{"id":211954,"date":"2025-10-14T09:03:07","date_gmt":"2025-10-14T09:03:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/211954\/"},"modified":"2025-10-14T09:03:07","modified_gmt":"2025-10-14T09:03:07","slug":"once-a-fortnight-would-save-people-hundreds-how-to-make-your-bike-last-longer-according-to-experts-cycling","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/211954\/","title":{"rendered":"\u2018Once a fortnight would save people hundreds\u2019: how to make your bike last longer, according to experts | Cycling"},"content":{"rendered":"

Cycling is a cheap, accessible and green way to get around, and in most cities and built-up areas it can often be faster than any alternative. But owning and maintaining a bike isn\u2019t free. Buying one is a significant investment \u2013 even if you spread the cost using initiatives such as the cycle to work scheme. New parts and maintenance fees don\u2019t come cheap, either, especially if you run your daily commuter into the ground without regular TLC. \u201cIf you don\u2019t want to maintain your bike, [eventually] it\u2019s gonna cost you,\u201d says Lee Carter<\/a>, head mechanic at Bespoke Cycling<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The Guardian\u2019s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.\u00a0Learn more<\/a>.<\/p>\n

But you don\u2019t need an A-level in Allen keys to make your bike last longer and keep it in working order. In fact, it\u2019s possible to reduce trips to your local bike shop with a few simple tricks. Here, mechanics and experts share their advice and insight around cleaning, essential maintenance and when it\u2019s best to call in the specialists.<\/p>\n

How to look after your bikeGive it a washA hot, soapy bath once a fortnight should do the trick. Photograph: Vera_Petrunina\/Getty Images\/iStockphoto<\/p>\n

A bike is made up of loads of moving components, and when dirt and grime from roads or trails get into them, it can cause additional wear with every turn or rotation. Regular cleaning keeps the worst of it at bay, but it is particularly important over winter when road salt is added into the mix.<\/p>\n

\u201cNo one cleans their bikes enough, but just a hot, soapy bath once every two weeks would save people hundreds of pounds,\u201d says Carter. \u201cIt\u2019s not considered the most prestigious cleaning style, but it\u2019s the one that\u2019s accessible to everyone and it works\u201d \u2013 he suggests avoiding chemicals such as WD-40.<\/p>\n

\u201cAvoiding pressure washers is a big one \u2013 anything that can blow that grease out of the moving parts,\u201d adds Ryan Elson, co-founder of BikeBook<\/a>. \u201cHand cleaning is the best way to do it, and use a rag rather than letting it drip dry because that can create rust. It\u2019s all about keeping stuff dry and clean.\u201d<\/p>\n

Clean and lube your chain<\/p>\n

A bike\u2019s chain touches all parts of the transmission, and its location means it\u2019s in the line of fire for all sorts of road spray, rain and general gunk. It\u2019s, therefore, important to keep it clean to prevent it from grinding down more costly components such as chain rings and cassettes.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe two best things you could do with your chain would be to wipe it down with a dry rag to remove any surface debris, and then lightly apply a small amount of lube,\u201d says Carter, but he warns against going overboard with application. \u201cToo much is actually detrimental \u2013 you end up attracting large amounts of debris, usually road grit and grime, which then turns all that excess lubricant into a grinding paste that increases the wear tenfold.\u201d<\/p>\n

Mary Clarke, mechanic at Bee Pedal Ready<\/a>, says: \u201cPut one drop of oil on each roller, and that will flow through the chain and then put a rag around your chain and wipe off the excess. She adds that if you want to do a more thorough clean first, you can use a chain-cleaning tool or an old toothbrush and organic degreasers, but it\u2019s important to make sure it\u2019s clean and dry before applying the lube.<\/p>\n

All-weather lube, 50ml<\/p>\n

\u00a34.99 at Tredz<\/a>\u00a37.50 at Muc Off<\/a><\/p>\n

Chain cleaner<\/p>\n

\u00a314.99 at Juice Lubes<\/a>\u00a315 at Amazon<\/a>Top up your tyres<\/p>\n

One of the most common mechanical issues that cyclists of all ages and abilities face is the dreaded puncture. Although there\u2019s not a lot you can do about it if a sharp object slices through your tyre, it is possible to reduce the risk of pinch flats \u2013 where the inner tube gets caught between the rim and a blunt object such as a kerb or pothole \u2013 by keeping your tyres inflated.<\/p>\n

\u201cInscribed on the sidewall of every tyre will be a maximum inflation pressure, and you want to be about 5PSI under that, as a good sort of guide,\u201d says Carter. If you don\u2019t already own a pump, it\u2019s a worthwhile investment. He recommends an electric pocket pump for use at home and on the move, which easily fits in a pannier or pocket.<\/p>\n

Elson says checking your tyre pressure before each ride, which takes seconds, is a good habit to get into. \u201cIf you leave a bike for a while, air can seep out of anywhere \u2013 whether you\u2019ve got an old valve or just around the seal itself.\u201d<\/p>\n

In addition to regularly checking your tyre pressure, Carter says it\u2019s important to inspect the tyre itself for signs of wear \u2013 \u201csplitting, cracking or any large cuts or slices, which compromise the tyres\u201d \u2013 while a lot of bikes also feature wear indicators on the main tyre. \u201c[Often] two circles pressed into the rubber; once they disappear, it\u2019s time for the tyre to be changed,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Digital pump<\/p>\n

\u00a399.99 at Halfords<\/a>\u00a363.49 at Amazon<\/a>Don\u2019t break your brakesDisc brakes have rotors at the centre of the wheels. Photograph: Amilciar Gualdron\/Getty Images<\/p>\n

Bike brakes fall into two camps \u2013 rim brake or disc brake \u2013 and each requires its own maintenance. If you\u2019re not sure which your bike has, a rim brake sees the brakes applied to the wheel\u2019s rim itself, while disc brakes have rotors at the centre of the wheels.<\/p>\n

Rim brakes are found on older bikes and, as Carter puts it, are \u201cvery visual\u201d: \u201c[With this style of brakes], you need to check two things, the pad itself, and the rim. You can look to see if the pad material has gone \u2013 the pad has a wear-line indicator on it.\u201d If the little grooves have disappeared and you\u2019re dealing with a smooth surface, it\u2019s time to replace them. \u201cAlso, if the rim has gone concave, it\u2019s time to replace the rim, because if it fails, that\u2019s a bigger problem.\u201d<\/p>\n

Prolonging the life of both is about keeping the rim surface clean and replacing the brake pads before they get too worn, which is when they can start to wear the rim even more, sometimes taking big gouges out of it.<\/p>\n

Disc brakes, meanwhile, should be left well alone. \u201cIf they\u2019re working, don\u2019t fix them,\u201d says Clarke. A common issue she comes across is when people try to clean or oil their bike, and the brakes become contaminated. \u201cIf cleaning your bike, don\u2019t get any cleaning solution or oil on the brake rotor or the pads, and probably take your wheel off or cover up your rotor. The contamination goes on the pads and the rotor, and it doesn\u2019t wear off like it does with rubber pads and rim brakes \u2013 it just sinks in.\u201d<\/p>\n

The first thing a contaminated brake will do is squeal, but they can become very dangerous. \u201cIf they squeal and don\u2019t stop you, then the brake is definitely contaminated,\u201d adds Clarke. \u201cIt doesn\u2019t matter how hard you pull that brake, you just ride through it because it\u2019s slipping on the pads and rotor. You have to have new pads and new rotors to guarantee that it\u2019ll work.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cover up<\/p>\n

All the experts interviewed said that the best place for a bike<\/a> is inside or in a bike shed, but if it has to be outside, then a cover is essential.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe worst thing you can do is leave it out all the time, and then expect to come back in summer, have a service, and off you go,\u201d says Clarke. \u201cYou\u2019ll probably find so much is rusted and ruined, it wouldn\u2019t be worth it.\u201d<\/p>\n

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She recommends Oxford\u2019s waterproof cover \u2013 \u201cit\u2019s like a tarp that\u2019s designed to go over your bike, and if it\u2019s windy, just put some bungee cords around it\u201d. Clarke adds, though, that it\u2019s important to make sure the bike underneath is dry if you\u2019re planning to leave it for an extended period. If not, \u201ccovers can often become detrimental\u201d, she says. \u201cThe bike stays damp underneath them and will rust and corrode.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bike cover<\/p>\n

\u00a333.24 at Rackhams<\/a>\u00a336.99 at Decathlon<\/a>Mount some mudguards<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you\u2019re commuting, swallow any fashion pride and get yourself top-end, mudguards,\u201d says Clarke. \u201cThe SKS ones have got stainless steel fittings, last for ages, you can buy spares for them, and they not only protect you, but your bike too.\u201d<\/p>\n

Mudguards aren\u2019t a fit-and-forget accessory, though, and Carter says it\u2019s best to remove them come summer. \u201cThey often harbour dirt and grime,\u201d he says. \u201cDon\u2019t just leave them, because they wear through frames, and then it becomes catastrophic.\u201d In the early stages, this could be something cosmetic, such as chipped paint, but over time, a mudguard can take gouges out of a frame deep enough to weaken its structural integrity \u2013 particularly if it\u2019s carbon fibre.<\/p>\n

Mudguards<\/p>\n

\u00a338.99 at Tredz<\/a>\u00a344.99 at Condor<\/a>Lock it upThe best lock will be the one that meets your specific needs. Photograph: stockfour\/Getty Images\/iStockphoto<\/p>\n

The best defence is a good offence, and elongating the life of your bike also requires it to remain in your possession for years to come. While the best bike lock<\/a> will depend on budget, security requirements and factors such as weight, Elson recommends getting one with a guarantee attached. \u201cIt\u2019s about looking for brands that prove they live up to the standards, and they will market that on the lock itself. You want something quite beefy, but at the same time you don\u2019t want to be cycling around carrying something that weighs 10kg in a bag, so it\u2019s a fine balance. Kryptonite ones are really good, and they\u2019re proven to stop even angle grinders.\u201d<\/p>\n

For more, read the Filter\u2019s guide to the best bike locks<\/a><\/p>\n

Avoid overtightening bolts<\/p>\n

While these are basic recommendations, there are plenty of YouTube how-tos for every kind of bike maintenance need, from fixing a puncture to stripping your bike down and giving it a full service. But the more you start to tinker, the more specialist your at-home toolkit requirements become.<\/p>\n

One big issue inexperienced home mechanics face is overtightening bolts. Using too much force can often round the bolt heads, making them impossible to tighten or loosen, and at worst, it can damage and crack components \u2013 particularly if carbon fibre is involved.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you\u2019ve got a good-quality bike and it\u2019s got torque settings on it, you\u2019ll need to buy a torque wrench,\u201d says Clarke. \u201cWe have a Park Tool one, but you get them sometimes when they have Bike Week at Aldi. You\u2019ve got to buy a bike-specific one; car ones have very high torque because they\u2019re big old bolts.\u201d<\/p>\n

Adjustable torque driver<\/p>\n

\u00a369.40 at Halfords<\/a>\u00a357.97 at Amazon<\/a>Remember to service regularlyRegular services could save you a big bill in the long run. Photograph: Maskot\/Getty Images<\/p>\n

There are times when even confident home mechanics need to take their bike into the specialists at a local bike shop, or community-based free drop-in sessions such as Dr Bike<\/a> and Bee Pedal Ready<\/a>. The mechanics interviewed recommend getting your bike checked over every six to 12 months.<\/p>\n

\u201cRegular servicing is important and is one of the main things people tend to leave because the bike visually looks clean,\u201d says Carter. \u201cWhen we take bits off, underneath is always a much bigger story.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cI would always recommend every six months,\u201d adds Clarke. \u201cGet through winter, and then when the weather starts to get better in spring, look at having a service. If you don\u2019t need anything, the shop will probably tell you. It\u2019s not a legal thing like a car, but regular checks mean you\u2019re less likely to get a massive bill.\u201d<\/p>\n

For more bike inspiration from the Filter:
10 safety essentials cyclists won\u2019t leave home without<\/a>
The best bike lights to see and be seen when cycling in the dark<\/a>
The best bike panniers and handlebar bags<\/a><\/p>\n

Charlie Allenby is a health and fitness journalist who puts running and cycling gear through its paces on increasingly ridiculous endurance challenges<\/p>\n