Brassée de Lavande automaton, Van Cleef & Arpels
One of the most striking features of Brassée de Lavande is the extraordinary craftsmanship that brings the automaton to life. “We don’t just use every craft in the world. We choose the ones that help tell the story,” says Bernard. Although the métiers d’art ateliers are between Saint Croix, Paris and Geneva, “no synchronisation is really needed because we sing the same melody and the same song.” The butterfly’s wings are crafted using plique-à-jour enamel technique, a delicate process in which translucent enamel is applied to an openwork gold structure, allowing light to pass through and creating the effect of stained glass.
The lavender sprigs of the Brassée de Lavande automaton are entirely shaped by hand before being lacquered with an airbrush. This savoir-faire involves numerous steps, from mixing the pigments to applying the material to the surface, sanding the different layers and, finally, polishing. In the last stage, a glaze completes the color work, adding a touch of brilliance to the ensemble. “We push the limits of these crafts, creating something that’s never been done before. But we do it not to show off, but to serve the story we want to tell,” shares Bernard.
But for Bernard, the most important element of Brassée de Lavande is the emotional connection it creates. “Through the story, we translate the mechanism into emotion.” The automaton’s animation is paired with the gentle sounds of a carillon, which begins when the butterfly emerges and fades when the flower closes again. These notes “add another dimension to the piece. When you see the object, it’s like a 3D object. But when you add movement, it becomes the fourth dimension, and when you add music, it becomes the fifth dimension,” he explains. The integration of sound, movement and time creates a powerful sensory experience. “The animation is not just about the opening of the flower, it’s about the moment when it starts and when it closes. These moments are made special by the music that accompanies them,” reveals Bernard.