{"id":141672,"date":"2025-11-15T19:03:18","date_gmt":"2025-11-15T19:03:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/141672\/"},"modified":"2025-11-15T19:03:18","modified_gmt":"2025-11-15T19:03:18","slug":"chinese-food-in-dublin-is-at-the-top-of-its-game-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/141672\/","title":{"rendered":"Chinese food in Dublin is at the top of its game \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">It\u2019s more than easy to find a Chinese restaurant in Dublin, from the noisy, happy cluster on Parnell Street to longer-established and much-loved outlets in the city centre or suburbia. And the capital is blessed with quality, whether it\u2019s hand-pulled noodles and dim sum, or modern fine-dining takes on classic dishes \u2013 there is something for all palates.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">On the more traditional side, Ka Shing has stood confidently for 12 years on Wicklow Street in Dublin 2, decorated in old-school fashion, with a fish tank near the entrance. A regular menu and a dim sum menu greet diners, with classics such as chicken and sweetcorn soup and mixed selections with sauces such as black bean, \u201cChinese premium XO\u201d, and king do.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Owner Bi Lian Liu explains that in Chinese, the phrase Ka Shing represents the idea of a good family. From 1982-2012, the restaurant was called Imperial. Liu bought it when it was closing down. She says Chinese people like to visit for its Hong Kong-style dim sum.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">The man behind these is head chef Liu Lai Keung, who is from Hong Kong. He is a Cantonese speaker who jokes via translators that he\u2019s in Ireland because he likes the weather. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cAnother reason for living here is that I have kids, and so I want to give them a good education,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Keung has been making dim sum for 48 years and has lived in Ireland for 18 of those. He says his cooking philosophy is about showing people what good food from Hong Kong is like. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall b-it-article-body__text--left\">Liu has solid perspectives on the sector, gained through both Ka Shing and its fine-dining cousin, Kaisen in Blanchardstown. He notes that the older generation prefers dim sum, while younger people find the layout of a fine-dining restaurant \u201cmore attractive\u201d.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Like Ka Shing, Good World Chinese Restaurant on nearby South Great George\u2019s Street is traditional in its approach, with decor featuring white paper table mats. It opened in 1991, and the head chef, Chi Chung Wai, joined the team a year later. He laughs when asked to describe his cooking philosophy, saying he\u2019ll \u201ctake a long pause\u201d, before concluding that \u201cit\u2019s to keep the customer happy, keep learning and trying to get better\u201d.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Ka Shing dishes. Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/U34VTLLKQBA2XNLYT7XVBPIAGI.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Ka Shing dishes. Photograph: Dan Dennison <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Ka Shing on Wicklow Street, Dublin. Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/DG6V2V6F35CHBG265K5SKLYMQ4.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"600\"\/>Ka Shing on Wicklow Street, Dublin. Photograph: Dan Dennison <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Irish people have different tastes, he says, and so he changes some ingredients to suit that. \u201cSometimes you can\u2019t get the right ingredient, so you get something similar, something that\u2019s as close as possible,\u201d he says. \u201cWe\u2019re very old-style. The owner [of Good World], Alfred Ma, travels to China and sees what\u2019s new and popular there, especially for the dim sum section. Western or Irish-style Chinese is very different, Wai says, with Good World serving Cantonese, Hong Kong-style food.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He sees modern Chinese restaurants as being \u201cmore stylish and fancy\u201d, but with \u201cthe main bits\u201d the same. \u201cIt\u2019s just different cooking styles. Modern Chinese food is maybe more colourful, and the restaurant interiors are different.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Good World on South Great George's Street, Dublin: chef Chi Chung Wai. Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/C42QIK26PRFPJPF5UNVW4FW4UI.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Good World on South Great George&#8217;s Street, Dublin: chef Chi Chung Wai. Photograph: Dan Dennison <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Good World: a classic Chinese dish of salt and pepper prawns. Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/MQTKVNL52JC2VJY322YSVTLZ6Q.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Good World: a classic Chinese dish of salt and pepper prawns. Photograph: Dan Dennison <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He wonders if cooking at fine-dining restaurants is easier than what he does. \u201cThey have more staff in the kitchen. We have to know everything and do everything ourselves. The chefs at fine-dining restaurants don\u2019t have to chop vegetables; someone does it for them.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cWe do simple food, and we\u2019re not pricey,\u201d says Jino Fan, manager at Good World. \u201cAt fine-dining restaurants, the chef can really concentrate on cooking, and then everything has to be plated nicely. The expectations at fine-dining restaurants are higher.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Good World sees customers not just from Dublin, but also from different cities and counties, says Fan. \u201cWe have a lot of regulars.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall b-it-article-body__text--left\">Modern Chinese restaurants in Dublin have been able to draw in loyal crowds too. One hot spot is Big Fan on Aungier Street in Dublin 2, which shot to success soon after its opening in 2020. <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall b-it-article-body__text--left\">\u201cBig Fan was founded with a strong commitment to exploring beyond traditional boundaries, ensuring we are not confined to a single region or even Chinese cuisine as a whole,\u201d says head chef Alex Zhang. \u201cWe know what ingredients and skills we have access to, and we play to our strengths and draw inspiration from a broad, diverse culinary landscape, embracing the idea that innovation arises from combining elements, techniques, ingredients, and flavours that excite us.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Zhang is from Dalian in China, where he studied Chinese cookery, and says he will always try to incorporate aspects of his hometown\u2019s culinary heritage into his creations, enriching the menu with authenticity and personal passion.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">His menu combines Chinese cooking and Irish ingredients. \u201cIt shows the local people that Chinese restaurants are not just about fried rice and noodles,\u201d says Zhang. \u201cI\u2019ve never seen any other Chinese restaurant do what we do. During Christmas or St Patrick\u2019s Day, we use what\u2019s in season. For example, turkey, which is not big in China, but we use it here, with Chinese cookery.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cOur menu is 50 per cent traditional and 50 per cent modern,\u201d he says. \u201cI\u2019ve worked with Irish people in Irish restaurants for 15 years. I find that Irish tastes are changing. They don\u2019t like big portions and they don\u2019t like a lot of carbs. They prefer something smaller and want to try more variety.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Zhang is clear about his cooking philosophy. \u201cThings like satay and black bean are very ordinary. We try to pick something special, something that hasn\u2019t been seen before. For instance, jellyfish, which is very popular in my city. Dalian is by the sea and we eat a lot of seafood,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cI said I\u2019d make some dishes and get Rob [Robert Hayes, the owner of Big Fan] to try them. Our tables at Big Fan are small, so I don\u2019t want the plates to be big. We don\u2019t have starters, main course and dessert. Everything comes together. We do smaller portions so our customers can try more variety. We\u2019ve designed it for European people.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Big Fan: chef Alex Zhang cooks a range of dishes including rare featherblade steak, fermented bean and ufra pepper. Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/IVF4ZTCCQZHGRKEDRP47U6BUZI.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>Big Fan: chef Alex Zhang cooks a range of dishes including rare featherblade steak, fermented bean and ufra pepper. Photograph: Dan Dennison <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"Chef Alex Zhang at Big Fan on Aungier Street in Dublin: 'Each region of China represents different flavours.' Photograph: Dan Dennison\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/SUC2OC2G4VGS5NFETV66WFIFWU.jpg\"   width=\"800\" height=\"600\"\/>Chef Alex Zhang at Big Fan on Aungier Street in Dublin: &#8216;Each region of China represents different flavours.&#8217; Photograph: Dan Dennison <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Big Fan has a traditional Chinese steamer, a wok-frying section, a deep-frying section, a pan-frying section and a pastry section.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cNormally, traditional Chinese restaurants have all these sections too, but most of the food there comes from the wok-frying section,\u201d says Zhang.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He has experience with French cooking, and so likes to plate the dishes based on flavours. \u201cYou\u2019ll get a combination of different textures. For Asian cuisine, spice is key. But if all you use is spice, people are going to say, \u2018Oh, that\u2019s very spicy\u2019. So you\u2019re going to need umami and soy-based dishes to break things up.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Not all customers can take spice, Zhang says. \u201cSo we design things in a way that some dishes are spicy and some are sweet. We have spicy chicken and sweet chicken.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Big Fan has a sister restaurant called Sister7 in Smithfield, the menu for which was also designed by Zhang. \u201cThe difference between Big Fan and Sister7 is that [the latter] is a bar,\u201d he says. \u201cSo most people there drink. Some people might come and not order any food; they might just order beer. But when you have a beer, you might say, \u2018Oh, I want some snacks\u2019. With beer, people normally eat things like pretzels. In Chinese cuisine we have crackers.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Zhang is still a fan of traditional Chinese restaurants. \u201cChinese cuisine is huge,\u201d he says. \u201cThe regions are different. I go to Ka Shing or Good World if I want to eat dim sum or traditional Hong Kong or Cantonese-style food. They have been around for a long time. The chefs know the cuisine really well. If you make a dish 250 times a day, you will be an expert.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">As a chef, Zhang finds that some flavours are too mild and flat for him. \u201cI like things to have a kick,\u201d he says. \u201cEach region of China represents different flavours. If you want more spice, you\u2019d go somewhere like M &amp; L [on Cathedral Street in Dublin 1] to eat.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph b-it-article-body__interstitial-link\">[\u00a0<a aria-label=\"Open related story\" class=\"c-link\" href=\"https:\/\/www.irishtimes.com\/food\/restaurants\/review\/2025\/06\/26\/king-skewer-restaurant-review-get-your-hands-gloriously-dirty-as-you-gnaw-on-chicken-feet-and-bite-down-on-duck-tongue\/\" rel=\"noreferrer nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">King Skewer restaurant review: A Chinese spot in Dublin where you could spend \u20ac10 and leave happyOpens in new window<\/a>\u00a0]<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He reckons not all Irish diners might enjoy all of the Chinese food on offer in the many newer outlets available in the city centre.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cThey might not be suitable for everyone because either the dishes are too big or the flavours are too strong. In China, most Chinese customers can take it,\u201d he says. \u201cBut other people might find it too much, or find the ingredients strange. We do chicken feet, which everyone knows are very popular, but I can\u2019t serve chicken feet.\u201d It doesn\u2019t matter how well he can make chicken feet, Zhang says, his customers wouldn\u2019t like to try it. \u201cIn one week I\u2019d probably sell two portions. It won\u2019t be a success.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He enjoys fine dining because he comes from such a background and enjoys \u201cworking with tweezers and little things like that\u201d, but he acknowledges that prices can be high.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cIt depends on the customer. We have loads of people celebrating at Big Fan. Birthdays, anniversaries, even stag parties. It\u2019s more fun and relaxed. You\u2018re not thinking about wearing something formal or speaking softly. I can just enjoy with my friends. That\u2019s most important. I don\u2019t need to spend big money or order expensive wine.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">China Sichuan in Sandyford is one of the best-known Chinese fine-dining restaurants in Ireland. The head chef there, Jack Lew Kong Loy, has previously worked in Pakistan, Abu Dhabi and Dubai. \u201cHe\u2019s going to introduce a lot more refinement to the menu,\u201d says owner Kevin Hui.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cOur very first restaurant was called Lotus House in D\u00fan Laoghaire. That was in the 1970s. It was very busy in its heyday. We were serving spring rolls and fried rice with curry sauce. You remember those days?\u201d Hui asks David Soo, his kitchen manager at China Sichuan. \u201cThey were jumbo spring rolls that you couldn\u2019t get into your mouth,\u201d he recalls fondly. \u201cAnd we had sweet and sour chicken, which was bright red. That was part and parcel of the early \u201970s.\u201d<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"China Sichuan: chef Jack Lew Kong Loy and some of his dishes. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/4BCC4LE5VVAWNMUPLNFHXFYRLY.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>China Sichuan: chef Jack Lew Kong Loy and some of his dishes. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw <img decoding=\"async\" data-chromatic=\"ignore\" alt=\"China Sichuan: Sichuan octopus. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw\" class=\"c-image\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/2VSDSKRMCRED7HZJ5DFZJ7KV4M.JPG\"   width=\"800\" height=\"533\"\/>China Sichuan: Sichuan octopus. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw <\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">China Sichuan opened in 2006. \u201cWe wanted it to be a modern-style restaurant, with modern-style service, serving Sichuan food, using the best of Irish produce,\u201d Hui says. \u201cWe have a menu that\u2019s 20 per cent authentic; the rest is modern. I don\u2019t think any other Chinese restaurant takes the risks that we do.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Head chef Lew Kong Loy says a lot of what he cooks at China Sichuan is South Cantonese cuisine. \u201cWe do a fusion of western-style, Japanese-style and Cantonese-style cooking,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cUnlike the modern ones, traditional Chinese restaurants have big portions. We [at China Sichuan] have to modify them into small portions. The presentation, along with garnishes, needs to look great.\u201d He doesn\u2019t want to lose the Cantonese style of doing things. \u201cWe want to keep that; especially the flavours,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Hui describes this as \u201ctaking a lot of Sichuan dishes and marrying them with a lighter touch.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">\u201cTo me, the cooking philosophy at China Sichuan is providing good food with the best of ingredients, and also interpreting local produce and bringing it along on a journey.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">Hui reckons the restaurant has \u201cvery refined\u201d spice levels.<\/p>\n<p class=\"c-paragraph paywall \">He sees Chinese food having been stereotyped as curry sauce and chicken balls in the past. \u201cBut it has moved on from that in the last 25 years and that\u2019s good to see.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"It\u2019s more than easy to find a Chinese restaurant in Dublin, from the noisy, happy cluster on Parnell&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":141673,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[72,81440,61,60],"class_list":["post-141672","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-business","tag-business","tag-chinese-food","tag-ie","tag-ireland"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/141672","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=141672"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/141672\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/141673"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=141672"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=141672"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=141672"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}