For reasons we’re not quite sure of, there was a time through the 2000s when many chronographs took on a life of being massively oversized, garishly busy and generally pretty distasteful. Perhaps there will eventually be a neoclassical revival of that look, but thankfully, for now, some brands appear to be turning to heritage and historic styles for inspiration. One such brand taking the vintage-inspired route is Lorca, and after hitting the mark with its inaugural Model No.1 GMT, it comes roaring back with its Model No.2 Chronograph. Best of all, we’re welcoming it to our new Time+Tide NYC Studio for all to enjoy!
The Model No.2 is a stunning example of a heritage-inspired, triple-register chronograph done right, with the brand recognising what matters in watches like this. Proportions are key because it doesn’t really matter how sexy it looks; if it’s too big or certain elements don’t match the overall look, it loses its appeal immediately. A closer inspection of the Model No.2 reveals its cohesive design, which makes for the perfect recipe for a classically styled chronograph.
The first thing you notice when you handle the watch is its weight, but not in a bad way. It’s got heft, as any mechanical steel wristwatch should, but it’s balanced and feels right. The 316L stainless steel case measures 37mm in diameter, which feels slightly undersized for a chronograph, but the 38mm rotating bezel adds a touch of bulk to that balanced feel.
At 11.6mm thick, the case is 0.3mm thinner than that of a contemporary Rolex Daytona, albeit without the sapphire crystal, which is double-domed to add vintage flair. The 46mm lug-to-lug stretches the watch well across the wrist without being overwhelming, and again, brings balance to the design.
Considering functionality, there are no compromises with the Model No.2, either. The case offers 100 meters of water resistance, which is respectable given the classic, plunger-style chronograph pushers. Largely, that’s down to the oversized screw-down crown, which I have to say is perfectly suited to this watch. The case even has drilled lugs, which is a relief to see these days. The finishing is pleasant throughout, balancing brushed and polished surfaces to give the Model No.2 a smart yet everyday mix of dressiness and wearability.
This filters through into the dials, too. There are two dial options for the Model No.2 Chronograph, and both are just as characterful as each other, making choosing a challenging task. The first is called the “Golden Gray”, which, at a glance, appears black, but as the light strikes across its sunburst-finished surface, tones of golden brown appear. In typical reverse panda style, the subdials are in bright silver, with linear brushing for a stunning metallic effect that contrasts beautifully with the dial’s dark hues.
Secondly, there’s a sunburst silver version that’s clean and clinical in the best way possible. The radial brushing is broken up against the silver subdials just enough to hide them a little, but the light dancing around the subdials gives it bags of character. The vintage-inspired details of both dials result in a watch that’s brilliantly legible and tidy-looking, with elements such as the ultra-thin applied hour markers and tiny applied chrome dots at 3, 6, and 9 that lean well into the vintage look, while avoiding the gimmickry of fauxtina.
Underneath the dial sits the manually-wound Sellita SW510 M chronograph movement, which, being a cam-actuated chronograph calibre that’s just 7mm thick, is the predominant reason behind the Model No.2’s juicy proportions. The lack of a winding rotor allows for an overall slimmer profile, but additionally, adds some realism to the vintage characteristics of the watch.
It’s nice to know that, although it hides beneath a closed stainless steel caseback, the movement is decorated with gold engraving and côtes de Genève finishing. Additionally, it’s also good to know that the Swiss-made movement offers a generous 63-hour power reserve and an accuracy of ±5 sec/day, beating at 28,800 Vph. While it may lack the pizzazz of a column-wheel actuation, the SW510M is a solid alternative that suits the Model No. 2 just fine.
Completing the list of vintage-inspired elements is a gorgeously supple beads-of-rice bracelet finished in brushed stainless steel. It’s slightly wider than you’d expect, but it suits the watch well, and tapers down towards the folding clasp perfectly. Not only can links be removed for adjustability, but the clasp also features a hidden micro-adjustment system that offers additional room for a perfect fit. As I mentioned, the case’s lugs are drilled, allowing for the bracelet to be easily swapped out for one of Lorca’s delicious calfskin, deerskin or suede options.
Lorca Model No. 2 Chronograph pricing & availability
The Lorca MOdel No.2 Chronograph is available via the Time+Tide Shop online, or exclusively in person at the Time+Tide Watch Discovery Studio in New York City. Price: US$2,750
Brand
Lorca
Model
MODEL No.2 Chronograph
Case Dimensions
37mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) x 46mm (LTL)
Case Material
316L stainless steel
Water Resistance
100 meters
Crystal(s)
Double-domed sapphire
Dial
Golden Gray/Silver
Lug Width
20mm
Bracelet
Stainless steel beads-of-rice, folding clasp
Movement
Sellita SW510 M, manually-wound
Power Reserve
63 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph
Availability
From the Time+Tide Shop
Price
US$2,750