When it comes to well-ageing skincare heroes, retinol, vitamin C, and peptides typically take centre stage. Scientists, however, have recently turned their gaze to a hidden gem — pterostilbene — an antioxidant said to give these classics some serious competition. Early studies have even shown visible results in as little as 28 days, outperforming many of today’s most trusted actives. But what makes it the next best thing in skincare to look out for, and is it truly that effective or just another addition to the clutter?
“Often hailed as the next-generation resveratrol, it is gaining popularity for its impressive anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, and skin-protective properties,” explains Dr Parul Thakur, specialist dermatologist and co-founder, Athena Dermatology Clinic, Dubai. “It is a natural polyphenol found in blueberries, grapes, and the heartwood of certain trees. It belongs to the stilbene family — the same group as resveratrol.”
The key difference between pterostilbene and resveratrol, however, lies in their structure, where pterostilbene is more lipophilic, allowing for easier absorption and utilisation by the body and skin. “Scientifically, it’s known for being a potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-glycation compound, offering protection against cellular damage, oxidative stress, and collagen breakdown,” says the expert.
The skin benefits of pterostilbene
According to Dr Asima Mir, Aesthetic Specialist at Orskin, Dubai, long-term UV exposure depletes the skin’s natural antioxidants, accelerating photoaging. To counter this, external sources of antioxidants become essential, and stilbenes such as pterostilbene and resveratrol have emerged as skin saviours, celebrated for their properties.
Pterostilbene helps reduce the visible signs of skin ageing by protecting collagen and elastin to keep skin firm, evens out tone for a brighter complexion, and prevents uneven pigmentation. “It also activates sirtuins, the proteins linked to cellular repair and youthfulness,” adds Dr Thakur. “Its lipid-soluble nature allows it to penetrate deeper into the skin, enhancing effectiveness.”
Pterostilbene versus resveratrol
Pterostilbene is resveratrol’s more evolved sibling — it shares the same antioxidant, packaged in a smarter and more effective design. Dr Thakur notes that pterostilbene is considered a more bioavailable and stable version of resveratrol due to a subtle but significant difference in its chemical structure.
“While resveratrol has three hydroxyl (–OH) groups, pterostilbene replaces two of them with methoxy (–OCH₃) groups. This small change makes the molecule more lipophilic or fat-soluble, which greatly enhances its stability and ability to penetrate the skin.”
Due to this, pterostilbene is far less prone to oxidation or breakdown when exposed to air, light, or heat — a common limitation of resveratrol — and can pass more efficiently through the skin’s lipid barrier, allowing deeper absorption and longer-lasting antioxidant activity. Studies have shown that pterostilbene’s bioavailability can be up to four times higher than resveratrol’s, meaning the body and skin can utilise it more effectively.
Who’s it for?
“Any skin type will benefit from a pterostilbene emulsion,” says Dr Mir. “It is a potential natural ingredient used in cutting-edge skincare formulas, offering major skincare benefits in reducing the signs of ageing, protecting against environmental damage, and enhancing overall skin tone and texture.”