{"id":204051,"date":"2025-10-11T01:28:07","date_gmt":"2025-10-11T01:28:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/204051\/"},"modified":"2025-10-11T01:28:07","modified_gmt":"2025-10-11T01:28:07","slug":"dermatologists-say-you-should-never-combine-these-skincare-ingredients","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/204051\/","title":{"rendered":"Dermatologists Say You Should Never Combine These Skincare Ingredients"},"content":{"rendered":"

When I first became a beauty editor at Women\u2019s Health, I was incredibly excited to dive into the world of skincare. I immediately wanted to lather all the science-backed serums, creams, and exfoliating acids<\/a> onto my skin to achieve a supple, smooth and even-toned complexion. <\/p>\n

But as I\u2019ve spent more and more time talking to dermatologists, one thing has become clear: Less is usually more. \u201cI think there\u2019s this fallacy that the more you do, the better your results will be,\u201d says Aegean Chan<\/a>, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, dermatopathologist, and medical director at California Dermatology Group. But using too many strong, proven ingredients<\/a> at once can lead to a variety of not-so-pleasant side effects such as redness<\/a>, dryness and irritation, she says, \u201cand if your skin can\u2019t tolerate something, you\u2019re not going to get good results.\u201d<\/p>\n

Meet the experts: Aegean Chan<\/a>, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, dermatopathologist and medical director at California Dermatology Group. Joshua Zeichner<\/a>, MD, is an associate professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. Marisa Plescia is the vice president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and founder of FemChem Beauty<\/a>, a cosmetic chemistry consulting company.<\/p>\n

But don\u2019t worry, this doesn\u2019t mean that you have to throw away your favorite retinoid eye cream<\/a> or at-home chemical peel<\/a>. It just means you have to know how to strategically incorporate them both into your skincare regimen in order to sidestep the risk of making your skin angry. And luckily for you, I\u2019m here to help you do just that.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s everything you need to know about common ingredient combinations skincare experts say you should avoid, including the potential risks, and how to use them safely.<\/p>\n

Retinol + Alpha Hydroxy Acids <\/p>\n

In case you don\u2019t know, retinol<\/a> is considered a retinoid, which are a class of skincare ingredients derived from vitamin A. It\u2019s commonly used to treat acne, signs of aging, and improve skin texture. Retinol works by increasing cell turnover<\/a>, your skin\u2019s natural way of shedding old skin cells and replacing them with new ones, says Marisa Plescia, the vice president of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and founder of FemChem Beauty<\/a>, a cosmetic chemistry consulting company. It also stimulates fibroblasts<\/a>, the cells responsible for building collagen<\/a>, the protein responsible for keeping our skin looking youthful.<\/p>\n

Decades of research has shown that retinol is effective. However, using it can lead to irritation because it can disrupt the skin barrier<\/a>, the skin\u2019s frontline defense against the surrounding environment, Dr. Chan says. Here\u2019s how: The skin barrier is sort of like a brick wall, she explains. The cells on the outermost layer of skin, called keratinocytes, are like the bricks, while the mortar is made of fatty substances, she says.<\/p>\n

When you use retinol, or any retinoid for that matter, \u201cthey increase how fast your skin cells are getting pushed up to the surface,\u201d accelerating their normal life cycle, Dr. Chan says. \u201cSo that in and of itself disrupts the skin barrier,\u201d which then almost resembles a dilapidated brick wall, she adds. When the skin barrier is impaired, it struggles to maintain the moisture it needs to stay healthy, as well as keep out irritants. This can lead your skin to become red, dry, irritated and inflamed, Dr. Chan says. You can also experience a burning sensation or skin peeling, she adds.<\/p>\n

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid<\/a>, and mandelic acid<\/a>, meanwhile, work to \u201cdissolve the mortar\u201d between the bricks, Dr. Chan says. By doing this, the connections between the keratinocytes become weaker, which causes them to fall away and leave behind a soft and smooth complexion, she adds. AHAs have also been shown to cause keratinocytes to die, according to a 2024 review<\/a>. These acids, especially when frequently used in concentrations above 10 percent, also have the potential to damage the skin barrier, Dr. Chan says.<\/p>\n

So, whenever you\u2019re looking to use both an AHA and a retinol on your skin, remember that \u201cboth can affect the skin barrier in a negative way,\u201d Dr. Chan says. And even though both ingredients can certainly provide benefits to the skin, \u201capplying them together ultimately may cause more harm than good,\u201d adds Joshua Zeichner<\/a>, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.says.<\/p>\n

Note: It\u2019s best to keep these risks in mind when combining any AHA with retinol. But glycolic acid is generally considered the most potent one, Dr. Zeichner says, since its molecular structure allows it to penetrate more deeply into the skin. \u201cSo that one may tend to be a little bit more irritating than some others,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

What To Do Instead <\/p>\n

Generally speaking, when using new active ingredients, Dr. Chan recommends incorporating just one at a time. If you\u2019ve never used either an alpha hydroxy acid or retinol product before, start by using your retinol first. \u201cI think most dermatologists would agree retinoids are the most effective for a wide range of skin concerns,\u201d she says. And be sure to use it at night, Dr. Chan adds, since retinol can become less effective when it\u2019s exposed to sunlight.<\/p>\n

But don\u2019t dive right into using it every night of the week, she adds. Start with just two or three times, Dr. Chan says, and pay close attention to how your skin reacts. If after two weeks it becomes clear that your skin can handle it, you can feel free to start using it daily.<\/p>\n

Keep in mind, however, that using this ingredient, especially as a newbie, raises the risk of retinol purging<\/a>\u2014a temporary, normal reaction to using the ingredient that often involves breakouts, redness and skin flaking. You\u2019re most likely to experience a retinol purge within the first six to eight weeks of using the ingredient, Dr. Chan says. So if you\u2019ve used the ingredient for that long and haven\u2019t experienced those side effects, you\u2019re likely in the clear. And that\u2019s when you can begin to consider supplementing your routine with an AHA.<\/p>\n

The best way to go about this, Dr. Chan says, is to use the products on separate nights. That might mean scaling back your retinol usage to only four or five nights a week instead of all seven, she says, and using the AHA on the nights that you don\u2019t use your retinol. And while you\u2019re making this change to your routine, be on the lookout for signs of irritation. They include:<\/p>\n

If you experience any of those symptoms, your best bet is to stop using the ingredients until your skin recovers. Then, you can try to incorporate them into your routine at a slower rate, Dr. Chan says.<\/p>\n

So, we already know how retinol works and the ways it can potentially irritate the skin. But what about vitamin C, a beloved skincare ingredient known for its antioxidant benefits as well as its ability to even out skin tone and stimulate collagen production. Given how retinol and vitamin C are both skincare superstars, why wouldn\u2019t you want to team them up?<\/p>\n

Well, vitamin C, despite all its perks, can sometimes make the skin angry. Many vitamin C serums<\/a> won\u2019t cause an issue for most people, but one study<\/a> in the Journal of Clinical And Aesthetic Dermatology, for instance, found that formulations containing vitamin C in concentrations over 20 percent tend to be more irritating. This is because the form of vitamin C that\u2019s often used in skincare, L-ascorbic acid, is notoriously unstable and needs to be formulated with a very low pH in order to still benefit the skin, research suggests<\/a>. And when a substance disrupts our skin\u2019s natural pH (which is closer to neutral, rather than highly basic or acidic) the skin barrier can become impaired leading to excess sensitivity in irritation. This is especially true for folks who have inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema<\/a> or rosacea<\/a>, Dr. Chan says. Now, imagine pairing a high concentration vitamin C product with a retinol. Doesn\u2019t sound too good, right?<\/p>\n

What To Do Instead <\/p>\n

Luckily, the solution here is pretty simple: Just use these ingredients at different times of the day, Dr. Chan says. Since vitamin C is an antioxidant, it protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation from the sun (though it\u2019s no replacement for sunscreen<\/a>) as well as from environmental pollutants and other irritants. To maximize the benefits of a vitamin C serum, you\u2019re going to want to apply it in the morning so that your skin can be protected as you go about your day.<\/p>\n

As previously mentioned, retinol, meanwhile, can become less effective when it\u2019s exposed to sunlight. So your best bet is to use it before you go to bed. TL;DR\u2014use vitamin C in the morning, and retinol at night.<\/p>\n

Note: Because of vitamin C\u2019s inherently unstable nature, he recommends not combining it with any other active ingredients to avoid reducing its efficacy, Dr. Zeicher says. \u201cNo skincare routine needs to have more than two steps in the morning and two steps at night. I think of the morning as a time of protection against the environment and prevention of environmental damage,\u201d he says. \u201cAnd for me, that usually is a vitamin C serum and sunscreen.\u201d<\/p>\n

Retinol + Beta Hydroxy Acids<\/p>\n

It\u2019s clear that combining retinol with alpha hydroxy acids isn\u2019t a good idea. So you may be wondering whether the same warning applies to beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), the other main ingredient commonly used to chemically exfoliate the skin. The short answer is yes.<\/p>\n

Generally speaking, beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid<\/a> are considered gentler on the skin<\/a> than AHAs. They also achieve exfoliation differently. While AHAs work to dissolve the connections between keratinocytes or kill them off altogether, BHAs can penetrate inside the skin\u2019s pores and dissolve the natural oils that can build up inside them. This is why BHAs are a good for managing oily and acne-prone skin, Dr. Chan says.<\/p>\n

In gentle concentrations, BHA products aren\u2019t very likely to cause skin issues. But using it in combination with a retinol, which also raises the risk of impairing the skin barrier, \u201ctypically does cause a little bit too much irritation for most people,\u201d Dr. Chan says.<\/p>\n

What To Do Instead <\/p>\n

Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, you don\u2019t necessarily need to use BHAs and retinol on separate nights, Dr. Chan says. Instead, you just need to be mindful of the type of BHA product you\u2019re using.<\/p>\n

When helping her own patients establish effective and safe skincare routines, Dr. Chan often recommends using a wash-off BHA product as opposed to leave-on exfoliants, she says. \u201cYou can leave the product on for either 30 seconds or a minute and then wash it off,\u201d Dr. Chan says. \u201cAnd that reduces the potential of irritation developing. And then you can apply your retinoid on top of that.\u201d After that, be sure to nourish your skin with a moisturizer or hydrating product to further reduce the risk of angering your skin, she adds.<\/p>\n

Retinol + Benzoyl Peroxide<\/p>\n

If you step foot into a dermatologist\u2019s office asking for their help to target stubborn breakouts, there\u2019s a very good chance they\u2019ll recommend tretinoin<\/a> (a potent, prescription-only retinoid) and benzoyl peroxide, Dr. Chan says. \u201cThat\u2019s sort of our first line combination for dealing with mild acne,\u201d she says. Tretinoin is the superhero, she says, while \u201cbenzoyl peroxide is a sidekick,\u201d she adds.<\/p>\n

So for folks who don\u2019t necessarily need a doctor\u2019s help for their pimples, wouldn\u2019t combining retinol and benzoyl peroxide products<\/a> (an over-the-counter acne treatment) seem like a dream combination? Not exactly, Dr. Zeicher says. Benzoyl peroxide targets acne because it kills the species of bacteria that causes breakouts.<\/p>\n

However, this ingredient is also notorious for oxidizing and degrading tretinoin when used concurrently, Dr. Chan says. Plus, \u201cit tends to not play nicely with other kids in the sandbox,\u201d Dr. Zeichner says, which means it can potentially \u201cinactivate other ingredients\u201d like retinol, which tends to break down and become ineffective when exposed to light and oxygen. To be fair, there\u2019s far less research to ascertain that benzoyl peroxide does indeed degrade over-the-counter retinol, Dr. Chan says\u2014most of that sort of evidence focuses on tretinoin specifically\u2014but no one wants to risk their skincare ingredients canceling each other out, right?<\/p>\n

What To Do Instead <\/p>\n

If your heart is set on combining benzoyl peroxide with a retinoid, go for it. \u201cCombining products that have complimentary mechanisms of action is a very effective way of not only treating acne, but also other conditions,\u201d Dr. Zeichner says.<\/p>\n

But keep in mind that you\u2019re best off using adapalene<\/a>, a retinoid that won\u2019t degrade when used with benzoyl peroxide, but is generally considered weaker and less effective than tretinoin.<\/p>\n

The Bottom Line: Avoid using many active ingredients at once<\/p>\n

Dr. Zeichner says he likes to place skincare ingredients into two broad categories: active and supporting. Examples of active skincare ingredients include ones we\u2019ve gone over like retinol, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and vitamin C, to name a few. These ingredients aim to change how the skin looks or functions in some way, whether it be by exfoliating, reducing signs of aging, or targeting discoloration or acne.<\/p>\n

Common supportive ingredients, on the other hand, focus on repairing, maintaining and strengthening your skin\u2019s overall health, and they tend to be moisturizing, too, Dr. Zeichner says. Some examples include glycerin<\/a>, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and squalane. Technically, any ingredient that addresses a specific concern can be considered \u201cactive,\u201d according to Northwestern Medicine.<\/a> (But for the sake of clarity\u2014and to make it easier to understand which ingredients can safely be layered together\u2014it\u2019s helpful to think of these as two separate categories.)<\/p>\n

So if you\u2019re standing in front of your skincare cabinet feeling like it\u2019s a minefield, just try to remember this: \u201cActive ingredients tend to be more irritating, and combining actives is more risky because it can oftentimes lead to irritation,\u201d Dr. Zeichner says. \u201cBut supporting ingredients often can be combined with each other or with an active ingredient.\u201d<\/p>\n

And when you\u2019re getting ready to start your skincare routine, \u201cyou want to make sure that you\u2019re supporting your skin barrier,\u201d Plescia says. \u201cAnd you do that by adding and replenishing that moisture in your skin.”<\/p>\n

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