It’s a thrill to check bikepacking off my 2025 bucket list. The trip might have been my first, but it certainly won’t be my last!
I kept an eye on the forecast for days before leaving. Wisconsin has been experiencing a lot of rain. At times, the forecast was pristine, but then it suddenly changed with predictions of thunderstorms and hail. Finally, Thursday night, I committed to my packing list and did my best to minimize the weight. Plus, everything had to fit in the bikepacking bags I had. (A complete gear list is at the end of this article.)
On Friday morning, I drove the three hours northwest to Reedsburg, Wisconsin, and met up with Barb and my cousin George. Reedsburg is the start of the 400 Trail. The trailhead is the historic 1905 Chicago-Northwestern railroad depot, which also serves as the Chamber of Commerce and visitor center. During the season, the building is fully staffed 7 days a week by delightfully friendly people. There are indoor bathrooms and water fountains. Since the trails require a trail pass, I purchased three daily passes for $5 each (or $25 for the year).
About the 400 State Trail
In June of 1993, the 400 State Trail officially opened. It was developed on an abandoned Chicago-Northwestern Railroad bed and named for the passenger train that traveled the 400 miles between Chicago and Minneapolis/St. Paul in 400 minutes.
The trail consists of packed limestone screenings and bridges with planked floors. The trail offers beautiful scenery, wildlife, sandstone outcroppings, and rolling farmland, and runs parallel with the Baraboo River.
Day One: Reedsburg to Wilton (38 miles)
We set out around 11 am. Barb was along for the Full Monty, while George would leave us at mile 18 in Hillsboro. Living in Madison, WI, George was familiar with the trail and enjoyed serving as a tour guide, pointing out key sights along the way, including the latest mural in Wonewoc. It is a rendition of Norman Rockwell’s Rosie to the Rescue. Besides the Rosie mural, the town had three others within a two-block radius.
Wonewoc was settled in 1851 and shipped hundreds of cars of railroad ties, cardwood, and other forest products each year.
The town of Wonewoc’s newest mural, Norman Rockwell’s Rosie to the Rescue, was a perfect spot to take a few pictures.
Just a few pedal strokes down the trail, we stopped again. The sight of a bed in the middle of a field, complete with a quilt bedspread, pillow, and stuffed animal, beckoned us to take pictures. Upon closer examination, the bed is entirely made of wood, with the pillow and stuffed animal made of cement. It was all in an effort to promote a trailside campsite.
A bed in the middle of a field beckons for a photo op.
Off again like a herd of turtles, we continued down the trail just soaking in all the beauty of lush farmlands, waterways, and rock outcroppings. When we hit the town of Hillsboro, George took the spur trail to visit friends, and Barb and I continued.
We hit the town of Elroy around 1 pm and asked at the trail shop for lunch recommendations. We were told the Trails End had good sandwiches and was only a couple of blocks off the trail. Two women who used to work together at a law firm now own the saloon/restaurant. It is their post-retirement gig. They were kind enough to let us bring our bikes into the building while we ate, keeping them safe.
The start of the Elroy-Sparta trail, where you can rent a bike, grab a snack, and use the restroom.
Elory-Sparta Trail History
The section of railroad between Elroy and Sparta was completed in 1873 by the Chicago and North Western Railway (C&NW). Trains had to manage a 3% grade, going uphill into the tunnels and downhill into the next community. To overcome the grade, locomotives would use pusher or helper engines to aid the trains uphill. Gravity would then do the work on the other side, bringing the trains into the next station. I want to note that we did not have pushers for our bikes, but those downhills were fun!
At its height in the early 20th century, six passenger trains and 40-50 freight trains passed daily along the tracks between Elroy and Sparta. The line mainly served to transport agricultural commodities and civilian passengers, but it also carried troop trains to Fort McCoy during World War I and World War II.
The most famous features of the trail are its three tunnels, which were constructed to ease the trains’ passage through the rugged landscape. The longest of these tunnels is ¾ mile long and took three years to complete. To prevent the damaging effects of freeze-thaw in the wet tunnels, large doors were constructed and were to be closed from mid-November until the end of March.
The Elroy-Sparta Trail is considered the first rail-to-trail in the U.S. It boasts five small towns along its 32.5-mile route. The scenery includes wetlands, prairies, farmland, and unglaciated areas.
Continuing to Wilton
After lunch, we picked up the Elroy-Sparta trail and headed towards Wilton. Shortly after the town of Kendall, we began the gradual climb to tunnel #1. I remember that in past years, when I’d ride this trail, you could feel the cold air coming from the tunnel, alerting you that it was getting closer. It was always refreshing on a hot summer day.
Tunnel #1 is the shortest of the three tunnels on the Elroy-Sparta Trail
We arrived in the small town of Wilton around 4 pm, our home base for the next two nights. Barb headed to the Wilton Community campground to set up her tent, and I went to the Mid-Trail Motel.
The small town of Wilton offers camping, one motel, and an Airbnb.
Since Carrie is still a working stiff, she drove to Wilton in time to meet us at the Hitchin’ Post for dinner. The women-owned bar/restaurant is the only place to eat in town and features a Friday night fish fry, as well as other delicious menu items.
Day 2 – Wilton to past Bangor to Wilton (72 miles)
Saturday morning, we got an early start. It would be easier pedaling today since we left our packs in Wilton. The plan was to ride to Sparta, pick up the LaCross River Trail, and then ride until the group decided it was time to turn around, retrace our steps, and head back to Wilton.
Ready to roll at 8 a.m. on day two of our adventure (from left to right: Barb, Sheri, Carrie).
Shortly after leaving Wilton, we started climbing to Tunnel #2, then downhill into Norwalk. Then climb once again to the longest of the three tunnels. Since it was still relatively early, we had the tunnel to ourselves. Carrie led, I was next, and Barb was in the rear. As we began pedaling through the ¾-mile tunnel in silence, I started hearing the hymn “Hallelujah,” and the tunnel’s acoustics gave it a profoundly spiritual quality. Was it real or my imagination? Upon exiting the tunnel, Carrie and I looked at each other, wondering who was singing, if it was being piped into the tunnel, or if we were imagining it. It turns out Barb had an angelic voice.
We enjoyed the long downhill until almost Sparta. A quick stop at the Speed Bike Shop, which is sadly for sale, and then pedaling onto the La Crosse River Trail. Ready for an early morning snack, we jumped off the trail and headed into downtown Sparta. Many tourists were shopping, eating, and browsing the farmer’s market. On the way back to the trail, we stopped at the park, where the famous giant statue of a man on a penny-farthing was standing.
Since Sparta sits astride the junction of the Elroy-Sparta and La Crosse River State Trail, there is a lot of biking activity in the area. In 1990, Sparta was given the prestigious title of “Bicycle Capital of America”.
History of the La Crosse River Trail
The 22-mile trail was constructed on the abandoned Chicago Northwestern Railroad bed. The trail follows the La Crosse River, where you cross bridges, view trout streams, and farmland.
The steel stringer bridge on the La Crosse River Trail near Bangor, WI, known as C&NW Bridge #615, was built in 1902.
Today’s ride was an out-and-back, so we decided to go about 37 miles from Wilton before heading back. Around 1 pm, it was time to find a lunch stop, and it happened to be in the little charming town of Bangor, which preserved many of its historic buildings. Winnebago Indians were the first known residents of present-day Bangor. The first European settlers were Welsh, and they named their home after Bangor in Wales.
We picked the Wales Mill Pub & Bistro since we could sit by the window and keep an eye on our bikes. The husband/wife team purchased a condemned building that used to be the town’s grocery store, converting it into three different businesses. After the husband prepared our meals, he came out front to chat with us about the building’s history. Afterwards, we wandered next door to purchase the wife’s freshly baked cookies to fuel our ride back to Wilton.
Our lunch stop a few blocks off the trail in Bangor was a pleasant surprise.
The ride back to Wilton was faster since we weren’t stopping as often for pictures; however, the trail was more crowded, and unfortunately, we didn’t have the tunnel to ourselves.
Dinner that evening was 3.5 miles from Wilton at a historic one-room schoolhouse built in the mid-1800s. Dorset Valley Schoolhouse Restaurant serves up delicious homemade dinners and desserts. We didn’t leave hungry.
Day 3 – Wilton to Reedsburg (38 miles)
This morning, we had a hearty breakfast at the Hitchin’ Post, readied the bikes, said goodbye to Carrie, and retraced our route from Friday. A 20 mph tailwind made for a much faster trip, plus we didn’t stop to take pictures of the murals or pose on the wooden bed. We did come across a hummingbird moth hovering in the middle of the trail. So cool, as I had only seen photographs of them. The miles flew by, and before we knew it, we were back at the cars in Reedsburg.
The Hitchin’ Post is women-owned and offers home-cooked meals and libations.
I stopped inside the Reedsburg depot to change before the three-hour drive home and struck up a conversation with the woman working the counter. She asked all about our ride and was excited to hear we had such a great time. She also informed me that the Great River Trail will remain closed until 2028 because a wooden bridge along the trail was burned down. It’s a shame because the trail system continues past La Crosse, where you pick up the Great River Trail, which then goes another 25 miles to Marshland.
Conclusion
My inaugural bikepacking trip was a resounding success, offering just the right blend of freedom and adventure. Although I adjusted my original plan of riding from Reedsburg to Sparta on the first day to meet up with another group, the experience was everything I had hoped for and more.
With this initial trip under my belt, I’m feeling confident and prepared for my upcoming four-day bikepacking journey on the KATY Trail this September. The prospect of carrying my gear for the entire duration is no longer daunting, and I’m excited to put my newfound skills to the test. Bring on the next adventure!
Gear Selection
Salsa Cutthroat with 45mm tires (same tires used for my Unbound Gravel race)
Tailfin AeroPack Cargo Rack and 16L mini panniers (While 16L was fine for a three-day summer trip, I’ll need more room for a more extended trip and to accommodate cooler-weather clothing.)
Topeak Tubular bar Bag
Relevate Design Mag Tank top tube bag
Garmin Edge 1040 Plus Solar (used only 24% power for the entire trip)
KOM Cycling Quick Release Light 1000 (used for the tunnels and when the trail got busy)
Tailwind High Carb Fuel Mix (day 2 only)
Stio Pinion Down Pullover Jacket
Sheri Rosenbaum regularly contributes articles and reviews products for RBR. She’s an avid recreational roadie who lives in the Chicago area and a major advocate for women’s cycling, serving on the board of directors and volunteering with the Dare2tri Paratriathlon Club. Click to read Sheri’s full bio or visit her web site sunflowersandpedals.com.
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