It can be pretty remarkable how a change in strap or bracelet can dramatically change the look and feel of a watch. While the bracelet-clad Santos de Cartier has been the more mainstream choice for a Cartier watch, the Santos-Dumont is closest in design to the original watch that Cartier created for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1904. The most recent iteration of the Santos-Dumont has been a primarily alligator strap-focused timepiece, emphasising the dressy and elegant nature of the watch. For the mechanical movement purists, options were somewhat limited, with only the Extra Large size and the skeletonised Large models featuring a micro-rotor movement. For Watches and Wonders 2026, Cartier unveils a slew of new Large Model Santos-Dumont models, updated with flexible metal bracelets, manually wound mechanical movements, and a stone dial reference.
The Dial
Part of the big news for these new Santos-Dumont models is one of the dial options. One of the gold models and the platinum model features a normal Cartier silvered satin dial with sunray effect, Roman numerals, and blued hands. But Cartier is keeping up with the latest trend in dressy timepieces, as one of the 18k yellow gold models has an obsidian stone dial. The volcanic stone is sourced from Mexico, and the iridescent glow comes from tiny air bubbles trapped in the material, making each dial unique. The obsidian dial version gets gold hour markers and hands, matching the gold case and bracelet. The silver-dialled models have black printed Roman numerals and blued steel hands. The silver dial models have a framed square in the centre, breaking up what would otherwise be an expansive sunray silver dial. One of my favourite details on Cartier watches with printed Roman numerals is the seven o’clock numeral, as it holds the secret signature of the brand. The obsidian dial is missing the centre frame and the hidden Cartier logo as the dark dial shrinks the visual mass, and the solid applied indices don’t allow for the hidden logo.
The Case
For this new Santos-Dumont range, Cartier is highlighting two models in 18k yellow gold and one in platinum. The case measures 43.5mm x 31.4mm, 7.3mm thick, and has 3 bars of water resistance. The case features a vertically brushed finish with a polished chamfer edge, and a polished bezel with visible screws. The crown features the iconic Cartier cabochon, with the gold models featuring a blue sapphire cabochon, while the platinum version gets a red ruby cabochon. The solid case back matches the case material and is engraved with the Cartier logo, water resistance rating, and serial number. Cartier also mentions in the press release that there are two other gold models and a gold and steel model serving as refreshed models for the existing range.
The Bracelet
The new metal bracelets are inspired by the made-to-measure metal bracelets Cartier created for clients in the 1920’s. The bracelet has a silky-smooth feel against the skin and remains highly flexible due to its construction. Each link of the 15-row mesh bracelet measures 1.15mm thick, with 394 links in total used to construct the bracelet. The bracelet is machined, finished, and assembled at Cartier’s manufacturing facilities. The bracelet is attached to the case via conventional spring bars, and is secured on the wrist with a butterfly deployant clasp. The bracelet matches the case material, meaning these watches will be surprisingly hefty despite their compact dimensions.
The Movement
These updated Cartier Santos-Dumont models utilise the Cartier Calibre 430 MC. Based on the Piaget 430, this manually wound movement is decorated with a Cartier logo motif, displays the hours and minutes, operates at 21,600 Vph, has 18 jewels and a 36-hour power reserve. At svelte 2.1mm thick, the 430 MC is the right choice to keep the case nice and thin, which is exactly what you want in an elegant precious metal timepiece.
The Verdict
I’m sure I’m not alone in not always being a fan of leather straps. For many watches, they are the appropriate choice, and are super comfortable once they are broken in. However, especially in warmer months, leather straps can get pretty funky very quickly, and that also results in a less-than-pleasant wearing experience. On the flip side, a metal bracelet with large links on a dress watch can also make for an odd dichotomy. Having a thin and flexible metal bracelet solves the durability issue of leather while still providing the elevated and elegant wearing experience one would most likely want from a dressy, precious metal Cartier watch. I think these new Cartier Santos-Dumont models will be a huge hit for those who are in the market for such a timepiece. I also think they could hit mainstream success if Cartier develops this bracelet design in stainless steel down the road.
Cartier Santos-Dumont with Bracelet pricing and availability
The new Cartier Santos-Dumont models are part of Cartier’s collection of new releases at Watches and Wonders 2026. Unveiled April 14th, 2026, pricing for these models is TBC.
Brand
Cartier
Model
Santos-Dumont
Case Dimensions
31.4mm (W) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL)
Case Material
Platinum or 18k Yellow Gold
Water Resistance
30 meters
Crystal(s)
Sapphire front
Dial
Silver Sunray dial or Black Obsidian Stone (18k Yellow gold only)
Bracelet
15 row metal bracelet matching the case material. Butterfly deployant clasp
Movement
430 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual winding
Power Reserve
38 hours
Functions
Hours and Minutes
Availability
Now
Price
TBC