One flick through the pages of Time+Tide and you’ll find some of the wildest releases the watch world has to offer: crazy dials, unconventional case designs and offbeat movements, but in reality, when you just need a watch that screams sophistication without shouting, and without breaking the bank, where do you go? Well, Tissot’s Gentleman collection has been with us for a while, and its subtle blend of easygoing style and everyday wearability has made it a go-to for needs like those. And now, the brand just gave the Gentleman an understated refresh with the new Tissot Gentleman 38mm.
As Tissot puts it in their new advertising campaign for the Gentleman: “even in chaos, a gentleman chooses patience.” This, I suppose, when coming from a very well-spoken wristwatch, could be considered rather abstract; however, in the context of the Tissot 38mm Gentleman, it makes sense. If you need a watch that gives you a bit of quiet confidence and doesn’t attract too much attention, you probably need something that blends in a little, and the unassuming aesthetic of the Gentleman fits that perfectly.
The case
First of all, the case dimensions have been changed, only slightly, but enough, from 40mm in diameter to 38mm, and the thickness is largely unchanged, increasing by a hair from 11.5mm in thickness to 11.53mm. The case surfaces are still just as well finished as before, but with edges appearing a little crisper and the bezel a little thinner, and overall, the subtle adjustments have made for a more contemporary, refined look and feel.
Functionally, up front, there’s a domed sapphire crystal which is treated to an anti-reflective coating to aid legibility, a screw-down exhibition case back sits at the rear, and thankfully, the new case retains the 40mm model’s 100 metres of water resistance, meaning it’s perfect for everyday wear and tear, no matter what you get up to.
The dial
Underneath the crystal sit four contrasting dial options, each with the same layout but with its own subtle character differences. The surface finish is not your typical sunburst pattern; it’s what Tissot is calling “pyramidal”, in that the almost-sector dial lines of the older model are replaced by shifts in brushing angle to reflect the light differently over four quadrants. Again, to use the word subtle once more, it’s a subtle detail which is somewhat unusual, and looks great.
The dial layout is relatively unchanged from before, aside from the removal of additional dial text, some spacing changes, and straight baton hour markers, instead of the tapered ones from before. The polished, faceted dagger hands are still there, and these all make for a perfectly readable dial, even if there is a slightly large, framed date window at 3 o’clock. This is also supported later on in the day, with spatterings of Super-LumiNova where it matters, keeping things lit up and legible in the dark.
The bracelet
Complementing the watch is a three-link stainless steel bracelet, which features brushed outer links and polished centre links for a discreet touch of sophistication. These are easily swapped out with quick-release spring bars, allowing additional Tissot straps and bracelets to be attached, such as the Milanese mesh bracelet or a wide range of supple leather or rubber straps. Given how much the watch blends into its natural environment, I would say it lends itself well to some customisation, so it’s good to see this has been taken care of.
The movement
Inside the watch beats Tissot’s ever-present and hardworking Powermatic 80 movement, as seen in the recent Visodate release, alongside other models, such as the bestselling PRX. Rugged and reliable, the Powermatic 80 ticks away at 21,600 vph, resulting in that substantial 80-hour power reserve it’s become well known for. Other features, such as the Nivachron balance spring, ensure relatively high accuracy while protecting against magnetism and the shocks of everyday use.
The verdict
Aesthetically speaking, it goes without saying that the Tissot Gentleman has visual similarities to a longstanding crown jewel of a major brand’s catalogue. But, this new release does have a serious point of distinction in that it is presented in a 38mm middle ground size that splits the difference, so to speak, between common sizes such as 36mm and 41mm. A 38mm diameter is considered by many to be a Goldilocks size for the modern wrist. Package that together with an attractive US$850 price tag, and an 80-hour automatic movement that offers longer endurance its peers would provide, and you have a debut that may not be reinventing the wheel, but offers the wheel a very wide audience is looking for.
Tissot Gentleman 38mm pricing and availability
The Tissot Gentleman 38mm is available now from Tissot retailers. Price: AU$1,240/US$850
Brand
Tissot
Model
Gentleman 38mm
Reference
T165.807.11.031.00 – Silver
T165.807.11.041.00 – Blue
T165.807.11.051.00 – Black
T165.807.11.0 91.00 – Green
Case Dimensions
38mm (D) x 11.53mm (T)
Case Material
316L stainless steel
Water Resistance
100 metres
Crystal(s)
Domed sapphire, anti-reflective
Dial
Silver, blue, black, green pyramidal sunburst
Lug Width
20mm
Bracelet
Stainless steel 3-link bracelet
Movement
Powermatic 80, automatic
Power Reserve
80 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability
Available now
Price
AU$1,240/US$850