Paid or unpaid, when a celebrity or famous figure dons a wristwatch, it inevitably brings more attention to the design. Of course, when a watch organically finds itself on the wrist of a well-known individual, it hits much harder knowing that the person is not just wearing it – they chose it. That is why the images of beloved actor Steve McQueen wearing a 417 ES chronograph have brought so much attention and love to Hanhart’s signature chronograph. And today, the brand finally launches its first official Steve McQueen Limited Edition: the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1.
The case
Dimensionally speaking, it is very faithful to the original 417 ES that McQueen himself wore – retaining the very same 39mm diameter, and measuring 13.3mm thick and 46mm across the wrist lug-to-lug. At this more compact size, it is even 100 metres water-resistant. These proportions are very much in line with chronographs of the era, and certainly closely match the original watch. In terms of fit and sizing today, these dimensions give the watch presence without being overwhelming for most wrists. Whether my smaller 6.5-inch wrist (not pictured) or more average to even larger-sized wrists, this watch will fit well and look great, in my opinion.
The majority of the case is satin-brushed, as a watch with tool-watch origins should be, but there are mirror-polished accents that can be found on edges like the bevels of the lugs to add a hint of elegance and flair. The bezel is fluted to not only add a bit of visual flair, but also to make the bi-directional bezel with a signature red insert easier to grip and manipulate. You will also notice there are no clicks to the bezel; it rotates smoothly and works well despite not having the click that some find very satisfying.
Lastly, you have Hanhart’s signature red-coloured HyCeram® chronograph reset pusher – a distinct visual element Hanhart and McQueen’s personal 417 ES are well known for. The origin story behind the red pusher is very interesting. “Legend has it that a pilot’s wife painted the pusher of his Hanhart with red nail polish,” Hanhart explains. “That way, he would think of her every time he glanced at the watch and return home safely. Historically, the signal colour also served a practical purpose: it was meant to prevent pilots from accidentally actuating the pusher and resetting the measured time. The red pusher thus became a distinctive feature of Hanhart chronographs.”
The dial
The black dial will look familiar, as it is very common for Hanhart 417 ES watches to have a matte black dial. However, there are some distinct visual cues that make this limited edition a bit more special. The first is the old Hanhart logo, the period-correct logo McQueen would have seen on his personal 417 ES watch. The second, at the 6 o’clock position, is a tasteful incorporation of Steve McQueen’s signature.
To give the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 a more vintage feel, the brand has opted for the Super-LumiNova used throughout the dial to be executed in the “Old Radium” colour to offer the patina aesthetic many vintage chronographs are coveted for. Hanhart, in its attention to detail, has even gone the extra mile to bend the central minutes hand so that it curves down towards the minutes track – countering the parallax effect and making the watch even more legible.
The strap
The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 would not feel complete without a bund strap. The 417 ES, like many vintage chronographs, was worn on a bund strap, and we all know famous figures like Paul Newman and Nina Rindt were fond of wearing their chronographs on a bund as well. Of course, the bund strap was an innovation for pilots and race car drivers that offered a layer of protection between the metal case and the wearer’s skin in the event of a crash or explosion, to prevent the skin from making contact with hot metal.
These days, however, the bund strap is more of a strap aesthetic that requires the wearer to have a sense of coolness and confidence to ensure the watch feels less like cosplay on the wrist and more like a statement of fashion and visual difference. Though some in the modern era do not find themselves enamoured with a bund strap, I certainly enjoy wearing one and think others who do not are missing out on the fun and comfort of one. The bund strap included with the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is a handsome dark brown Shell Cordovan leather bund strap that is fastened to the wrist via a pin buckle with the brand’s historical logo. And don’t forget the bund pad is optional. I say leave it on, but you can wear the watch on just the leather strap without the bund pad should you wish.
The movement
Inside and exhibited within the Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is the hand-wound Sellita AMT5100 M with 58 hours of power reserve. AMT, the premium arm of Sellita, makes excellent calibres that are robust and high-performing yet do not inflate the price of a watch too terribly. The AMT5100 M is regulated within 0/+8 seconds per day, and it’s also notably a flyback chronograph movement, which means you can reset the chronograph without stopping it first – an action that could break a standard chronograph movement and an element that makes the red pusher more of a historical nod than something with a functional purpose for this watch.
The verdict
With a retail price of €2,890 (incl. 19% VAT), the 300-piece Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 only adds approximately a €500 premium compared to its regular production equivalent. Yes, compared to the regular production models, the case size and calibre are exactly the same. The old Hanhart logo on the dial, crown, and buckle for the strap can also be found on the regular production models like the 417 ES Heritage Flyback. But with this limited edition, you have the official McQueen seal of approval with Steve’s signature on the dial, and even a warranty card that is fashioned in a manner that replicates McQueen’s 1964 driving licence – signed by his grandsons Chase and Madison. In the special box, you even have some red nail polish as a nod to the red pusher and red insert signature found on the Hanhart watch. If I could own any 417 ES, it would be this Steve McQueen Limited Edition.
Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 pricing and availability
The Hanhart 417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1 is available now for purchase, limited to 300 pieces. Price: €2,890 (incl. 19% VAT)
Brand
Hanhart
Model
417 ES Steve McQueen Limited Edition No. 1
Case Dimensions
39mm (D) x 13.3mm (T) x 46mm (LTL)
Case Material
Stainless steel
Water Resistance
100 metres, screw-down crown
Crystal(s)
Box-domed sapphire front
Dial
Black
Lug Width
20mm
Strap
Dark brown bund strap, steel pin buckle
Movement
Sellita AMT 5100 M, manual winding
Power Reserve
58 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, flyback chronograph
Availability
Now, limited to 300 pcs.
Price
€2,890 (incl. 19% VAT)