Our critic enjoys the warm hospitality and some good food, but the wine list needs a revamp

A selection of dishes from Cala

A selection of dishes from Cala

Dún Laoghaire is a town of two halves. The folk who flock here at weekends to walk the piers, eat from market stalls and drink coffee on the terrace of Happy Out, located in the old baths, are envious of those who live here.

Yet the main drag, which runs all the way from the People’s Park at one end, past the behemoth of a (largely empty) shopping centre hulking over the nominal town centre, to the Carnegie Library and the junction with York Road, which marks the town border, is a depressing stretch.