{"id":863870,"date":"2026-08-19T15:14:09","date_gmt":"2026-08-19T15:14:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/863870\/"},"modified":"2026-08-19T15:14:09","modified_gmt":"2026-08-19T15:14:09","slug":"discover-the-tuscan-seaside-resort-beloved-by-italys-upper-class","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/863870\/","title":{"rendered":"Discover the Tuscan seaside resort beloved by Italy\u2019s upper class"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a style=\"display:block\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/resizer\/v2\/RCG75UMZKFAURI5PCIOIYNUNNQ.jpeg?auth=58ffe564e4f5fbaa2f05aff4bd974c6705043bfb65e2255d3f525468f4433971&amp;width=600&amp;height=400&amp;quality=80&amp;smart=true\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" data-photo-viewer-index=\"0\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Open this photo in gallery:<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"figcap-text\">Hotel Byron is seen in Forte dei Marmi, Italy.Supplied<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">\u201cI\u2019m sorry.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Before we\u2019ve even ordered lunch, Salvatore Madonna has spotted something I completely missed.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">He smooths a hand across the crisp white tablecloth beside Hotel Byron\u2019s pool, studying the slightest indentation in the linen before quietly suggesting another table.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">It\u2019s an almost imperceptible gesture, but one that tells me everything I need to know about life in Forte dei Marmi. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">In this Tuscan seaside town, where generations of artists, literary giants and celebrities have come to escape the spotlight, luxury speaks softly.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Mr. Madonna is the owner of Hotel Byron, a boutique hotel set inside a graceful villa built in 1892 as the summer home of an Italian noble family. Named after the English poet Lord Byron, who travelled through this corner of Tuscany in the early 19th century, the property has been in the Madonna family since 1990.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Over plates of freshly caught seafood, he explains why generations of Italy\u2019s wealthiest families have returned here every summer.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text mv-16 l-inset text-pb-8\" data-sophi-feature=\"interstitial\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/travel\/article-in-tuscany-i-learned-to-roll-with-the-ups-and-downs-on-a-cycling\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">In Tuscany, I learned to roll with the ups and downs on a cycling adventure<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">\u201cPeople arrive with their Ferraris,\u201d he says. \u201cThey park their car, put on shorts and a T-shirt, get on bicycles and go around the town. They don\u2019t need to show off.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Then he smiles.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">\u201cI was brought here by my father. I brought my children here. Probably they will bring their children, too.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><a style=\"display:block\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/resizer\/v2\/VGAQMOYPWBFMBOEKB7RH3K7PBE.jpeg?auth=baae53dd2a030e158ea8e6af42450843c357c568234d3a16058dcf2efd23d8dc&amp;width=600&amp;height=400&amp;quality=80&amp;smart=true\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" data-photo-viewer-index=\"1\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Open this photo in gallery:<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"figcap-text\">Named after the English poet Lord Byron, the hotel is set inside a villa built in 1892 as the summer home of an Italian noble family.Supplied\/Supplied<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Unlike Capri, Portofino or the Amalfi Coast, where overtourism has transformed summer into spectacle, Forte dei Marmi remains remarkably Italian and largely unknown to North Americans. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">The Agnelli family, founders of the Fiat automotive empire, spent their summers here, along with late fashion designer Giorgio Armani, tenor Andrea Bocelli and public figures who prize discretion over display.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Forte dei Marmi takes its name from the Fortino, an 18th-century fortress built to both defend the coast and support Tuscany\u2019s flourishing marble trade. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">For centuries, enormous blocks of marble were dragged down from the Apuan Alps and gathered beside the sea before beginning their journey across Europe. The town\u2019s pier, completed in the late 19th century, was built to simplify that final step \u2013 loading some of the world\u2019s most coveted stone onto waiting ships. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Today, the 275-metre pier offers one of the best views in town. Surfers wait patiently for waves, fishermen cast lines into the sea and couples linger at sunset, with the marble mountains forming a dramatic backdrop.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Back in the centre of town, life revolves around Piazza Marconi, where one of Italy\u2019s best-known open-air markets takes over every Wednesday morning (and Sundays during the summer). Italians travel from across Tuscany to browse stalls piled high with discounted cashmere, embroidered linens, handmade leather sandals, ceramics and vintage treasures.<\/p>\n<p><a style=\"display:block\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/resizer\/v2\/2DXKQ2ZS2BDGPFCDF6W534FRDQ.jpeg?auth=7c020c7f6459bda7b8198b42a0e3cc4f3cce2390075b308e6dc24ee7d4ee4714&amp;width=600&amp;height=400&amp;quality=80&amp;smart=true\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" data-photo-viewer-index=\"2\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Open this photo in gallery:<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"figcap-text\">Forte dei Marmi\u2019s famous Wednesday market draws shoppers from across Italy.Hamed Sanei\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Here, impeccably coiffed signore glide past on bicycles carrying baskets with flowers, while men in linen shirts the colour of salmon and cloudless skies somehow never break a bead of sweat.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">By afternoon, life shifts toward the sea. Elegant beach clubs stretch along the shoreline, from glamorous outlets charging hundreds of euros for a private cabana to the municipal Le Dune del Forte, where you can book a sunbed for about \u20ac30.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Or simply cycle 10 minutes west along the waterfront promenade to Spiaggia Libera Le Dune, one of Forte dei Marmi\u2019s free public beaches, where locals spread towels beside the sea without spending a euro. Either way, the backdrop is the same: the Tyrrhenian Sea on one side and the impossible-to-ignore Apuan Alps on the other.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">At first glance they appear capped with snow, until you realize the dazzling white mountains, veined with soft grey, are solid marble, the same prized stone the ancient Romans quarried and Michelangelo personally selected before carving David. <\/p>\n<p><a style=\"display:block\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/resizer\/v2\/K5SJUZHHA5F2FGRGF5FVVLIB74.jpeg?auth=8880a5097ab4540f7fd25bc428f1cd7866f5213857818ec03a12f8abaf7af19b&amp;width=600&amp;height=400&amp;quality=80&amp;smart=true\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" data-photo-viewer-index=\"3\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Open this photo in gallery:<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"figcap-text\">The marble quarries of Carrara.Hamed Sanei\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Thanks to its exceptionally fine crystal structure, marble from the Tuscan town of Carrara allowed sculptors to carve delicate fingers, flowing drapery and expressive faces without the stone fracturing. Today, it remains one of the world\u2019s most prized building materials.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">The best part is Carrara is only about 30 minutes away from Forte dei Marmi. Soon after leaving the beach, I\u2019m rattling up the mountain in a four-by-four on a \u20ac15 guided tour of the quarries. Visitors can also choose rugged jeep safaris that venture deeper into the mountains or guided hikes led by geologists.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Nearly 200 quarries are scattered across these mountains. Most of the range is now protected within the Apuan Alps Regional Park, part of the UNESCO Global Geoparks Network, leaving only a small portion available for marble extraction.<\/p>\n<p><a style=\"display:block\" href=\"https:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/resizer\/v2\/QU5LJ6NIZNA3DNZOQ7LY5LDACI.jpeg?auth=5c7ee846bac6f630b615fa9d4de6e8c95a5c323e7a3d0a1677f3330b98039b04&amp;width=600&amp;height=400&amp;quality=80&amp;smart=true\" aria-haspopup=\"true\" data-photo-viewer-index=\"4\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Open this photo in gallery:<\/a><\/p>\n<p class=\"figcap-text\">Designed by sculptor Baccio Bandinelli, this fountain in Carrara\u2019s Piazza del Duomo depicts the Genoese admiral Andrea Doria as Neptune.Hamed Sanei\/The Globe and Mail<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Here I learn that modern quarrying is remarkably precise. Instead of blasting the mountain apart, workers use steel cables embedded with industrial diamonds to slice through the stone. Yet every cut remains a gamble: hidden fractures stay invisible until a block finally breaks free.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Almost nothing goes to waste. Even broken marble is crushed into calcium carbonate and recycled into everything from toothpaste and cosmetics to paint and paper.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">A few kilometres farther lies Colonnata, where marble shapes the local cuisine as well as the landscape. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Quarrymen once survived on bread and lardo di Colonnata, pork fat cured for months inside hand-carved marble vats. Today that humble lunch carries Protected Geographical Indication status and is considered one of Tuscany\u2019s prized delicacies.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">It\u2019s already evening when I arrive for dinner in Pietrasanta, a medieval town only seven minutes away from the centre of Forte dei Marmi. Known as Little Athens, the town has become a centre of marble sculpture, drawing artists from every continent.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Its streets feel like an open-air museum. Monumental sculptures rise beside ancient churches, while behind modest workshop doors, hammers still ring against marble as they have for generations.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">As dusk settles over the piazza, marble dust catches the last of the light before drifting softly into the evening air.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Only a few hours earlier, I had watched those same mountains surrender another flawless block of stone.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Here, I watch someone begin the slow work of setting free the sculpture within.<\/p>\n<p>If you go<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">The closest airport to Forte dei Marmi is Pisa International Airport, a 40-minute drive away. Alternatively, fly into Florence Airport, about a 90-minute drive. If arriving by train, the seaside town is about three hours from Rome or about two hours from Florence. The Forte dei Marmi\u2013Seravezza\u2013Querceta rail station is about four kilometres from the town centre. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">Once in Forte dei Marmi, most visitors get around by bicycle. Rental bikes are widely available and the town\u2019s flat terrain and dedicated cycling paths make them the easiest way to explore. Guided excursions or a rental car are the best way to visit nearby Carrara, Pietrasanta and the Versilia coast.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-article-body__text text-pr-5\">The writer received a two-night stay at Hotel Byron, which did not review or approve this article. Stories are based on merit; The Globe does not guarantee coverage. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Open this photo in gallery: Hotel Byron is seen in Forte dei Marmi, Italy.Supplied \u201cI\u2019m sorry.\u201d Before we\u2019ve&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":863871,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[49,48,75,2922,216998],"class_list":["post-863870","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-ca","tag-canada","tag-entertainment","tag-noastack","tag-ordid3949835265"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/863870","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=863870"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/863870\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/863871"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=863870"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=863870"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ca\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=863870"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}