ingenieur 35mm, one of the stars of the brand’s 2025 release schedule. Now, the steel version is a lovely watch indeed, but it doesn’t hold a candle to the impact the full gold version (Ref. IW324903) had on me. My reaction to that petite chunk of 18K 5N gold was, frankly, unreasonable. But hopefully (for any who have had the chance to check it out up close) relatable. It’s just so gold. The Ingenieur case, for all that is less famous than other Genta designs, is undeniably great, and sings in the period-correct 35mm dimensions, but it’s the solid gold dial with tonally matched hardware and date display that really seals the deal for me.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
Metalem’s dials are so finely done, and the pattern here is just so good. It is the watch that has stolen my heart this year. There’s one thing I would change, though — the center links on the 35mm models are polished, while the more masculine 40mm gold model gets the brushed treatment. If anyone at IWC is reading, I’d like this in ’25, full brushed, and (I dare to dream) proper yellow gold for 2026.
Something Special: Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru
I struggle with the concept of grail watches. For many, it seems to be the most outlying of outliers — that far point on the chart representing both the extreme of inaccessibility and exceptionalism. For me, it’s like saying “Would you rather hang a Rothko or a Rembrandt in the spare bedroom?” — a fun exercise for some, but ultimately pointless. I don’t aspire to own that level of watch. However, drop down from the stratosphere, and that’s where things get fun. One watch that I haven’t been able to get out of my head since I saw it in 2017 is Chopard’s L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru.
Chopard L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru
Specifically, the black-dialed version with baguette diamonds on the bezel. It is a most un-Felix watch. Curvy, classical and with one of the most pleasing diamond bezels I can remember seeing. Not only is Chopard’s L.U.C line of watches amongst the best commercial watchmaking in Switzerland, but the combination of tonneau case and (dare I say it) understated diamonds also makes this the epitome of a “grown-up” watch. Maybe if I ever grow up, it will be mine.
Something Old: Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
When is a vintage watch not a vintage watch? When you can walk into the store and buy it today, essentially unchanged from when it was first released. It’s a slightly disingenuous answer, but it contains a nugget of truth. The Cartier Tank Louis Cartier is perhaps the best example — it’s barely changed since it debuted over 100 years ago. Sure, the movement has changed, and the overall quality of components and watchmaking has improved, but in all the details that matter, it’s the same watch.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
From the proud rectangular silhouette with its softly curved brancards to the Roman numerals and blued hands, a Cartier Tank Louis Cartier is one of the most quintessential expressions of perpetual elegance out there. This alone is enough to love it, but the real reasons why I rate it are that it’s accessible and incredibly versatile. Because the Tank Louis Cartier has such a long production history, it’s entirely possible for collectors at any end of the spectrum to acquire one. It makes a great “first watch” for some of the more recent models, or if you’re looking for the vintage final boss, try getting one of those century-old examples. It also works on anyone; man, woman, young or old — everyone looks good in a Cartier Tank Louis Cartier.