Finally getting the international kudos that it always deserved, John and Sandy Wyer’s newly-starred restaurant is a truly ethereal experience, writes our critic
Forest Avenue interior. PHoto: Lucinda O’Sullivan.
“Is this the best food you’ve ever had?” my friend, the fashionista, said quizzically almost to herself, whilst ecstatically savouring a croissant pudding with pumpkin caramel and manzanilla, at the tail end of what had been a stunning tasting menu. There’s no doubt it was one of the most memorable experiences I’ve had, and I’ve had quite a few in my 30 years as a restaurant critic.
We’d worked our way through a series of faultless exquisite dishes, each one a work of art, each one displaying depths of flavour and skill, and each one perfectly chosen to lead seamlessly into the next. Not only that, with tasting menus topping €200-plus in many high-end restaurants these days, this ethereal experience came in at a mere €89.