The Pubs of Cork: ‘It’s a lifestyle more than a job… people love the pub history’

Many pubs in the town of Kinsale carry names that reflect its embattled history and its rich maritime traditions – the beautiful, historical building that hosts The Spaniard Inn is no different.

Well known for its fine fare and traditional interior, ‘The Spaniard’ draws crowds to the door every year to experience some of the ambiance within.

Many owners may have come and gone over the decades, but the name over the door remains that of the Spanish commander, Don Juan D’Aquila.

In the year 1601, a Spanish Armada of 3,800 men landed in Kinsale. Their mission to strengthen the Irish army in the battle against the English was unsuccessful.

The Irish awaited the Spanish on the north coast of Ireland. As they marched south to the Spanish, Don Juan D’Aquila held the town from the siege of the English.

The ensuing Battle of Kinsale saw the defeat of the Irish and the surrender of the Spanish army.

Today, The Spaniard Inn is in the care of Mary Harty and David Shaw.

A mural on the bend of The Spaniard Inn in Kinsale, where many punters sit outside in the summer months

Mary grew up in her family’s pub in Tralee, McSweeneys, as it was then, and says pub life is in her DNA.

David’s mum is from Gratton Street in Cork city and he sees the pub like his second skin.

For 25 years, the couple have been the custodians of this extraordinary building with their manager Pat McCrae at the helm.

Pat, a Kinsale man who has always been in the pub trade and will be with The Spaniard Inn 20 years next June, tells us about some of the visitors they’ve had over the years.

“You’d never know who you might bump into in the narrow passageways here,” he says.

“We’ve greeted many greats, from footballers Ian Rush and Neil Lennon, to rugby stars Peter O’Mahony and Simon Zebo, Vinny Jones, actor Richard Chamberlain, and Cassie Stokes has called for our famous toasted special.

“American country singer Luke Combs has popped in too. There’s too many to remember. You’d never know who might sit beside you at the bar!”

Does having celebrities make an impression on people? “Ah stop! Every year after Cassie Stokes called, the toasted sandwiches fly out the door!”

Pat explains that the building has been here since the 1600s. “It’s one of the oldest buildings in Ireland to hold a pub licence,” he says.

The sign for The Spaniard Inn – the name over the door remains that of the 17th centuyry Spanish commander, Don Juan D’Aquila

Originally, the building was called the Castle Inn as it was built on the ruins of an old castle. It was changed to The Spaniard and has remained that ever since.

The oldest part of the building is on the corner that everyone recognises, the sweeping bend round the road outside.

Is it mostly locals or tourists they get?

“It’s a mixture all year round. It’s always different and the same,” Pat says.

“We have new people call to us and we have the same visitors every year at the same time of year.

“Every day is different, but there’s a familiarity to all of it. Now you have daytrippers that come down on the bus from the city, and those that have their holiday home here.

“Over time, you get to know each and every one of them.

“Saturdays can mean stags and hens, while midweek can mean locals for a quiet drink and those calling to the restaurant.

“During the summer, the food was the busiest part of the business. With the outside seating area, and the sun splitting the stones, the place was full every day and the atmosphere was electric, with everyone mixing and chatting. “

David says they have 30 staff employed to keep The Spaniard Inn as perfect as it can be, and the work can be hard but it’s rewarding.

“It’s a lifestyle more than a job,” he says. “We wouldn’t do anything else. It’s wonderful that people are interested in the history.

“Nearly everyone asks about the building and we’re only delighted to tell them!”

The pub industry has had hard times, with many closing across Ireland. So, has the scene changed in recent times?

The Spaniard Inn in Kinsale. Pat McCrae says “the quaintness and homeliness of it” attract customers

“Definitely! People come out for a reason now,” Pat says, “either for food or a specific gathering like a family occasion.

“The trad session here on a Thursday night still brings the crowd, but it’s the food business is the busiest side of our business.”

Why do people love this pub?

“It’s the history, the open fires. The quaintness and homeliness of it. It’s pure traditional and you feel at home here.”

Pat says people love that it’s a reminder of times gone past, and you’re walking in the footsteps of all the thousands that have been here before.

The menu here has a nod to the nearby sea, and consists of everything from seafood chowder and pan-fried fishcakes, open shrimp sandwiches and crab claws to vegetarian cauliflower burgers and 10oz rib eye steaks.

The gang at The Spaniard Inn will be delighted to welcome you to this historic gem high on the hill in Scilly overlooking Kinsale town.

See: www.thespaniard.com /thespaniardkinsale@gmail.com. Tel: 021 4772436 for bookings.