Collagen, the most abundant protein in our bodies, can be found in our muscles, bones, tendons, and ligaments and is perhaps best known for giving skin its firmness and elasticity. But as we age, we lose the protein throughout our bodies (and produce less), so stimulating collagen production becomes incredibly essential for our overall skin health.
Other benefits of collagen for the skin, according to Jane Yoo, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Jane Yoo MD Dermatology, include hydration, smoother texture, and improved wound healing and scar recovery. Because our collagen production naturally declines as we age (Dr. Yoo says we lose about 1% of collagen a year starting from our mid-20s), when we don’t bother stimulating the collagen in our skin, we may experience sagging skin, deep static wrinkles, the loss of jawline and cheek definition, and thinner skin all around.
“The most important thing you can do for your skin is help it produce collagen,” agrees Carrie Gross, cofounder of Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare. “This will help to prevent sagging, a loss in elasticity, and wrinkles.” Gross helped her husband create his eponymous brand 24 years ago, and among all the amazing products they’ve launched, one remains the ultimate cult product: the Universal Daily Peel. It has won over several celebrity fans (Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Sydney Sweeney, Lily Aldridge, and Chrissy Teigen, to name just a few) and promises the same glow-boosting results as the doctor’s in-practice acid peels.
“I think it’s so popular because it gives an immediate glow, but in the long term, it boosts collagen formation, produces density in the skin, protects the skin barrier, and balances the pH,” Gross says. How else can one boost collagen and get the same glow? The experts share their tips below.
Vitamin C Is Key
“It’s an active that you should use in the morning to protect your skin from free radicals in the environment and in pollution,” Gross explains, adding that free radicals break down collagen fibers. “As we age, we produce less collagen and the collagen we do produce becomes weaker. Vitamin C helps create stronger, higher-quality collagen. It also increases its volume, which is why you should think about starting to use it from the age of 20.” In Gross’s view, vitamin C is as necessary to your skin-care routine as SPF.
Turn to Other Actives
Dr. Yoo points out several other active ingredients known to stimulate collagen that you can consider. The first is retinoids. “This is the number one for collagen induction,” says Dr. Yoo. As we know, retinoids are the gold standard for antiaging, as they stimulate collagen production and increase skin-cell turnover for clearer, brighter skin. She says to look to retinoids such as retinol and tretinoin for your routine.
Then there are peptides, which signal to cells to boost collagen synthesis, strengthen the skin barrier, and reduce inflammation. Other ingredients to consider include bakuchiol, growth factors, vitamin B3, niacinamide, and chemical exfoliants such as glycolic and lactic acid.
Don’t Forget Eye Cream
“The area around the eye is normally the first to show signs of aging,” she says. “There are many muscles around the eye, and when we talk and use expression, they affect that skin. Cheeks, on the other hand, have no sebaceous glands and therefore only need to be moisturized to prevent wrinkles.” From your early 20s, she advises using a sunscreen in the morning and both a serum and an eye cream at night.
In-Office Treatments
The method Dr. Yoo says is the most effective for stimulating collagen is an in-office treatment. (Make sure to see a board-certified dermatologist you trust.) “Fractional laser resurfacing, radiofrequency, microneedling, chemical peels, and ultrasound therapy all work by creating controlled injury that triggers the full wound-healing cascade,” she explains. “[It’s] the body’s most powerful collagen-synthesis mechanism.”
At-Home Stimulation
If in-office treatments aren’t in your budget, you can turn to at-home solutions. Dr. Yoo says they won’t be as effective, but a few studies show they can help. She lists microneedling rollers, microcurrent devices like NuFace, and LED therapy as devices you can incorporate to help stimulate collagen production.
It’s in the Genes
“Genetics plays a substantial role as baseline collagen density and fiber architecture are genetically determined,” Dr. Yoo says. “Some patients have inherently denser, more resilient dermis. Skin with higher baseline collagen density ages more slowly, sags later, and responds more dramatically to stimulation.”
The rate and age at which collagen declines are also influenced by our genetics, as is how our bodies break down collagen in response to stressors. But don’t let that stop you from curating a skin-care routine with the right ingredients or practicing good skin-care habits.
“Genetics sets the ceiling and the floor, not the outcome,” Dr. Yoo says. “Sun avoidance, consistent topical use, and appropriate procedures can dramatically narrow the gap between a genetically ‘disadvantaged’ and ‘advantaged’ skin type.”
Less Is More
When it comes to preserving our skin’s collagen and preventing aging, less is more, Gross says. “It’s better to use gentle ingredients and actives on a daily and consistent basis than to use a strong active, such as retinol, on an ad hoc basis. You get better benefits that way.” She adds that retinol is not for everyone, as it can cause sensitivity and irritation. “One of the mistakes we make is wanting to achieve benefits with a single product, as if it were a miracle product.” A robust skin-care routine that includes carefully considered active ingredients and, crucially, SPF is key.