{"id":186214,"date":"2025-12-11T06:48:09","date_gmt":"2025-12-11T06:48:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/186214\/"},"modified":"2025-12-11T06:48:09","modified_gmt":"2025-12-11T06:48:09","slug":"a-wonderful-neighbourhood-restaurant-with-a-list-of-1700-wines-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/186214\/","title":{"rendered":"A wonderful neighbourhood restaurant with a list of 1,700 wines \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"

64 Wine <\/p>\n

\ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d7 <\/p>\n

Address: 64 Glasthule Road, Glasthule, D\u00fan Laoghaire, Co. Dublin, A96 TH22<\/p>\n

Telephone: 01 280 5664<\/p>\n

Cuisine: Modern International<\/p>\n

Website: https:\/\/64wine.ie\/Opens in new window<\/a><\/p>\n

Cost: \u20ac\u20ac<\/p>\n

There are wine<\/a> bottles everywhere. Hand-written chalkboard signs carve the shelves into regions: Italy, Austria, Germany, Jura\/Savoie, Loire, Burgundy, Bordeaux. The space reads more as a wine shop \u2013 as you\u2019d expect in 64 Wine in Glasthule<\/a>, one of the country\u2019s most highly awarded wine shops \u2013 than as a restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling shelving is lit from within, giving the space a warm, amber glow.<\/p>\n

We have a bird\u2019s-eye view from our high stools by the door as the locals pop in to pick up a bottle or two, but we are somewhat separated from the rest of the room. A brick pillar, adorned with a framed Bloomsday picture, is the big divide. At the back, seating is close, sociable and a touch improvised: cafe-height tables in the aisles, and stools at the wooden counter and lower marble-topped counter overlooking the galley kitchen.<\/p>\n

Head chef Ionut (Johnny) Apostol from Bucharest<\/a> \u2013 who previously worked in Brookwood, and Margadh in Howth \u2013 is busy getting plates out. A large vintage-style clock hangs over the pass, and the counter is dotted with scales and containers, giving the sense of a working kitchen embedded inside a wine shop.<\/p>\n

The concise menu is built for wine: a run of small plates \u2013 olives, smoked almonds, sourdough with olive oil \u2013 before moving into the structured snacks, most of which we order, although the fermented porcini dumplings and duck leg spring rolls have already run out. There\u2019s also a charcuterie section offering a cheese and cured meat board or a smaller all-cheese option. <\/p>\n

The by-the-glass wine list, which focuses heavily on organic and biodynamic wines<\/a>, is compiled with thought and priced with a sense of proportion that is rare in Dublin. Glasses run from \u20ac6.50 into the teens, covering everything from bright Italian whites to German Riesling and a couple of well-chosen reds. An extensive bottle list is also available.<\/p>\n

We start with a Saladini Pilastri Falerio (\u20ac6.50) and a Georg Breuer \u2018Sauvage\u2019 Riesling (\u20ac12.50) \u2013 crisp, refreshing wines to accompany padr\u00f3n peppers (\u20ac8). The peppers come blistered and wrinkled from a hot pan, the skins catching just enough char to give them that smoky, slightly bitter edge. They\u2019re sprinkled with coarse salt and served with a wedge of lemon.<\/p>\n

The free-range chicken liver parfait (\u20ac12) is particularly good, piped on to the plate in soft, whipped folds \u2013 creamy and light enough to hold its shape, but rich the moment it hits the tongue. There\u2019s a clear boozy thread running through it, something sweet and fortified \u2013 sherry, Madeira or similar \u2013 giving the parfait a rounded warmth and a bit of lift. A scatter of crisp chicken skin brings texture. It\u2019s served with thin toasted slices of baguette and a few cornichons. <\/p>\n

The wild Atlantic prawns (\u20ac14) come in a nduja sauce that is sharp and spicy \u2013 the sort that clings to the prawns \u2013 and the sweetness of the flesh holds its own against it.<\/p>\n

\"ExteriorExterior of 64 Wine in Glasthule, Co Dublin \"6464 Wine interior \"6464 Wine seating \"PorchettaPorchetta with wholegrain mustard mash potato, veal jus \"AtlanticAtlantic nduja prawns, breadcrumbled nduja and sourdough bread \"TheThe by-the-glass wine list focuses heavily on organic and biodynamic wines <\/p>\n

We switch to a glass of Trediberri Barbera (\u20ac11.50) and Stempel Spatburgunder (\u20ac13) to accompany the sliced, smoked duck breast (\u20ac14) which is drizzled with hoisin sauce. The lamb rump (\u20ac20), fanned out across the plate in thick slices, is an even pink (cooked using sous vide, I imagine) and lightly seared on the outside, accompanied by roasted baby potatoes. It sits on top of caponata in a puddle of balsamic jus, which tilts the balance towards the acidic side. <\/p>\n

The rice pudding (\u20ac7) is quietly impressive, lightly flavoured with cinnamon and flecked with orange zest. The flavour notes are repeated in the neat quenelle of whipped cream and mascarpone on top, with candied orange zest, toasted flaked almonds and sharp pops of acidity from redcurrants, dropped like Christmas lights across the surface. <\/p>\n

[\u00a0Neighbourhood wine shops and bars are popping up everywhere. Who\u2019s behind them?Opens in new window<\/a>\u00a0]<\/p>\n

64 Wine \u2013 a shop, wine bar and restaurant, where diners sit within arm\u2019s reach of stock, cooking, and service \u2013 is one of the most glorious neighbourhood restaurants you are likely to find, except for the table by the door, which appears to fall off the staff\u2019s map entirely. It is well into the Christmas season, so no doubt it is booked solid with locals. But in the new year, when the evenings close in and something cosy is required, it would be the place to head to with a few fellow oenophiles. Gerard Maguire and Anthony Robineau\u2019s list runs to more than 1,700 wines, so there\u2019s plenty to read before you start tasting \u2013 and enough depth to justify repeat visits.<\/p>\n

Dinner for two with four glasses of wine and 12.5 per cent service charge was \u20ac133.31. <\/p>\n

The verdict: Exceptional wine and good cooking.<\/p>\n

Food provenance: McLoughlin\u2019s butchers, La Rousse, George\u2019s Fish and Tartine Bakery.<\/p>\n

Vegetarian options: Padr\u00f3n peppers, fermented porcini dumplings, cheese and olives.<\/p>\n

Wheelchair access: Fully accessible, with an accessible toilet.<\/p>\n

Music: Lounge and modern jazz.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"64 Wine \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d7 Address: 64 Glasthule Road, Glasthule, D\u00fan Laoghaire, Co. Dublin, A96 TH22…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":186215,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[72,16089,100804,61,60,709,5863,17328],"class_list":["post-186214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-business","tag-business","tag-dun-laoghaire","tag-glasthule","tag-ie","tag-ireland","tag-magazine","tag-restaurant-reviews","tag-wine"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/186214","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=186214"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/186214\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/186215"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=186214"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=186214"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=186214"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}