As the mysterious interstellar comet 3I/ATLAS (that’s if, indeed, it is a comet…) continues its trajectory around our Sun and leaves our solar system after kicking up a whirlwind of interest, another out-of-this-world Comet has just dropped a little closer to home. Zelos, a Singaporean brand that started life on Kickstarter, has gone on to produce a varied range of watches in recent years, with a particular penchant for special, natural dials. Their latest creation, the Comet 39 collection, is based around a slim, contemporary pilot’s watch that takes those incredible dials to the next level.
The Comet 39 lineup includes three launch specials and two limited editions, all featuring unique dial executions that push well beyond the ordinary. Dial finishes aside, the Comet 39 takes the clean legibility and heritage charm of a vintage pilot’s watch and shrinks them into a compact, slimline package that is both wearable and quite unique.
The case
The Comet 39’s case is a fairly traditional design, with some modern quirks. First of all, the proportions are right where we want them: 39mm in diameter, 7.6mm thick without the crystal, and a lug-to-lug coming in at a neat 45mm. I feel like I’m saying this about a lot of watches lately, but brands are getting it right more and more: the Comet is right in that golden spot of wearability, where thickness is considered and overall heft isn’t put first as a typical signal of quality.
The traditional silhouette of the stainless steel case is politely interrupted by small faceted angles, which feature carefully brushed and polished finishes. The effect is cool because it separates the Comet from the crowd, especially with details like the more angular pilot’s crown on the side. The case offers 50 meters of water resistance in both stainless steel and tantalum versions. Yes, that’s right, one of the special limited-edition models is made from tantalum, which is notoriously challenging to machine and finish, but Zelos has pushed the limits to get it right for the Comet 39.
The dials
Zelos is well known for its playful approach to dial finishes, and the Comet 39 is no different. There are five variations to begin with, with three of the stainless steel models featuring natural stone dials such as meteorite and guilloché mother-of-pearl, and all with additional blue PVD-coated finishes to shake things up even more. There’s another version with a forged carbon and tiger’s eye dial, with matching orange lume.
Then there are the two limited-edition models. The stainless steel version features a very different dial; it’s called the “51 Limited Edition” and has utilised material from the exhaust cowling of a crashed P-51 Mustang WWII fighter plane. Only 25 of these will exist, primarily because of the limited amount of available material. Finally, the special tantalum edition features a guilloché crystallised titanium dial, again encompassing that blue PVD coating for some added flair.
Functionally, the dials are very much pilot’s dials; they feature a combination of Arabic and baton hour markers, lovingly polished, applied, and filled with luminescent material. There’s a distinctive small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, each with its own miniature dial finish rather than a continuation of the main dial plate. And finally, the dial is completed with skeletonised, luminescent hands that ensure usability continues well into the night.
The bracelet
The watch sits on the wrist beautifully, thanks to the tapered stainless steel 5-link bracelet. It’s thin, malleable, and feels luxurious, with finely brushed and polished links that strike an excellent middle ground between luxury and tool-like.
The bracelet does have a hint of “Land-Dweller” about it, as it continues that angular aesthetic, but it looks great for it. It’s secured with a folding clasp and features quick-release spring bars for easy swaps. The tantalum version understandably arrives on a leather strap with a titanium pin buckle and blue contrast stitching.
The movement
To give the Comet 39 some manual, tactile character, Zelos has opted for a hand-wound ETA/Peseux 7001 movement to power the watch. This movement been in production since 1971 in its earliest guise, and has undergone some development and improvements since. The Swiss calibre features 17 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve, and this version has received elements such as blued screws, a guilloché-finished barrel, and completely redesigned bridges that offer a more modern aesthetic when the movement is viewed through the exhibition caseback. This isn’t your average 7001.
The verdict
The Comet 39 collection is an exercise in showcasing what Zelos is capable of, not only from a dial finishing perspective, but also from a case design point of view, too. The dials are indeed insanely cool, with significant details that you can’t ignore and make choosing one difficult, but the overall case design is well executed, offering a modern, size-considered take on pilot’s watches, which, in my opinion, is a future-proof design. The market is slowly leaning towards more watches that are more reserved when it comes to wrist presence, and the Comet 39 shows you don’t have to be huge to grab all the attention.
Zelos Comet 39 pricing and availability
The Zelos Comet 39 collection is available now directly from Zelos, with the limited edition “51” and tantalum variations limited to 25 and 50 pieces, respectively. Price: starting from US$1,699
Brand
Zelos
Model
Comet 39
Case Dimensions
39mm (D) x 7.6mm (T) x 45mm (LTL)
Case Material
Stainless steel
Tantalum
Water Resistance
50 meters
Crystal(s)
Sapphire front and back
Dial
Guilloché mother-of-pearl
Meteorite
Tiger’s eye
P-51 Mustang exhaust cowling
Guilloché crystallised titanium
Lug Width
20mm
Bracelet
5-link stainless steel with folding clasp
Leather strap with titanium pin buckle (tantalum LE only)
Movement
ETA/Peseux 7001, manually-wound
Power Reserve
42 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds
Availability
Available now, P-51 edition limited to 25 pieces, tantalum edition limited to 50 pieces
Price
Guilloché mother-of-pearl – US$1,699
Meteorite – US$1,799
Vulcan (tiger’s eye) – US$1,699
P-51 Mustang dial – US$1,999
Tantalum – $2,499