ArtyA has never been a brand to take the simple route, and the new Complexity sticks to this mindset. A sapphire-cased, double incline tourbillon that features an indispensable differential that ensures each of these tourbillons receives constant force, all while wrapping around your wrist in a way only an ArtyA can. The organic shape of this watch is striking at first, but the two domes serve a purpose, and the overall triple concave shape grabs your attention straight away and helps to draw the eye to the truly captivating elements of this watch. This is not like anything you will have seen before, and the lengths that the brand has gone to here in terms of conception, design, and execution are truly commendable. Let’s dive into the details here, discover how sapphire can be sculpted like this, and what it means to have two tourbillons tilted in a watch at once.
The case
As we have just mentioned, ArtyA are somewhat specialists when it comes to producing cases out of sapphire crystal, and this latest version goes even further to prove this. The intricate shape of this watch speaks to its name, with multiple curves, domes and swooping edges that catch the light as it passes through and help to highlight the unique movement inside. Measuring 42mm across and 48mm end-to-end with a thickness of 13mm it is not off-the-charts in terms of its proportions, making it surprisingly wearable for a shaped watch. Its wearability is also thanks to its concave shape that hugs the wrist and also allows the two domes to stand out with even more prominence.
Crafted entirely out of sapphire, this is not an easy thing to produce, and this is where ArtyA’s expertise really comes into play. To not only form the original shape, but to fine-tune and polish it just enough so the light passes through it just right, but the sharp edges are not lost. Special diamond tools need to be used for this stage, given how incredibly hard sapphire crystal is. Not only is ArtyA able to produce these incredible shapes out of sapphire, but they can generate incredible, rich colours at the same time. So you can have this watch in perfectly clear transparent sapphire, or pigeon blood red if you want an even more impactful watch on the wrist.
The movement
Next, we have to talk about this movement. Designed in collaboration with Purtec this shaped calibre fills every corner that the sapphire case allows it to, while making the most of the voids created by the two domes that act as magnifiers for the inclined tourbillons. And it is this pair of inclined tourbillons that are the star of this show. While Breguet gave us the original rotating escapement back in 1801, its application to wristwatches never made much sense because of how and where wristwatches are worn. However, by doubling the normal number of tourbillons in a watch, and tilting them off the centre axis, ArtyA is able to counteract all possible angles simultaneously as their axis trace a conical path. To add to this level of complexity, the angles of the balance, the cage, and the pallet fork are all different and with both toubillons tilted differently, gravity is never pulling on two different components in the same way at the same time.
To ensure that these two satellite-esque tourbillons are able to carry out their function properly, they require perfectly level torque delivery. To ensure this, there is an ingenious differential that sits between the main barrel and both tourbillons. This not only guarantees that both escapements get the same amount of power, but no matter how much power reserve is in the barrel, the level of torque remains the same as well. This is a key ability in honing in on the chronometric performance of a watch.
The dial
When looking at this watch on the wrist, you will instantly notice that it does not have a standard dial. With two big cutouts at 12 and 6 for the tourbillons, it also fills the shape of this case. There are two dial options that are available for both case options, and to me, the main highlight is the Griffe dial that has an engraved motif that appears to be exploding from its centre. This 3D effect is achieved by engraving into the rhodium black-treated surface. It is then amplified by these unique applied markers that go from thick to thin as they reach the centre of the dial. You also have sharp dauphine hands, as this is really the only style that could match the energy of the rest of this dial.
You also have a matte that has been created through bead blasting that gives off a more muted aesthetic, allowing those two tourbillons to take all the attention. When in the transparent case, both of these dials are silver in colour, and when in the pigeon blood case, the dials are a darker anthracite.
The strap
This watch is only available on a rubber strap that is colour-matched to the dial and movement finish, meaning you get a light and unobtrusive strap that doesn’t take away from the glittering effect of the case and this incredible movement.
The verdict
When it comes to bringing something new to the market, it can be difficult to really stand out when there are so many different styles and brands today. But ArtyA has always managed to maintain a level of visual impact that very few brands can replicate. And while this may be distracting for some, once you are able to get over this initial visual onslaught, you can get down and better appreciate the technicality that is going on underneath. Having just one tourbillon is impressive, and even more so if you are rotating it on an incline, but when you have two, you are making everything so much harder on yourselves as a producer, all in the name of better chronometry.
The Complexity from ArtyA marries both striking visuals with a movement concept that has never been seen before. There is a lot going on here, and it is all being done in true ArtyA fashion as they bring everything to the table all at once.
The ArtyA Complexity pricing and availability
The ArtyA Complexity is available to order now through the brand and each one will be made to order. Price: CHF 190,000 (clear sapphire), CHF 220,000 (pigeon blood sapphire).Â
Brand
ArtyA
Model
Complexity
Case Dimensions
42mm (D) x 13mm (T) x 48mm (LTL)
Case Material
Sapphire
Crystal(s)
Sapphire front and back
Dial
Silver or anthracite
Strap
Dial matching rubber, deployant clasp
Movement
Complexity-01, manufacture, manual wind
Power Reserve
50 hours
Functions
Hours, minutes, double incline tourbillon
Availability
Made to order
Price
CHF 190,000 (clear sapphire)
CHF 220,000 (pigeon blood sapphire)