Published on December 31, 2025
Jaeger-LeCoultre/Breguet/Urwerk
The world’s top watchmakers embraced the spirit of giving this holiday season, giving collectors both new models and revamped classics in December.
Breguet entered into new horological territory, presenting a high-frequency tourbillon that can beat at a blistering rate of 10 Hz, or double the industry standard. Urwerk debuted its third and final UR-230, introducing a newly developed composite ceramic with shimmering reflective elements. Vacheron Constantin unveiled two diamond-less versions of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the first gem-set Overseas, taking sparkles from one collection and adding them to another.
That’s not all. A. Lange & Sӧhne and Jacob & Co. both reimagined old favorites in fresh colorways, with one incorporating “honeygold” and the other weaving in blue PVD steel and neon yellow. Last but not least, Roger Dubuis and TAG Heuer released reimagined references with trusted, long-time collaborators.
Below are the best watch releases of the month.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle and Overseas
Image Credit: Charles-Elie Lathion/Vacheron Constantin
In a season typically full of sparkle, Vacheron Constantin went against tradition and unveiled its first non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches in the 36.5 mm case size. Introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2022, the original Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was positioned as a high-complication women’s watch with a mother-of-pearl dial and a diamond-set bezel. The new references are more gender-neutral, with silver-toned opaline dials and simple gold cases. Inside lies the in-house self-winding movement (Calibre 1120 QP) with a perpetual calendar and a moon phase. The first is 18-karat pink gold ($100,000), the second is 18-karat white gold ($100,000), and the third is 18-karat white gold with a diamond-set bezel ($102,000). All three carry a special emblem in honor of the maison’s 270th anniversary.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas High Jewelry
Vacheron Constantin
VC didn’t ditch gems completely in December, though. The watchmaker dropped two high-jewelry versions of the 35 mm Overseas timepiece that was unveiled in 2023. Presented in either 18-karat white or pink gold, the newcomer is adorned with 1,430 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds totaling 12.58 carats. Stones run across the case, dial, bracelet, and buckle, creating a truly dazzling statement on the wrist. The beating heart is an in-house self-winding movement (calibre 1088/1) with a 40-hour power reserve, which displays the hours, minutes, central seconds, and date. Price on request, of course.
TAG Heuer x Fragment Carrera Chronograph
Image Credit: TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer and Fragment are at it again. The Swiss watchmaker and Hiroshi Fujiwara’s streetwear brand unveiled a third collab timepiece in December. As with the co-branded references released in 2018 and 2020, the new Carrera chronograph has been totally Fragment-fied with Fujiwara’s signature pared-back design and high-contrast black-and-white palette. A riff on the vintage Heuer “glass box” Carreras from the 1960s, the newcomer features a 39 mm steel case, a black opalin dial, a white curved flange, and a steel beads-of-rice bracelet with a black PVD-coated center link. Fragment’s lightning bolt logo appears on the custom date disc and sapphire caseback, while the brand name sits at 6 o’clock. Inside beats an in-house automatic movement (Calibre TH20-00) with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Limited to 500, the chrono is priced at $9,050 but is currently sold out online.
Urwerk UR-230 “Black Star”
Image Credit: Urwerk
Urwerk’s third and final UR-230 model, the “Black Star,” is supposed to emulate the imagined collapse of a star in which light vanishes, before returning in random flashes. The 44.8 mm case is crafted from a newly developed laminated composite ceramic that is illuminated with sparkling dots, resulting in a vibrant black-light texture. “This black is not there to conceal. It breathes. It makes light appear in a setting of shadows,” says Urwerk’s artistic director and cofounder Martin Frei. The case is accompanied by a black DLC titanium caseback, creating what Urwerk describes as a “mechanical safe” for the calibre UR-7.30. The movement features the brand’s signature wandering hours display with 3-D retrograde minutes, as well as a dual turbine system that regulates—or can even deactivate—automatic winding. Limited to just 35 pieces, the Black Star is priced at $198,000.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic
Image Credit: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre knows a lot can happen in horology in 30 years. That is perhaps why the Swiss watchmaker has unveiled a larger, more technically advanced version of the Master Control timepiece that it released in 1995. The aptly named Master Control Classic showcases the same elegant, minimalistic aesthetic as the original, with a steel case, a silver-colored sunray dial, elongated triangular indexes, Dauphine hands, and a brown ostrich strap. It is, however, two millimeters larger than its predecessor, with a 36 mm diameter that makes it slightly more versatile. It is also equipped with the latest version of the Calibre 899. The self-winding movement has been refined over the past two decades, with the newest iteration offering a 70-hour power reserve and greater stability in timekeeping. The newcomer was, of course, tested under JLC’s 1,000-Hour Control protocol—that explains the name—with extensive checks carried out across six weeks to ensure quality and precision. Limited to 500 examples, the new reference costs $8,950.
Breguet Expérimentale 1
Image Credit: Breguet
Breguet shifted up a gear in December, unveiling its first high-frequency tourbillon. The debut piece in a new collection from the brand’s research and development department, the Expérimentale 1 takes design cues from the Marine collection and Breguet timepieces from the 1800s, but has a fresh caliber at its core. The high-frequency (10 Hz) tourbillon, which features a magnetic escapement with constant force delivered to the balance, beats at a blistering rate of 10 Hz, or 72,000 vph. That is more than double the industry standard of 4 Hz, or 28,800 vph, with most traditional tourbillons running at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, or 18,000 vph. The watch also boasts a high chronometric rating, with a guaranteed accuracy of +/- 1 second over 24 hours. It looks good, too, with a 43.5 mm pink-gold case and a sapphire dial that provides a full view of the new Caliber 7250. Limited to 75 examples, the Expérimentale 1 costs a cool 320,000 Swiss francs, or about $405,000.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Mexico Edition
Image Credit: Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis rolled out another collab piece with long-time partner Pirelli this month. The limited-edition chronograph pays homage to motorsport in Mexico, showcasing the colors of the Mexican flag. As with previous cobranded creations, the watch comes with a rubber strap made from parts of Pirelli tires that have competed in actual races. It also features a stealthy 45 mm black carbon case and a striking open-worked dial that spotlights the ingenious mechanics within. The racing-inspired movement (caliber RD780) includes two patent-pending innovations: one is a 120-degree rotating minute counter with a tripartite hand that carries the digits 0, 1, and 2 across a fixed scale of 0-9, the other is a second braking system that is integrated into the vertical clutch. Limited to only 28 examples, the chronograph is priced at $101,500.
A. Lange & Sӧhne Lange 1 Daymatic “Honeygold”
Image Credit: A. Lange & Sӧhne
A. Lange & Sӧhne gave us a little glitz and glamour in December, releasing the Lange 1 Daymatic in its signature “Honeygold.” Everything from the 39.5 mm case to the lugs, pushers, and crown is crafted from the watchmaker’s proprietary blend of 18-karat yellow gold alloy. Flip it over, and the automatic movement (Caliber L021.1) shines bright, too, with a 22-karat gold rotor that is engraved with the brand’s logo. The dial, meanwhile, showcases a rich brown hue, matching subdials, and Honeygold accents. In addition to an hour-and-minute display and a subsidiary seconds indicator, the face is equipped with an oversized date window and a retrograde day-of-the-week indicator. The elegant newcomer is limited to 250 numbered examples, with price available upon request.
Jacob & Co. Epic X Sport
Image Credit: Jacob & Co.
There was no missing Jacob & Co.’s new release this month. The latest Epic X Sport showcases a bold colorway, combining a blue PVD steel case, a navy diamond-patterned dial, and a neon yellow rubber strap. At the heart of the 41 mm timepiece lies the caliber JCHA01, with an in-house rotor that keeps time effortlessly and offers a 70-hour power reserve for weekend-proof autonomy. You can also expect everyday reliability and extreme precision even after days spent off the wrist, according to the American outfitter. Price upon request, but expect to pay in the five figures.