At Maria Celeste, expect Portuguese classics like Bacalhau à Brás.
I’ll admit I’ve been looking forward to this one.
For a city as diverse as Vancouver, it’s surprising how few restaurants have explored Portuguese cuisine in a contemporary way. That’s part of what makes Maria Celeste so exciting. The intimate new restaurant promises to bring one of Europe’s great food cultures to Vancouver through two brothers deeply connected to their Portuguese heritage.
Located at 4181 Fraser St., Maria Celeste is the first independent restaurant from brothers Justin and Cristian Isidro. Named after their mother, the 36-seat restaurant draws inspiration from Portugal’s traditional tascas: neighbourhood gathering places where simple food, good wine and conversation come together around the table.
Many Vancouver diners will already recognize the Isidro brothers from some of the city’s most-respected restaurants. Justin previously led front-of-house operations at Michelin-starred Kissa Tanto while also working with Meo and Bao Bei. Cristian has spent the past several years cooking in Vancouver, London and Porto, including time at Kissa Tanto, Lisboeta and Cozinha das Flores, shaping a style that honours Portuguese tradition while embracing local ingredients.
Co-owner known for wine knowledge and Michelin-recognized service
The menu is designed to encourage sharing, much like the meals the brothers grew up with.
Expect Portuguese classics including Bacalhau à Brás, made with salt cod, egg and crisp potatoes, alongside golden shrimp rissois, seafood rice with prawns, mussels and clams, as well as larger-format dishes such as Iberian pork with clams and Carrara Wagyu finished with a traditional Lisbon-style café sauce.
Guests can also opt for the Come e Cala-te tasting menu, allowing the kitchen to showcase the ingredients and dishes it is most excited to serve.
Wine is equally central to the experience. Justin, a certified sommelier and recipient of the Michelin Guide Vancouver’s inaugural Best Service Award, has curated an all-Portuguese wine list highlighting regions including Vinho Verde, Alentejo and Bairrada, while celebrating both historic producers and smaller growers from across the country.
Designed in collaboration with Studio Roslyn, the 1,300-square-foot dining room reflects the understated warmth of a traditional Portuguese tasca, with natural wood, aged materials and an inviting atmosphere meant to encourage lingering over food and wine.
Maria Celeste officially opens Tuesday, Aug. 4. The restaurant will be open Tuesday through Sunday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations are available online, with walk-ins also welcome.