I spent a week walking the Donegal Camino — here are the moments that stood out

The rain poured down as we trudged along a tiny country road across the Urris Hills to Dunree Fort in Inishowen in the far north of the country. Nearly 100 brave souls were on the walk, part of the hugely successful Donegal Camino, and as I turned round all I could hear was chat and laughter.

In the previous four years of the camino, walkers were blessed with Indian summer conditions, with the temperature getting as high as 26°C. Not this year.

But the torrential rain on the second day of this week-long event did not dampen the spirits of those taking part.

In just five years the Donegal Camino has blossomed into one of the most successful and unique walking festivals in the country.

Not only does it show off the magnificent scenery on offer in Ireland’s most northernly — and some would argue most beautiful — county, but it has now raised nearly €400,000 in total for the Letterkenny Support Centre of Cancer Care West. a charity that cares for patients and their families in the West of Ireland.

It’s not just Donegal people who take part. One couple in their 70s flew all the way from Kansas in the USA after hearing about the camino from a friend who read about it online.

“We were looking for adventure,” said Pam Shannon, 72. “It has been amazing.” 

On the road to Inishowen

There were others from America, Poland, the Czech Republic, the UK and from most counties in Ireland. One group of young women from Dublin was back for a second year.

Some of those walking had battled cancer themselves or were walking in memory of past sufferers.

Elizabeth Doherty, from Stranorlar, Donegal, wore a T-shirt with a photo of her late beloved brother Tom on the front. The father of two passed away from colon cancer in August last year, aged 49.

“He was from Donegal but lived in Scotland for the last 20 years. He got the diagnosis in May 2023 of stage 4 colon cancer. He had rounds of chemo but it was inoperable. It was too far gone,” said Elizabeth. “A couple of months ago I was thinking, what can I do? I need to do something. Then my younger brother Stephen sent me something on the Donegal Camino. It was absolutely what I wanted to do.

“Tom and I did a couple of hikes together so he would appreciate it and he loved Donegal. He was very proud of Donegal. His mates helped with fundraising and they told me Tom was so proud of where he was from.”

Elizabeth Doherty with a photo of brother, Tom.

Elizabeth loved her four days on the camino: “There was a great atmosphere, lovely people, great craic, a bit of song, a bit of dance, and I came away from the first day feeling very uplifted.

“We had the challenge of the rain on the second day but we got through it but the scenery was beautiful and the company just carries you along.”

The camino was the brainchild of Donegal businesswoman Peggy Stringer, a former nurse for the terminally ill, who wanted to promote her home county for walking holidays while raising funds for local cancer victims.

She recruited her friends Deirdre McGlone, former owner of the renowned Donegal hotel Harvey’s Point, and TV personality Noel Cunningham to help her. Now the walk in the first week of September is firmly established.

“There was something amazing about this year, you could feel it talking to everyone,” said Peggy.

“There was something special, everyone walked as one and talked to everyone. It was more spiritual.

“I walked with one lady who had lost six of her family, her father, brother, three sisters and a nephew to cancer and was in remission herself. It really hit me how much people suffered and just how valuable the Cancer Care West Centre is. She said she could not do without it.”

Daniel O’Donnell, Deirdre McGlone and Noel Cunningham on the Donegal Camino

Daniel O’Donnell, the camino’s most famous supporter, joined the walk on a sunny day on beautiful Arranmore Island and entertained the crowd with a few songs.

“I doubt if there is anyone anywhere in the world that has not been touched by cancer at one time or another,” said Daniel, 63, whose wife Majella was diagnosed with breast cancer in 2013.

“Days like this will make the journey easier for those who, unfortunately, will have to make it. Being here today is an easy thing to do.

“There is a terrific atmosphere. You get chatting to people that you may never have encountered and it’s amazing. It’s a lovely day and a lovely group of people to be gathered with.

“You are not going to meet everyone but everyone meets somebody and everyone has a story. It’s a very positive event for something that is very negative for people. It’s the worst time in somebody’s life and we are here at the best. The scenery and the setting is beautiful so we are blessed.”

Locals gave great support to the walkers sending them off every morning with teas and treats in community halls around the county as they hiked around Inishowen Head, then Lifford to Oakfield Park, Raphoe, up Mount Errigal at 6.30am, a loop around Arranmore Island, Glenties to Ardara along the Owenea River, and finally up the Slieve League Cliffs.

Donegal Camino walkers tackle Slieve League

Roddy’s Bar in Glenties threw a great party for the walkers while local bands and singers provided entertainment along the way with Eurovision star Mickey Joe Harte joining the walkers for a day.

Scottish accordion player Seamus O’Sullivan and Donegal fiddle player Matt McGranaghan were on hand throughout the week.

Other volunteers, like Carndonagh photographer Colm Canny, devote the whole week to the walk.

“I do it because it’s such a good cause and like other families we have been touched with cancer. Cancer Care West provide a vital service,” said Colm.

“But there’s also lots of laughter and chat and I love to capture those moments showing the effort people put in. Donegal Camino are a great team.”

A well-earned pint in Roddy’s Bar

TV’s Noel Cunningham said: “It has been a revelation yet again. It’s very hard to describe, the magic. You listen to the laughter and the chat and the camaraderie and sometimes the tears.

“People often ask me is there a spiritual dimension to our Donegal Camino. It’s like having a dinner party — you sit around the table and all of a sudden the conversation is rich, and exciting, you’re catching up, you’re telling stories, you’re exchanging things that happened to you during the year and most importantly you’re sharing some very personal stuff.

“Everyone on our camino carries some little reason buried deep inside that brought them to Donegal.

“Immersed in this wonderful scenery, our beautiful beaches and hills help people to find somehow or other what they are in search of. The fact we are doing it for such an amazing cancer centre touches a chord with so many people. I am proud to sit on the board and we will be forever grateful to them for bringing that centre to our area because so many people use the services.”

Escape Notes

The Donegal Camino is held every year in the first week of September. See donegalcamino.ie.
Donations can be made via iDonate.ie.
Walkers are in the safe hands of award-winning mountain guide John McGroary (walkingireland.ie) and his team, Joe Coyle, Denis Sheridan and Michael Devaney.
Walkers are encouraged to raise €100 in sponsorship for every day they walk.