{"id":950313,"date":"2026-11-02T21:54:16","date_gmt":"2026-11-02T21:54:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/950313\/"},"modified":"2026-11-02T21:54:16","modified_gmt":"2026-11-02T21:54:16","slug":"neri-oxman-experiments-with-fabric-pigment-created-by-bacteria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/950313\/","title":{"rendered":"Neri Oxman experiments with fabric pigment created by bacteria"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Designer <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/tag\/neri-oxman\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Neri Oxman<\/a> has created a fabric dyeing concept where a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/tag\/bacteria\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">bacterial<\/a> solution is sprayed onto a 3D-knitted silk textile and left to grow a living culture producing faded indigo and pink pigments.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The project, called Vigils, was developed by the designer\u2019s studio, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.oxman.com\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Oxman<\/a>, for designers, artists and collaborators to \u201ccreate new forms of material and aesthetic expression\u201d.<\/p>\n<p><img aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-label=\"Open image in gallery: Oxman Vigils\" data-article-lightbox-trigger=\"\" data-bs-target=\"#article-lightbox\" data-bs-toggle=\"modal\" data-gallery-slider-index=\"1\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"741\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/oxman-vigils-fabric-dying_dezeen_2364_col_17-300x217.jpg\" alt=\"Oxman Vigils\" class=\"wp-image-2380324 content-image--column article-lightbox-trigger\"  \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Tussah silk thread within the fabric is coated with \u201cbacterially sensitive chemicals\u201d, which act as \u201ca bioreactor\u201d once mixed with the spray.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The fabric then sits for 24 hours, during which the solution and chemicals begin to interact and eventually produce a living bacterial culture. This organism, \u201cnumbering in the billions of cells\u201d, spreads across the fabric, leaving amino acids in its wake, which colour the textile.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For the process, the Oxman lab created a spray solution containing the BL21 strain of Escherichia coli (E. coli), a strain commonly used in biotechnology and synthetic biology research, and sprayed it onto a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/tag\/silk\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">silk<\/a> fabric.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Its growth pattern is directed by \u201cwhere and how densely the designer directed the culture to grow\u201d via the spray, according to the team.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-label=\"Open image in gallery: Bacteria pigment\" data-article-lightbox-trigger=\"\" data-bs-target=\"#article-lightbox\" data-bs-toggle=\"modal\" data-gallery-slider-index=\"2\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/oxman-vigils-fabric-dying_dezeen_2364_col_8-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Bacteria pigment\" class=\"wp-image-2380333 content-image--column article-lightbox-trigger\"  \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The fabric is then washed and dried, removing the bacteria, but the pigment remains. <\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cThe microorganisms respond to signals associated with the textile substrate, making biological activity an active component of the material process,\u201d said the team. \u201cVigils is a research-driven exploration of biological textile colouration.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-label=\"Open image in gallery: Neri Oxman fabric\" data-article-lightbox-trigger=\"\" data-bs-target=\"#article-lightbox\" data-bs-toggle=\"modal\" data-gallery-slider-index=\"3\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/oxman-vigils-fabric-dying_dezeen_2364_col_3-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Neri Oxman fabric\" class=\"wp-image-2380338 content-image--column article-lightbox-trigger\"  \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cThe project is intended to investigate the interaction between synthetic biology and material systems rather than to represent a fully optimised industrial dyeing process.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The studio created a series of four capes to demonstrate the technique. They display the variations in the muted colours and patterns created by the bacteria.<\/p>\n<p><img aria-haspopup=\"dialog\" aria-label=\"Open image in gallery: Bacteria pigment\" data-article-lightbox-trigger=\"\" data-bs-target=\"#article-lightbox\" data-bs-toggle=\"modal\" data-gallery-slider-index=\"4\" role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/11\/oxman-vigils-fabric-dying_dezeen_2364_col_7-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Bacteria pigment\" class=\"wp-image-2380334 content-image--column article-lightbox-trigger\"  \/><\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The studio is presenting the process as a possible alternative to \u201cresource-intensive\u201d industrial dyeing processes.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">\u201cThe result is not simply an alternative way of applying color: the biological process becomes part of the design itself, producing patterns and variations that could not be achieved through conventional dyeing and making each textile an expression of the process that created it,\u201d said Oxman.<\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It has not undergone extensive Life Cycle Assessment, which measures its environmental outputs, and is still in the prototype stage. <\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Neri Oxman opened <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2024\/09\/30\/neri-oxman-new-york-studio-foster-partners\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">a New York studio in Midtown Manhattan<\/a> in 2024 and <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2024\/10\/01\/neri-oxman-conceptual-skyscraper-eden-ai\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">unveiled an AI-designed skyscraper to demonstrate its computational abilities at the time<\/a>. <\/p>\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The designer is known for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2021\/11\/19\/dezeen-15-live-interview-neri-oxman-nature-humanity\/\" type=\"link\" id=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2021\/11\/19\/dezeen-15-live-interview-neri-oxman-nature-humanity\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">her work in material ecology<\/a>, but she also faced allegations of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.dezeen.com\/2024\/01\/11\/neri-oxman-academic-plagiarism-row\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">plagiarism in her PhD thesis completed at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>      Share<\/p>\n<p class=\"attribution text-md text-sub-text m-0\">\n      Photography courtesy of         Oxman\n                <\/p>\n<p>    Read more<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Designer Neri Oxman has created a fabric dyeing concept where a bacterial solution is sprayed onto a 3D-knitted&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":950314,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[64,63,107896,105,2957],"class_list":["post-950313","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-technology","tag-au","tag-australia","tag-neri-oxman","tag-technology","tag-usa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/950313","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=950313"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/950313\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/950314"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=950313"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=950313"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/au\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=950313"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}