Necia Wilden
Sep 6, 2026 – 5.00am
It’s 11.30pm on a Wednesday at the Melbourne restaurant Gimlet and a small fire has just broken out at the table next to ours. As the flames rise, diners at surrounding tables pause their lively chatter and turn their heads as one to watch.
No need to panic, though. For this is a controlled fire, one of up to a dozen lit at Andrew McConnell’s flagship dining room late at night, every night, by white-jacketed waitstaff flambéing an extravagant dessert on tableside trolleys.
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