This 27-year-old whisky from J.P. Wiser’s was finished in Japanese Mizunara oak casks.Corby Spirit and Wine/Supplied
The launch of a limited-edition bottle from J.P. Wiser’s marks another milestone for Canadian whisky. A 27-year-old whisky finished in Japanese Mizunara oak casks was introduced by the Hiram Walker & Sons distillery in Windsor, Ontario this month and retails for $599.95 per bottle.
That hefty price reflects the cost of extended maturation as well as the cost of the Japanese oak barrels used to finish the 1,000-bottle batch. The longer whisky ages in barrel, the more it evaporates (between 2 and 5 per cent per year depending on cask size and climate), driving up the cost per bottle to account for the loss.
Canadian whisky is good, actually
According to J.P. Wiser’s master blender Don Livermore, a single mizunara oak barrel can cost 20 times the amount of a normal new barrel. That is, if you can get your hands on one.
“It’s difficult to get them over here and to select the right whisky to put into it,” says Livermore, who acquired nine barrels constructed with Japanese oak by a European cooperage. Mizunara trees can take up to 200 years to mature to a point where the wood is useful for barrel making, and even then it’s challenging to work with. The trees don’t grow straight and the wood is more porous than other varieties, which means mizunara barrels can be prone to leaking.
That considerable effort and expense is worth it to whisky producers, who prize oak’s ability to contribute unique character and flavours, suggesting sandalwood, cinnamon and coconut to their spirits.
For J.P. Wiser’s special release, Livermore blended rye- and corn-based whiskies before aging for two years in the mizunara casks. The finished spirit is bottled at cask strength (62.1 per cent alcohol by volume). He says the collectors that buy the whisky can decide how much water, if any, they wish to add to unlock flavours in the glass. (Adding drops of water to whisky can release complex aromas and flavours muted by the high alcohol content.)
Needless to say, there’s no mention of mixing with ginger ale or cola.
Don Livermore, J.P. Wiser’s master blender, said it’s difficult to choose the right whisky to age in mizunara oak barrels.Supplied
As use of Japanese oak increases, critics question whether mizunara oak on the label signals a better spirit or is just a marketing ploy? The expense of the wood means that some international distilleries work with mizunara oak inserts, placing sticks, staves or small pieces of wood into a container as a cost-effective way to flavour their spirit, reserving barrels for luxury releases.
Wiser’s new expression isn’t a textbook example of mizunara oak. It lacks the ethereal fragrance – floral and warm spice – that comes with extended aging in the rare casks. But using the barrels to finish the aging contributes to a remarkable whisky that offers fantastic depth and subtlety even at its high proof. A few drops of water lighten the mood, resulting in a complex and delicately balanced Canadian whisky.
Wiser’s mizunara oak whisky is available at select liquor stores across the country.
Three other whiskies to savour
J.P. Wiser’s Legacy (Canada), $54.95
Wiser’s has re-booted the fan favourite Legacy label to honour the 200th birthday of distillery founder John Philip Wiser. A limited-edition release made for LCBO outlets, the 200th anniversary edition is a blend of corn and rye whiskies aged in a mix of barrels including used bourbon and port casks. Expect a pleasing array of caramel, pepper and fruit notes, with a lingering finish. A step up from the classic Wiser labels. This has 45 per cent ABV. Available in Ontario.
Spring Mill John Sleeman & Sons High Rye Straight Whisky (Canada), $64.95
This straight whisky has grown in popularity as consumers seek out replacements for premium U.S. spirits. Its spicy and layered flavours are nicely integrated, which makes for a complex sipper with a palate that evolves from sweet to a drying peppery and cedary finish. This has 48 per cent ABV. Available direct, johnsleemanandsons.com
The Glenlivet Fusion Cask (Scotland), $134.95
An innovative approach in the cellar, combining rum and bourbon barrels to create so-called “fusion casks,” results in an expressive single malt with a crowd-pleasing nature. The style is fruity and spicy from top to bottom with oak-derived honeyed and vanilla notes that add to the appeal. Best enjoyed neat. This has 40 per cent ABV. Available in Ontario at the above price, various prices in Alberta.