Marugame Udon is a Japanese restaurant in Toronto that feels like a bustling workshop and restaurant rolled into one. Built on the belief that beauty lies in simplicity, it’s a spot where seemingly straightforward menu items are made well enough to dazzle.
At Marugame Udon, the first thing customers see upon entering is a team of strong-armed workers wrestling weighty wads of dough into submission. The placement of the spectacle is intentional; the chain’s traditional Sanuki-style udon noodles are the beating heart of this precise machine.
Founded in Marugame, in Kagawa Prefecture, Japan, Marugame Udon celebrates the centuries-old tradition of hand-crafted udon. Made from imported flour, water and salt, the dough is coaxed into squared-off noodles that are smooth and bouncy, with a distinctly chewy, “mochi, mochi” texture.
Made fresh throughout the day, the noodles have gained enough of a following to warrant more than 1,000 locations worldwide. The Toronto restaurant is the company’s third in Canada, after Vancouver and Calgary.
“We hope Marugame Udon gives Toronto a quick, affordable taste of authentic Sanuki udon,” says Shawn Du, the company’s president and master franchisee.
Buzzing with the energy of the eager, the fast-casual spot almost feels too small. At 80 seats, it’s never quiet, hosting a rotating cast of curious newbies and in-the-know veterans.
Joining the line at the noodle station, they’re ushered through ordering and grab-and-go. A handy “How To Udon” sign, plus a veritable army of employees, assures that there’s never too long a delay.
Piping-hot bowls delivered; there’s an assortment of golden tempura to consider. An extensive selection, it includes delicate veggies, seafood and less common items, such as oozy Egg Tempura ($2.49/piece). Popular enough that it never seems to sit for long, it’s also reliably crisp and hot, never soggy.
Though portions at Marugame Udon are not small, there’s little harm in surrendering to the lure of Shrimp ($1.99/piece), Squid ($2.99/piece) or Chicken Tempura ($3.99/piece), served with dashi shoyu and tentsuyu, for dipping. Delicious, simple and relatively inexpensive, these snacks fit neatly with the team’s mantra of finding life’s small joys.
Also deep-fried, Chicken Karaage ($3.99) is made from tender dark meat that’s marinated in signature sauce. Served in petite bowls, there’s enough in one order to share.
Still, it’s likely you came for the noodles. Available in a variety of savoury bowls, you can have them simply submerged in delicate dashi broth, topped with sweet fried tofu or beef, nuzzled up to a wobbly onsen egg, or blanketed in fragrant curry sauce.
In a signature bowl of Nikutama Udon ($13.99), they’re coiled into a pool of concentrated, kaeshi-sweetened broth, gossamer ribbons of Canadian beef and a soft-boiled egg gathered neatly on one side of the bowl. A smattering of green onions acts as an aromatic final touch.
Pared down to a mere handful of ingredients, it’s a dish infused with the confidence of trusted recipes. Balanced and moreish, its every ingredient plays its role exceptionally well—the noodles are predictably springy; its broth, warming and rich; its beef, a tender, umami hit that you’ll breathlessly slurp up. In short, it’s all lip-smackingly good.
Topped with a burnished cutlet, Chicken Katsu Curry Udon ($13.99) features the same noodles, this time buried in viscous house curry sauce. Gravy that straddles the line between savoury and sweet, it’s smooth, glossy and gently spiced.
So, maybe you don’t like udon? Maybe you’re deeply concerned about unpredictable noodles staining your sweater or just want to scale back on your gluten intake? This is why there are rice dishes at an udon shop.
Pairing short-grain Koshihikari rice with marinated beef, onions and egg, Gyu Don ($11.49) is glossy, fluffy and light. Without broth or curry sauce to get in the way, the sweetness is concentrated in every bite.
In Japan, says a sign at Marugame, udon is a way of life. With bowls this good, it’s no wonder.
Marugame Udon is located at 494 Yonge St.