A new chef is at the helm of The Sea Rooms at the fabulous Kelly’s Resort Hotel and Spa in Rosslare, keeping it going from strength to strength, writes our critic

Smoked honey glazed carrots, buttermilk sauce, almond and thyme. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan

Smoked honey glazed carrots, buttermilk sauce, almond and thyme. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan

Come the first signs of spring each year, this roving restaurant critic always gets itchy feet as the urge rises to get on the road again. The timing also tends to coincide with the annual reopening of Kelly’s Resort Hotel in Rosslare, following a period of winter closure during which they recharge, revamp or add some new feature to their facilities. It really is a spectacular operation. Having started as a tea rooms in 1895, five generations of Kelly’s later, it’s more than a hotel, it’s more than a resort, it’s become a destination for generations of families to commune, holiday and celebrate together. With its stunning beachside location, I always think of it as a great luxurious ship moored in paradise, incorporating every entertainment and facility you could possibly want.

Never standing still, three years ago Bill Kelly, with his daughters Laura and more recently Grace now on board, launched The Sea Rooms – an ultra-contemporary, spectacular glass-box restaurant nestled in their neo subtropical gardens, with a gorgeous outdoor dining area as well, providing guests with a fourth dining option without ‘going ashore’.