We try some of the best – and worst – versions on the market

Supermarket feta cheese
Feta cheese has had EU Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status since 2002. It has to be produced from sheep/goat’s milk – goat’s milk can make up a maximum of 30pc – either on mainland Greece or the island of Lesbos. There are strict rules regarding production methods, including a two-month minimum ageing period.
Traditionally, feta was aged in beechwood barrels, and barrel-aged feta attracts a premium price. Depending on how you plan to use the cheese, you might select a cheaper, non-barrel-aged feta cheese. In cooking, it will be hard to tell the difference – in a salad, it might be worth splurging.