We try some of the best – and worst – versions on the market

Hummus taste test
Is Yotam Ottolenghi to blame for the ascendancy of hummus from a niche product found only in health food stores to a supermarket staple? The chickpea-based vegan dip is now ubiquitous, and no ‘picky bits’ dinner is complete without a blob of the beige stuff.
Classic hummus is made with extra-virgin olive oil, but all of the hummus/houmous – the spelling is not consistent – we tested used cheaper rapeseed oil.