Chicken and waffles, French toast and hand-spun milkshakes are some of the favourites at popular Pemberton spot Douce Diner
From the lineup outside, Douce Diner looks like a classic retro diner. But watching the plates pass by, it’s clear this is no ordinary greasy spoon.
My 12-year-old daughter and I politely squeeze our way through the crowd as we’re led to a two-top, taking in the cheerful retro décor along the way. Black-and-white hexagon tiled flooring and pops of pink, yellow and mint green set the scene, while round black stools line an elevated counter beneath a glowing “Hello Sunshine” neon sign. Vintage posters add to the throwback feel, and peekaboo windows into the glossy, white-tiled walls offer a glimpse into the kitchen.
Owned and operated by veteran chef Dawn Doucette, a former Top Chef Canada competitor, this North Vancouver brunch spot puts a farm-to-table spin on classic diner dishes, with a healthy dose of 1950s nostalgia. Doucette took over the former Corner Café at 1490 Pemberton Ave. and reimagined the space, opening Douce Diner in June 2019. Nearly seven years later, the brunch spot has clearly found its footing in the neighbourhood.
Inside, the lively room hums with conversation and the clinking of cutlery. Families, couples and solo diners fill the tables, and Elton John’s “Bennie and the Jets” plays over the speakers. I catch a few fellow diners singing along, and it’s hard to resist joining in.
The menu presents a familiar dilemma: do I go for the Eggs Benedict, served on house-made buttermilk biscuits, or the crispy fried chicken and waffles with country sausage gravy? After some deliberation, I opt for the latter. My daughter needs less time to decide. Having spotted a plate of brioche French toast passing by, she knows exactly what she wants.
The chicken and waffles deliver, with a perfectly-crispy panko-fried chicken breast perched on top of a fluffy waffle that takes up the whole plate. I add a dollop of the country-style gravy, and drizzle it with maple syrup. My daughter side-eyes my choice to combine gravy and syrup, but the pairing satisfies with every bite. It’s a hearty choice, and one that leaves little room for second thoughts about the Eggs Benedict I passed up.
My daughter’s French toast looks equally inviting. The slice of Challah bread is so thick, it looks like a cube. Mascarpone cream and lemon curd drizzle down its warm sides, with a crown of strawberries, raspberries and blueberries piled on top. Every time an old-fashioned, hand-spun milkshake passes our table, our attention follows. It’s hard not to be tempted.
By the time we finish, the lineup has grown even longer. Diners wait patiently for their turn, and the steady stream of people suggests this is no passing trend.
I glance toward the kitchen and notice the staff smiling as they work. It’s a small detail, but one that adds to the welcoming atmosphere, making the busy room feel less like a production line and more like a neighbourhood gathering place.
You won’t find old-school diner prices here, but Douce isn’t trying to be that kind of diner. With its scratch-made meals, and lively, feel-good atmosphere, it offers something a little different. Come hungry, and maybe save room for that milkshake.
Best Bite: I’m always a fan of chicken and waffles, and Douce does it well, but after sneaking a bite of the Brioche french toast, the sweet dish wins me over.
Douce Diner is located at 1490 Pemberton Ave. Bianca Bujan is an award-winning writer whose work has appeared in National Geographic and Food & Wine. She is a Lonely Planet guidebook author and cookbook contributor. As the food columnist for North Shore News, she writes about local food and the stories behind it. Contact: [email protected]