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Montreal<\/a> Montreal<\/p>\n Byblos Le Petit Caf\u00e9<\/p>\n Iranian retreat in the heart of the PlateauBy Allison Van Rassel<\/p>\n Visuals by Two Food Photographers\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n Some restaurants are more than places to eat. They become emotional landmarks. Byblos Le Petit Caf\u00e9, in Montreal\u2019s Plateau, is one of those rare places that has absorbed the lives, conversations, homesickness and hunger of the people who have passed through it for more than 30 years.<\/p>\n Founded by H\u00e9m\u00e9la Pourafzal, who was born in northern Iran, Byblos has long contributed something deeply meaningful to Montreal\u2019s culinary landscape: a generous, lived-in expression of Iranian food and hospitality. It is not the kind of restaurant that feels polished into sameness. The cooking feels personal, rooted and domestic \u2013 carrying the memory of mothers, family kitchens, leisurely breakfasts and comfort.<\/p>\n That spirit is everywhere in the room. Framed faces with gentle, watchful expressions line the walls. Bookshelves give the space the feeling of a small cultural salon. Colourful handwoven blankets and cushions invite people to settle in. On the counter below a shelf of four shishas is a plump little goldfish in a small aquarium. In Iranian culture, goldfish are part of the traditions of Norouz, the Persian New Year, as symbols of spring, renewal and life in motion. This goldfish had been rescued. \u201cIt\u2019s been there for six years,\u201d says owner Pourafzal, laughing candidly. Paintings by Hamid Pourafzal, H\u00e9m\u00e9la\u2019s brother, add an intimate family layer to the atmosphere. It does not feel designed by a committee. It feels accumulated, cared for, inhabited.<\/p>\n The menu carries that same comforting spirit. The fragrant dishes transport guests far beyond the Plateau. Tea is served from morning to night, and the homemade jams make it easy to understand why H\u00e9m\u00e9la is affectionately known as the queen of preserves. Among its dishes are lamb stew, which was not an easy sell when H\u00e9m\u00e9la first opened the caf\u00e9. Many Montrealers, she recalls, were hesitant. \u201cTry it, and if you don\u2019t like it, don\u2019t pay for it,\u201d she would tell them. Today, she says with a laugh, it has become the caf\u00e9\u2019s most popular \u00e0 la carte dish.<\/p>\n But the dish most closely associated with Byblos is the feta and dill omelette \u2013 closer to soft scrambled eggs than a classic omelette \u2013 inspired by the flavours of her native Iran. Over the years, it has become a Montreal staple in its own right.<\/p>\n \u201cI never expected it would become so popular,\u201d H\u00e9m\u00e9la says. Today, the omelette has become, in the eyes of many loyal customers, as emblematic of Montreal as smoked meat or bagels. It is a comparison she receives with gratitude.<\/p>\n What Byblos brings to Montreal is not only Iranian food. It brings continuity. It remains a familiar place to return to for tea, for breakfast, for comfort, for conversation, or for one of those days when sitting somewhere warm makes the world feel a little less lonely.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: Most breakfast items from $5 to $21, three-course meals from $22 to $42<\/p>\n Feta and Dill Omelette<\/p>\n Tender and cloud-like, with a creamy, salty richness that lingers gently on the palate. Dill cuts through that richness, keeping each bite from feeling heavy while adding a fresh, gentle grassy-anise aroma.<\/p>\n Koukou Chegherteme<\/p>\n A Persian frittata with tender shredded chicken and saffron. The texture is denser and more layered, with the eggs holding everything together in a soft, savoury bite. The saffron adds a delicate floral warmth, giving the dish its golden hue and a quiet depth.<\/p>\n Borani Bademjan<\/p>\n A classic Persian eggplant-and-yogurt dish, tangy, cooling and savoury, with the silky softness of eggplant folded into creamy homemade yogurt. Its gentle acidity brightens the palate, while its lush texture makes it feel both refreshing and deeply comforting. Essential to a generous shared table.<\/p>\n Quebec City<\/p>\n Restaurant Wong<\/p>\n Heritage Chinese-Canadian food, reinvented after 66 yearsBy Allison Van Rassel<\/p>\n Visuals by Jeff Frenette\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n Restaurant Wong, with its legendary neon sign on Rue De Buade in the heart of Old Quebec, has been part of Quebec City\u2019s culinary landscape since 1960. For generations, it belonged to a familiar Chinese-Canadian tradition, one built on comfort, predictability and nostalgia. But over the past three years, this third-generation establishment has been quietly redefining itself.<\/p>\n Under chef Steven Wong, the menu now draws from childhood flavours, Cantonese references, Quebec ingredients and the instincts of a self-taught cook coming fully into his own. The result is not fusion for fusion\u2019s sake. It is something more interesting: a thoughtful negotiation between inheritance, identity, community and creative freedom.<\/p>\n Wong\u2019s cooking reflects the complexity of growing up between cultures in Quebec. The room itself seems to understand that tension. Guests are greeted by a laughing Buddha before entering a dining room where a glowing ceiling installation stretches overhead like a luminous canopy. Its panels, decorated with Chinese illustrations, calligraphy and landscape scenes, hover above red paper lanterns. The exposed stone walls of Old Quebec pull the room firmly back into its geographic reality.<\/p>\n As surprising as it may seem, the nineties-inspired soundtrack is not incidental. It belongs to the same autobiographical impulse as the menu. Steven Wong is not trying to recreate an imagined China, nor is he chasing a generic contemporary Asian aesthetic. He is building a restaurant around the sounds, flavours and memories that have shaped him.<\/p>\n The pandemic, strangely, helped make this possible. As the local chef community rallied around restaurants, and diners began paying closer attention to neighbourhood institutions, Wong found both recognition and encouragement. That support helped open a creative door, he says.<\/p>\n There is still a sense that Wong is in transition, and that is part of what makes the restaurant compelling. The menu, while already more focused than before, still carries traces of the restaurant\u2019s older abundance. The silken tofu with ground pork in a spicy Sichuan pepper sauce may be the kitchen\u2019s most convincing dish. The tofu is delicate, almost custard-like, while the pork brings savoury weight and the sauce wakes the palate with generous heat, without overwhelming it.<\/p>\n A major overhaul planned for December promises fewer dishes, more local ingredients and an even stronger commitment to personal storytelling. That sounds like the right direction. The restaurant\u2019s greatest potential may not lie in pleasing every memory attached to the restaurant, but in trusting the clarity of Steven Wong\u2019s own voice.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: Main dishes from $9 to $28<\/p>\n The Asian-Style Burrata<\/p>\n This dish that may be the clearest expression of Wong\u2019s current voice. Canadian-made burrata is served with a compote of Asian pear, yuzu, chrysanthemum, ginger and Thai basil, then paired with fried wonton chips. It\u2019s creamy, floral, citrusy and crisp in all the right places.<\/p>\n Quebec Bison and Pork Egg Rolls<\/p>\n Wong takes a familiar Chinese-Canadian dish and deepens it with local meat, savoury richness and a fruity sauce whose acidity keeps the whole dish lively, balancing nostalgia with a thoughtful sense of place.<\/p>\n Mun Fu Baby Back Ribs<\/p>\n Made with Quebec pork in a hoisin, five-spice and ginger sauce, the ribs are generous and layered with sweetness, spice and depth moving through the fall-off-the-bone meat. The dish feels like a nod to the family\u2019s origins in Hen Gong, a southern Chinese village known for its sugarcane farmland.<\/p>\n Halifax<\/p>\n Aster Caf\u00e9<\/p>\n Like dining at your Ethiopian auntie\u2019s houseBy Dakshana Bascaramurty<\/p>\n Visuals by Carolina Andrade\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n Dining at Halifax\u2019s Aster Caf\u00e9 feels less like going to a restaurant and more like paying a visit to the home of your favourite immigrant auntie. It\u2019s curated by an impulse that has nothing to do with Instagram perfection. The tables are dressed in burgundy tablecloths with clear plastic over top. Folk art and straw hats from the old country hang on the wall. A tiny wall-mounted flatscreen TV broadcasts the feeds from four security cameras, not unlike the apartment lobby cam my own grandma loved watching.<\/p>\n When you walk in, the air is perfumed with kibbeh, the spiced clarified butter that is vital in Ethiopian cooking. Many of the herbs and spices used in chef-owner Tsehaye Debele\u2019s kitchen are sourced by her husband, Zelalem Guda, who buys them on regular trips home to Ethiopia.<\/p>\n On a recent Friday afternoon, two women were sharing an order of the quintessential dish beyaynetu: small mounds of various stewed and stir-fried vegetables atop a base of injera, a thin fermented pancake made from teff flour.<\/p>\n Debele, who immigrated from Ethiopia in 2001, approached the two women asking not how things tasted, but what they needed more of. After they raved about the gomen \u2013 kale cooked with fried onions, ginger and garlic \u2013 Debele retrieved an extra portion from the kitchen for them with a warm smile.<\/p>\n Tsehaye Debele and her kids, Haawii and Surefale Getachew, treat customers like family at their Ethiopian restaurant in Halifax, N.S.<\/p>\n In its eight years of operation, Aster has become a home away from home to an eclectic mix of customers: newcomers living in the rental apartments nearby, vegan college students, young families, taxi drivers, homesick East Africans and university professors. It\u2019s one of the most nourishing, affordable sit-down meals you can get in the city.<\/p>\n Alia Saied brought her partner to Aster on their second date in 2021. It\u2019s since become their go-to spot for spontaneous dinners with friends, birthday celebrations and entertaining out-of-town visitors.<\/p>\n When the couple\u2019s daughter was first born, they\u2019d bring her to Aster and after setting out the food in front of them, Debele would scoop the infant up in her arms and walk around the restaurant cradling and cooing to her so Saied and her partner could enjoy their meal in peace.<\/p>\n Debele assumes this level of loving familiarity even with first-timers. When diners have asked for cutlery, Debele has torn off pieces of injera with her own hand and scooped up a bit of misir wot (red spiced lentils) and then put the food directly into their mouths. It\u2019s both a lesson in how Ethiopian food is meant to be consumed, but also an example of gursha, a cultural tradition meant to exhibit love and affection, that some translate as \u201cI feed you before I feed myself.\u201d<\/p>\n \u201cI like to be like family with my customers,\u201d Debele says. \u201cLike best friends.\u201d<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: most main dishes from $15 to $20<\/p>\n Beyaynetu<\/p>\n A vegan meal that even the most carnivorous will enjoy. Standouts are the unbelievably flavourful beets and kale, which are stir-fried with aromatics and then finished with kibbeh \u2013 a mix of herbs and spices that have been bloomed in melted organic butter. The injera is labour-intensive and takes multiple days to ferment but is always freshly-made, light and spongy.<\/p>\n Lamb Tibs<\/p>\n To make this Ethiopian classic, stir fried peppers, onions, chilis and bite-sized pieces of lamb are cooked fast on high heat, and in the final seconds of cooking, a glossy coating of kibbeh gives it a punch-up of flavour.<\/p>\n Doro<\/p>\n This is Debele\u2019s signature dish, which she says is her \u201ccustomer appreciation\u201d offering on Saturdays. It\u2019s a sweet and fiery chicken stew served with hard-boiled eggs that take on the beautiful brick-red tint of the berbere-spiced gravy.<\/p>\n Charlottetown<\/p>\n Cedar\u2019s Eatery<\/p>\n Pioneers of Lebanese cuisine in PEIBy Dakshana Bascaramurty<\/p>\n Visuals by Al Douglas\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n When Cedar\u2019s Eatery first opened in Charlottetown in 1979, staff had to patiently explain the menu to diners. Most had never heard of hummus, tabbouleh and falafel, let alone tasted it.<\/p>\n Cedar\u2019s introduced Lebanese cuisine to a population where most traced their lineage back to the British Isles and, almost half a century later, the pioneering restaurant remains a Charlottetown institution.<\/p>\n You might mistake Cedar\u2019s for a British pub upon entry: wood-panelled walls, cozy booths with paisley upholstery and century-old antique prints of ads for soap and cocoa on the walls. But look closer: a stained glass cedar tree on the wall, a hookah on a raised platform by a booth, a glass cake stand displaying baklava on the bar.<\/p>\n At lunch hour on a recent weekday, tables filled up with regulars: retirees trading updates on their grandchildren, public servants with ID badges clipped to their waists discussing summer plans; a family group spanning three generations roasting the tardy cousin who hadn\u2019t yet arrived.<\/p>\n Owner Ryan Abdallah, whose parents opened the restaurant three years before he was born, was raised in the kitchen, dinging the bell when orders were up and eventually learning how to make everything from fattoush salad to stuffed grape leaves.<\/p>\n Though his father Maroun, now 80, is retired, he stops by the restaurant every morning. He\u2019ll sit down, have breakfast, tea, \u201cand he\u2019ll walk around the kitchen and tell me what\u2019s wrong and how to fix it,\u201d Abdallah says with a grin.<\/p>\n Like father, like son. When Abdallah is in the kitchen or roaming the dining room, he\u2019s instructing staff to add bigger scoops of hummus to plates and ensuring there\u2019s enough chicken breast in the shish taouk entree that diners will get two meals out of it.<\/p>\n Server Jamie Crawford warned me and a dining partner that the portions are massive, and he was right. We needed three to-go containers to pack up the remnants of our feast. On their way out after dinner, a trio of women \u2013 all of whom had their own doggy bags of leftovers \u2013 surveyed the spread on our table and made approving remarks about what we\u2019d ordered. And then one broke into a cartoonish waddle as she went through the door to emphasize how full she was.<\/p>\n Casual shawarma shops are now common in Charlottetown, a city once dominated almost exclusively by oyster bars and taverns. But Abdallah believes the ingredient quality, the table service and especially the portion sizes are what keep the restaurant humming throughout the day.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: appetizers from $20 to $28, main dishes from $24 to up to $46 for the kebab plate<\/p>\n Cedar\u2019s Falafel<\/p>\n Made from mashed chickpeas and fava beans, the falafel is crispy, moist and light and is served rolled up in a foot-long pita. Ask for extra napkins \u2013 the zippy Lebanese tahini sauce will be dribbling down your chin with each bite.<\/p>\n Halloumi & Dressed Tomatoes<\/p>\n The best form of squeaky cheese is not the ubiquitous Canadian cheese curd, but Cedar\u2019s thick, salty, caramelized slices of seared halloumi set atop a cucumber coin. Consider it a cousin of the classic watermelon and feta pairing. And even out-of-season slices of tomatoes taste good when they have a thick cloud of tangy toum, a creamy garlic sauce, on top.<\/p>\n Lebanese Combination Platter<\/p>\n The servers will tell you they can bring more pita to dip into the mound of velvety hummus, but you won\u2019t have the space for it after you\u2019ve also feasted on the herby, slightly sweet stuffed grape leaves and the crispy miniature football of kibbeh. This is one you order \u201cfor the table.\u201d<\/p>\n Mobile, N.L.<\/p>\n Fork Restaurant<\/p>\n Fine dining on an oceanside homesteadBy Gabby Visuals by Johnny C.Y. Lam\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n As I made my way up the gravel drive, I could almost taste the warm bread with salty molasses butter I had at Fork Restaurant almost 10 years ago: Nan\u2019s bread, a miniaturized version of the two-bun-style loaves most Newfoundland grandmas have been making for generations. At the time, Fork was operating as a pop-up in a coffee shop, where chef-owners Kyle Puddester and Kayla O\u2019Brien would collect buckets of saltwater down the jagged rocks of Witless Bay to produce their own salt. Now, they have grown into a restaurant homestead on two hectares of land overlooking Mobile\u2019s harbour \u2013 and Nan\u2019s bread is better than ever.<\/p>\n The husband-and-wife team have created the kind of dining experience of which people often say, \u201cOh, I love that place. I\u2019m going to plan a trip this weekend \u2013 it has been too long.\u201d Though sometimes overlooked because it\u2019s a 40-minute drive from St. John\u2019s, it is well worth the journey for many tourists and \u201ctownies\u201d alike. Fork finds the balance between local tastes and curating a fine-dining menu \u2013 no easy feat in rural Newfoundland.<\/p>\n The first few weeks of the season, locals clamour to book reservations. Fork\u2019s cozy dining room hosts a mixed group, from iceberg-seeking tourists sitting cocooned in knit pillows on the banquette, to groups of friends sitting by the windows overlooking the ocean.<\/p>\n Puddester has always championed local ingredients from the restaurant\u2019s on-site farm or found by foragers, melding them with techniques from around the world. Cod tongues get a boost from light crispy tempura batter; agnolotti is stuffed with charred carrot and tossed with fiddleheads, and a clever take on chips and dip is made with foraged wild leek. Local cod is a staple on the menu, typically served with some kind of potato (as is tradition in Newfoundland), though sometimes it comes in the form of pierogi, cabbage, and dill, and at other times it\u2019s given the Italian treatment with gnocchi, puttanesca and anchovy bread crumbs.<\/p>\n Desserts are O\u2019Brien\u2019s specialty, utilizing French pastry techniques and drawing inspiration from Newfoundland. Trifle with rhubarb jelly, touton ice cream sandwiches and her version of a cinnamon bun \u2013 a cream cheese panna cotta with cinnamon salted caramel \u2013 and spiced cinnamon sugar fritters are on offer.<\/p>\n This year, Fork has hired Kyle Griffin to be the restaurant\u2019s dedicated gardener. \u201cThe goal is to have a small-scale regenerative farm on our property growing vegetables, herbs, berries and edible flowers,\u201d explains O\u2019Brien. \u201cThat\u2019s the dream!\u201d<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: most main dishes from $20 to $25, with duck breast an outlier at $46<\/p>\n Fried Paneer Cheese<\/p>\n A small plate that\u2019s been on the menu for years is a delight for all the senses, with beautifully presented crispy cubes of paneer and fragrant tikka masala, with cilantro chutney, yogurt and crispy onions.<\/p>\n Duck Breast<\/p>\n An impressive duck dish is always on the menu. Seared duck breast arrives with a savoury crispy granola, citrus hints, goat cheese and wildflower honey from a nearby apiary, or served with herb-toasted barley atop a puddle of carrot pur\u00e9e with lavender. On my most recent visit, the duck was a tribute to the humble turnip, a staple in Newfoundland cookery, served two ways (roasted and pur\u00e9ed) with a maple jus and bursts of tartness from partridgeberries.<\/p>\n Tea and Toast Bread Pudding<\/p>\n A witty spin on Newfoundland\u2019s beloved breakfast, O\u2019Brien infuses bread pudding with Tetley tea and serves it with a vanilla bean and Carnation milk gelato, topped with brown butter caramel.<\/p>\n Ottawa<\/p>\n Huong\u2019s Vietnamese Bistro<\/p>\n Shaking up the cuisine in a city of pho jointsBy Shannon Proudfoot<\/p>\n Visuals by Marianne Rothbauer\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n Ottawa is a fantastic place for Vietnamese food. That\u2019s in part a legacy of Project 4000, a 1979 effort by then-mayor Marion Dewar to resettle thousands of refugees after the Vietnam War.<\/p>\n Now, you can get pho, bun, rice wraps and banh mi at almost any hour of the day or night. But most of Ottawa\u2019s Vietnamese restaurants feature the same dishes \u2013 to the point that the menu numbers are often identical from one place to another.<\/p>\n Huong\u2019s Vietnamese Bistro, on the other hand, serves up something distinct for the knowing regulars who impart it with cult status. Named for its chef, Huong Nguyen, the restaurant has been around for 18 years \u2013 \u201clike a teenager,\u201d notes Kim Luu, co-owner and husband of the chef.<\/p>\n When it opened, they wanted to differentiate themselves from the many Vietnamese restaurants clustered on nearby Somerset Street in Chinatown, Luu says, so Nguyen came up with dishes no one else serves.<\/p>\n An appetizer of fried rice cake with egg might arrive at your table with him jokingly introducing it as \u201cVietnamese poutine.\u201d The addictive quality of rice cake \u201cfries\u201d that are perfectly crisp on the outside and pillowy like French toast within lives up to the nickname. Hainanese chicken \u2013 steamed chicken perched on a bed of rice infused with the flavour of the rendered fat \u2013 is another specialty.<\/p>\n At other places, spicy sate soup arrives with a slick of red chili oil on its surface, but at Huong\u2019s, the broth is thick and silken because it starts out as a paste of lemongrass, dried chilis, sesame seeds, peanuts and onion.<\/p>\n The restaurant\u2019s menu is unchanging, as are the specials scrawled on a whiteboard in Vietnamese and Chinese characters. A steady stream of dine-in and takeout customers duck into the utilitarian dining room with the unmistakable body language of regulars.<\/p>\n \u201cThey don\u2019t need a menu,\u201d Luu says, gesturing at customers Diana Cosovean and Noahm Ellis, having a late lunch during one mid-afternoon lull.<\/p>\n The couple have been visiting regularly together for five years, after a friend of Ellis\u2019s introduced him to the place. This is how it goes with Huong\u2019s: a secret handshake network of people who know.<\/p>\n \u201cIt\u2019s just better quality here,\u201d says Ellis. \u201cI leave rejuvenated, I feel good after eating here, but the restaurants on Somerset don\u2019t do the same.\u201d<\/p>\n Their go-to order includes spring rolls and tom yum soup that\u2019s closer than anything else in town to what they tasted on a trip to Thailand. For mains, they rotate between bun, rice dishes or fold-it-yourself rice wraps, which came with a tutorial from Luu the first time they ordered.<\/p>\n Over at the restaurant\u2019s cash counter, there\u2019s a row of miniature provincial flags, and a wall papered with dozens of banknotes from all over the world, passed along by customers.<\/p>\n \u201cBelieve it or not, each bill I can tell who\u2019s given it to me,\u201d Luu says.<\/p>\n They\u2019re all insiders who know where to get Vietnamese dishes you won\u2019t find anywhere else, even in Ottawa\u2019s plentiful landscape. And now you know the secret handshake, too.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: main dishes from $10 to $17<\/p>\n Green Papaya Salad with Vietnamese Beef Jerky<\/p>\n An airy nest of long, thin ribbons of green papaya and carrot with cilantro, topped by delicate shards of sweet-and-savoury beef, dressed with fish sauce.<\/p>\n B\u00fan with Meatballs<\/p>\n Rice vermicelli topped with a neat row of taut, bouncy pork meatballs, their char enhanced by a touch of honey.<\/p>\n Spicy Sate Soup with Chicken or Beef<\/p>\n The herbal, floral heat builds with each spoonful \u2013 enough to make you question your life choices, but not so much that you regret them.<\/p>\n Toronto<\/p>\n Batifole<\/p>\n Transporting diners to France \u2013 with local charmBy Ann Hui<\/p>\n Visuals by Chloe Lukas \/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n Above a pair of grinning ceramic cats in the basement at Batifole, on the way to the bathroom, is a chalkboard sign that displays the restaurant\u2019s cheeky slogan: \u201cBest French food in Chinatown.\u201d<\/p>\n It\u2019s this kind of polished but unpretentious, excellent but unfussy approach that\u2019s kept Batifole running for 22 years \u2013 and turned the French bistro into a city staple and local favourite.<\/p>\n Back in the early aughts, Pascal Geffroy, then a 36-year-old French chef from Provence, visited and fell in love with Toronto. In 2013, he decided to take over the existing Batifole, what was already a 30-seat French bistro located on an unassuming stretch of Gerrard East surrounded by cellphone stores, Chinese herbal shops and pho restaurants.<\/p>\n From there, he\u2019s built an east-end institution. The menu is small, and focused on classic French staples: beef tartare on crackling crostinis; duck confit, rich and fatty on creamy cassoulet; and foie gras terrine with homemade brioche.<\/p>\n From the French flag displayed proudly in the front foyer, to the certificate from the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France that Geffroy won back in 2004, to the background chatter from the French-speaking servers, everything at this restaurant screams French, French, French.<\/p>\n But look closer and there are nods throughout to this city, and the restaurant\u2019s East Chinatown location. Case in point is the produce, all purchased from nearby Chinese grocers, such as green onions to garnish the cassoulet and sesame seeds on the scallops, served with sesame Hollandaise (made with sesame oil instead of butter).<\/p>\n \u201cI like to make the classics, with a twist of modernization,\u201d says Geffroy.<\/p>\n And what keeps locals coming back isn\u2019t just the food, but the feeling. The dining room is filled with regulars \u2013 the silver-haired Riverdalers enjoying a pre-theatre meal; the Leslieville moms meeting for an after-work ros\u00e9; the young couple with a kindergartener in tow. The space is deliberately laid-back, with walls decorated in vintage copper pans and flea market finds, some chipped paint here, a ceramic rooster there \u2013 eccentricities that only further endear it to locals.<\/p>\n (Speaking of eccentric, here\u2019s a fun fact: The lamp from A Christmas Story that\u2019s displayed in the back of the restaurant \u2013 that classic stocking-leg with the fringed shade \u2013 isn\u2019t just another antique market treasure. The scene from the 1983 Christmas classic, where the family eats at a Chinese restaurant, was filmed in this very space.)<\/p>\n On most nights, Geffroy plays the convivial host. He makes the rounds in the dining room, warm and chatty, and charming to regulars and newcomers alike. Because while refinement matters, what matters even more, he said, is that customers feel relaxed.<\/p>\n \u201cI like for people to feel like they\u2019re coming home,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: main dishes from $32 for the beef tartare to $68 for the hangar steak.<\/p>\n Pan-seared Scallops<\/p>\n Perfectly seared, sesame-crusted giant Japanese sea scallops with buttery parsnip pur\u00e9e and a sesame \u201cHollandaise.\u201d There are two scallops per order, but I\u2019d happily double it (or hey, triple it) and call it a main.<\/p>\n Fish Stew<\/p>\n This dish, which was a special on both my visits, should very well be a menu staple. Juicy pieces of lobster, wine-drunk mussels and artichokes are served in a shellfish and creamy tarragon sauce. Ask for an extra order of bread to mop up the sauce.<\/p>\n Souffl\u00e9<\/p>\n The menu warns that this takes at least 20 minutes to prepare, but don\u2019t let that put you off. The souffl\u00e9 here is textbook. A crisp, golden top. Perfect rise. And, when you break the crust with your spoon, a tiny exhale of sweet, custardy steam. Served with a Grand Marnier ice cream, it\u2019s like climbing into a warm, pillowy-soft cloud.<\/p>\n Toronto<\/p>\n Foxley Bistro<\/p>\n A consistent west-end favourite loved by chefsBy Visuals by Alice Xue\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n The restaurants that have come and gone on Toronto\u2019s Ossington strip are like a list of forgotten food trends. Craft mac and cheese. Breakfast tacos. Bulgogi cheesesteaks. And today, a trip to Ossington is not complete without navigating a traffic jam of lineups for all of the Instagrammy new places, from ice cream sammies to stone-ground matcha.<\/p>\n But throughout it all, one restaurant \u2013 Foxley Bistro \u2013 has somehow remained constant.<\/p>\n Chef Tom Thai\u2019s west-end fixture has quietly made a name for itself as perhaps the antithesis to Ossington buzz. There are no gimmicks here. No fads. Just consistent, reliably delicious, big, bold flavours from a mix of Southeast Asian and Latin American cuisines. The plates are small and meant for sharing, and the roster of dishes has remained the same, for the most part, since the start. There\u2019s the Arctic char ceviche and the sticky, sweet pork side ribs, for example, or the crispy lamb dumplings.<\/p>\n It\u2019s a menu that, after almost 20 years in business, is pretty much down to just the greatest hits, said Thai. \u201cEverything on the menu is someone\u2019s favourite,\u201d he said. \u201cIf it\u2019s not broken, there\u2019s no point in changing it.\u201d<\/p>\n His clientele includes some of the city\u2019s top chefs. Thai explains this in his characteristically humble manner: Foxley has always been open on Mondays, when most other restaurants are closed. So chefs began eating there. They liked the flavours, and kept coming.<\/p>\n The service here is warm, quick and endearingly casual \u2013 like you\u2019re part of the family. On more than one occasion, my requests were met by my server with a simple thumbs-up. But you\u2019ll trust them implicitly: Not only did he not try to upsell me, he even cautioned against over-ordering.<\/p>\n It\u2019s the perfect neighbourhood restaurant \u2013 even for those who don\u2019t live in the neighbourhood. On one visit, I overheard a couple at a table next to me bemoaning their move to the east end. As a result, they hadn\u2019t been back at Foxley in years.<\/p>\n \u201cWe\u2019ve been here since 2007,\u201d said the server cheerily. \u201cAnd we\u2019re still just as good.\u201d<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: from $9 to $30, per tapas plate<\/p>\n Arctic Char Ceviche<\/p>\n This one hits all the notes. Fatty slices of Arctic char cured in mouth-puckering citrus, and then served in a miso-chili bath. A small mountain of green apple matchsticks on top add sweetness and crunch. It\u2019s sweet, salty, spicy, acidic \u2013 and addictive.<\/p>\n Baked Eggplant<\/p>\n Half an eggplant slathered in sweet, savoury miso and yuzu, and then roasted until the flesh is tender and melting. It\u2019s served in a cast-iron pan with a small spoon, so you can eat it like ice cream.<\/p>\n Grilled Hangar Steak with Chimichurri<\/p>\n Steak and chimichurri. Simple, right? But Foxley\u2019s version of this classic dish is punched-up with generous doses of lime juice, chili and so, so much garlic.<\/p>\n Vancouver<\/p>\n Chambar<\/p>\n Friendly ambience meets fine-dining valueBy Sara Harowitz<\/p>\n Visuals by Isabella Falsetti\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n When Karri Green and Nico Schuermans opened Chambar back in 2004, they did so with one goal in mind: to deliver fine-dining-quality food without the white-tablecloth pretension. At the time, it was a bold move \u2013 Vancouver was home to many great casual eateries, and many excellent fancy ones, too. But what was missing, they believed, was something in the middle.<\/p>\n \u201cIt was: How do we offer that elevated service, that fine-dining everything \u2013 except no tablecloths or, \u2018Which fork do I use?\u2019\u201d says Green, who is originally from New Zealand. \u201cJust take all the complicated stuff out and have a really good product.\u201d<\/p>\n Twenty-two years later, Chambar remains true to that mission \u2013 and it has made the restaurant one of the most revered in the city.<\/p>\n The kitchen is run by Schuermans, who is from Belgium and cut his teeth at Michelin-starred Brussels restaurants La Villa Lorraine and Comme Chez Soi, as well as at The Savoy hotel in London. His vision for Chambar was to honour traditional French techniques, but to morph them with some of his other culinary influences \u2013 particularly Morocco and the Middle East. As such, Chambar\u2019s menu is a richly layered interpretation of high-class bistro food. Certain dishes, like the lamb tajine and the moules frites (available three ways), have been staples since day one. Also worth mentioning is the extensive beer list, which leans heavily Belgian and will impress even the brewing nerds.<\/p>\n Equally crucial to Chambar\u2019s magic is its atmosphere, which is Green\u2019s domain as principal owner and self-described \u201cqueen bee.\u201d The restaurant\u2019s aesthetic \u2013 exposed brick, glass lighting fixtures from Vancouver\u2019s own Bocci, smooth wooden tables (not a tablecloth in sight), shiny leather banquettes \u2013 immediately sets the tone: this is a place in which to hang out. To have fun. To indulge a little. The name of the restaurant, in fact, is foundational to this ethos: the colloquial French word is used to describe the scene of convivial chaos that takes place, as Green describes it, \u201cwhen the teacher leaves the room and all the kids go crazy.\u201d<\/p>\n Service plays into this feeling, too, with food arriving fast and piping hot, and every staff member seeming genuinely happy to chat. \u201cYou come to get out of your house and leave your day at the door,\u201d says Green. \u201cAnd we ask our staff to do the same.\u201d<\/p>\n Green and Schuermans met while they were both living in Australia and decided to move to Vancouver together. Although they are no longer a couple, they remain business partners and have three children, aged 20, 18 and 13 \u2013 all of whom have worked in the restaurant.<\/p>\n Throughout its impressively long tenure, Chambar has stayed true to its values: come as you are, eat well, leave satisfied. Portions are generous, with healthy amounts of protein and vegetables, and very little starchy or carby filler. And prices are fair. Green and Schuermans also recently launched a weekly three-course set menu for just $28. Even in 2004 that would have been a smoking deal.<\/p>\n If you go, try<\/p>\n Price range: small plates starting at $24; large plates from $35-$49<\/p>\n Ch\u00e8vre Chaud<\/p>\n French goat cheese is baked until gooey and bubbling, and served with bouncy house-made focaccia and a knockout espelette pepper-infused honey.<\/p>\n Tajine d\u2019Aziz \u00e0 l\u2019Agneau<\/p>\n Fall-off-the-bone braised lamb shank is presented on a bed of fluffy almond couscous alongside sweet figs, fresh cilantro, and fragrant cinnamon.<\/p>\n Pomme Frites<\/p>\n Yes, they are that good. A heaping bowl overflows with crispy French fries dusted with addictive seasoning salt.<\/p>\n Ucluelet, B.C.<\/p>\n Heartwood Kitchen<\/p>\n Scratch-made brunch in a cottage-style heritage home on Vancouver IslandBy Andrew Findlay<\/p>\n Visuals by Melissa Renwick\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n There are some things you can count on in Ucluelet. Like surfboards strapped to car roofs, the briny ocean scent misting through cedars, and an occasional rainforest deluge to send tourists scurrying for cover.<\/p>\n There\u2019s another in this small community on Vancouver Island\u2019s rugged West Coast \u2013 a line of people snaking onto the sidewalk and waiting for a table at Heartwood Kitchen. This beloved breakfast and brunch eatery is a long-standing locals\u2019 favourite. For visitors, all roads seem to lead to the converted heritage house that is home to Heartwood. Its wood-sided exterior, painted bright yellow, beckons like a beacon.<\/p>\n Chef Ian Riddick and his wife Heather Riddick, along with their friend Anthony Pugh, fellow chef and carpenter, form the dynamic trio of owners behind Heartwood.<\/p>\n \u201cIan\u2019s a classically trained chef. He went to George Brown College, trained with chef John Higgins, and worked at the King Edward in Toronto,\u201d says Heather. \u201cNow he\u2019s known for fried chicken and French toast.\u201d<\/p>\n In 2013, after Ian landed a job as executive chef at Long Beach Lodge Resort, the Riddicks moved to Ucluelet, known locally as Ukee. But the couple also had an entrepreneurial itch to scratch and started forging the dream of opening their own restaurant with Pugh.<\/p>\n The stars aligned when a for-sale sign went up in front of the century-old Matterson House, which at various times had been a family home, an air force officer\u2019s mess during the Second World War, a church property holding and a restaurant. Heather says the price was too good to pass up for a heritage house that came with a backyard botanical garden of brilliant rhododendrons ideal for special event catering. Pugh donned his tool belt for renovations and in 2018 Heartwood opened its doors.<\/p>\n The menu is as unpretentious as a greasy plaid shirt on a logger. It features items that you\u2019d find at breakfast diners from coast to coast. However, it\u2019s the attention to detail and unique twists on standard offerings that make Heartwood special. Ian buys pork loin and cures peameal bacon in-house, a nod to his culinary roots browsing for ingredients at Toronto\u2019s St. Lawrence Market. The hot sauce is also house made. At under $40 taxes and tip in, including a bottomless cup of filtered coffee, the price is as right as rain in Ukee.<\/p>\n
\n Quebec City<\/a>
\n Halifax<\/a>
\n Charlottetown<\/a>
\n Newfoundland<\/a>
\n Ottawa<\/a>
\n Toronto<\/a>
\n Vancouver<\/a>
\n Ucluelet<\/a>
\n Winnipeg<\/a>
\n Edmonton<\/a><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/16-9-byblos-le-petite-cafe.jpg\")
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\n H\u00e9m\u00e9la Pourafzal and her family have served traditional Iranian brunch for over three decades in Le Plateau-Mont-Royal.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-byblos-le-petite-cafe-3.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Feta](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-byblos-le-petite-cafe-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Koukou](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-byblos-le-petite-cafe-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Borani](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-byblos-le-petite-cafe-6.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-restaurant-wong-1.jpg\")
\n Chef Steven Wong balances heritage while exploring with dishes like Asian-style burrata or Quebec bison and pork egg rolls.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-restaurant-wong-2.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n![\"Beyaynetu\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-aster-cafe-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Lamb](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-aster-cafe-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Doro\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-aster-cafe-6.jpg\")
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\n Owner Ryan Abdallah, whose family brought Lebanese cuisine to Charlottetown, makes Cedar\u2019s stand out with large portions.<\/p>\n![\"Cedar\u2019s](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-cedars-eatery-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Halloumi](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-cedars-eatery-5.jpg\")
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\n Peyton<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-fork-restaurant-1.jpg\")
\n Husband-and-wife team Kayla O\u2019Brien and Kyle Puddester turned their pop-up into a seaside farm-to-table escape.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-fork-restaurant-2.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-fork-restaurant-3.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Fork](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-fork-restaurant-4.jpg\")
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\n Husband-and-wife owners Kim Luu and Huong Nguyen created unique Vietnamese dishes to stand out from the rest.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-huongs-vietnamese-bistro-2.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n![\"Green](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-huongs-vietnamese-bistro-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"B\u00fan](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-huongs-vietnamese-bistro-6.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Spicy](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-huongs-vietnamese-bistro-7.jpg\")
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\n The hospitable chef Pascal Geffroy serves traditional French food at his laid-back Leslieville institution.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-batifole-2.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-batifole-3.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Batifole](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-batifole-4.jpg\")
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\n Ann Hui<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-foxley-bistro-1.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-foxley-bistro-2.jpg\")
\n Chef Tom Thai treats everyone like family in his charmingly casual spot on Ossington.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-foxley-bistro-3.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Foxley](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-foxley-bistro-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Foxley](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-foxley-bistro-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Foxley](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-foxley-bistro-6.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-chambar-1.jpg\")
\n This award-winning restaurant co-founded by Karri Green and Nico Schuermans has been a decades-long staple in Vancouver\u2019s Chinatown.<\/p>\n![\"\"\/](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-chambar-2.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n![\"Chambar](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-chambar-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Chambar](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-chambar-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Chambar](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-chambar-6.jpg\")
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\n At this bright-yellow eatery started by friends Anthony Pugh, Ian Riddick and Heather Riddick, outdoorsy diners enjoy hearty brunches.<\/p>\n
![\"Heartwood](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-heartwood-kitchen-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Heartwood](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-heartwood-kitchen-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Heartwood](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-heartwood-kitchen-6.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n![\"Warm](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-bernsteins-deli-4.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Chopped](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-bernsteins-deli-5.jpg\")
<\/p>\n![\"Tongue](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/2-3-bernsteins-deli-6.jpg\")
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<\/p>\n![\"Weiner](\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/07\/4-5-bistro-praha-4.jpg\")
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