Our critic takes a tasty trip down memory lane at this Beara peninsula gem where provenance is a priority

An Síbín in Lauragh, Co Kerry

An Síbín in Lauragh, Co Kerry

I’d forgotten about the tame fox my cousins kept until I saw the cocktail – named The Fox and featuring Valentia Island vermouth, tonic and orange – listed on the menu at An Síbín, Katherine Murphy’s restaurant and wine bar in Lauragh, the sunlight-dappled backdrop to the summer holidays of my childhood.

The small towns and villages of the Beara peninsula – we’d rent houses in Kenmare, Ardgroom and Eyeries, Castletownbere and Allihies – were the places this temporary blow-in from England yearned for all year long.