{"id":354016,"date":"2026-03-19T08:29:10","date_gmt":"2026-03-19T08:29:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/354016\/"},"modified":"2026-03-19T08:29:10","modified_gmt":"2026-03-19T08:29:10","slug":"spice-skill-and-superb-value-in-stillorgan-the-irish-times","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/354016\/","title":{"rendered":"Spice, skill and superb value in Stillorgan \u2013 The Irish Times"},"content":{"rendered":"

Kings Biryani House <\/p>\n

\ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d8 \ue9d7 <\/p>\n

Address: First floor, 10 Lower Kilmacud Road, Stillorgan, Co Dublin, A94 H5X9<\/p>\n

Telephone: N\/A<\/p>\n

Cuisine: Indian<\/p>\n

Website: https:\/\/kingsbiryanihouse.ie\/Opens in new window<\/a><\/p>\n

Cost: \u20ac\u20ac<\/p>\n

Almost 20 years ago, in a Dublin<\/a> kitchen<\/a> heavy with the smell of hot oil and toasted spice, I learned that flavour<\/a> has a soundtrack.<\/p>\n

Mustard seeds hit the pan and began to snap. Cumin followed, darkening almost instantly. Curry leaves crackled, releasing a sharp, green perfume. \u201cDo you know about tadka?\u201d my friend Suman asked. \u201cIt brings out flavour in a different way from roasting.\u201d<\/p>\n

Tadka \u2013 tempering \u2013 is the controlled blooming of whole spices in very hot fat to unlock their essential oils. The oil shimmers, seeds pop, lentils toast, chillies blister. It lasts seconds. Done properly, it doesn\u2019t just season a dish \u2013 it brings it alive. The fat carries the volatile aromas into whatever follows, whether that\u2019s vegetables, lentils or fish. Without it, a daal can taste flat. With it, the same pot acquires depth, warmth and edge.<\/p>\n

At King\u2019s Biryani House, the daal tadka (\u20ac13.99) arrives in a small metal karahi set over a live flame. The surface is freckled with cumin and mustard seeds, the oil pooled lightly at the edges. Green chillies and shards of ginger sit on top, coriander scattered for freshness. It is thick but not stodgy, the lentils holding some texture.<\/p>\n

The tempering registers immediately \u2013 the earthy warmth of cumin, the faint bite of mustard, the subtle bitterness that stops the richness from slumping. It is not elaborate cooking. It is foundational. And when it is right, as it is here, it explains everything I learned in that kitchen nearly two decades ago: that sometimes the smallest pan makes the biggest noise.<\/p>\n

King\u2019s Biryani House is owned by chef Gul Azam and sits directly above C Aprile Takeaway, opposite Stillorgan Shopping Centre. It has been recommended to me more than once by locals and Indian friends, and from my corner table by the window I can see why. It is a hybrid space \u2013 part suburban Indian\/Pakistani restaurant, part small function room \u2013 yet the mix in the diningroom feels unforced. A group of men in high-vis vests are tucking into a taste of their homeland with quiet focus; across the room, a family shares platters; a couple leans over a single karahi between them, with the easy confidence of somewhere that has long been part of the neighbourhood.<\/p>\n

The menu is built around tandoori grills, familiar curries and a strong biryani core. Starters run from chaat and bhajji to seekh kebab and Lahori fish, while the curry list covers tikka masala, korma, butter chicken and jalfrezi alongside vegetarian dishes. Biryani is the main event, with chicken, lamb and prawn versions plus mixed and regional variations. Mains sit largely in the mid-teens to mid-20s.<\/p>\n

Lahori fish (\u20ac9.99) comes in rough-edged pieces, deep fried in a spiced gram-flour batter that stays crisp around moist flakes of fish. It\u2019s served with chips, garlic mayonnaise and a slick of hot sauce \u2013 the heat direct, the garlic smoothing it out.<\/p>\n

The mixed vegetable platter (\u20ac9.49) is a sampler: samosa, turmeric potato cake, four onion bhajis, two spring rolls and an aloo tikki with mint chutney and sweet chilli. The bhajis are the strongest of these \u2013 knotted, spiced and deliciously browned at the edges.<\/p>\n

\"King'sKing’s chicken biryani with mint sauce at King’s Biryani House in Stillorgan. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw \"ChickenChicken tandoori wings at King’s Biryani House in Stillorgan. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw <\/p>\n

The lababdar lamb biryani (\u20ac19.99) arrives on a large oblong black plate, generous to the point of excess. Fluffy, saffron-flecked rice blankets slow-cooked lamb on the bone, the grains darkening where they\u2019ve absorbed the meat juices beneath. We order medium, and it carries real heat \u2013 whole chillies visible, black cardamom pods and cumin threading through a creamy sauce. Fried onions and fresh coriander sit on top. The spice builds steadily, lingering. A bowl of raita comes alongside, and brings a cool, lactic balance.<\/p>\n

[\u00a0Indian food that\u2019s better than the takeaway? Here\u2019s how to do it at homeOpens in new window<\/a>\u00a0]<\/p>\n

We finish with kheer (\u20ac6.99). A classic dessert in Indian cooking, it is rice simmered slowly in milk until it thickens to a soft, spoonable custard. This version arrives chilled in a glass bowl, pale and gently set, topped with raisins and slivered almonds. Lightly sweet, faintly scented with cardamom, it soothes after spice.<\/p>\n

Leaving, what strikes me is how comfortable it all feels. Gul Azam\u2019s kitchen relies on intuition \u2013 on understanding when to toast, when to bloom, when to let a spice dominate and when to hold it back. The daal tadka is the clearest expression of that \u2013 a small, crackling gesture that carries through the rest of the meal, right into the biryani.<\/p>\n

Dinner for two was \u20ac60.45.<\/p>\n

The verdict: Excellent biryani and good value.<\/p>\n

Food provenance: Not provided.<\/p>\n

Vegetarian options: Paneer jalfrezi, saagh aloo, mixed vegetable masala and daal tadka.<\/p>\n

Wheelchair access: No accessible room or toilet.<\/p>\n

Music: Barry White, George Benson and 80s tunes.<\/p>\n

\"ExecutiveExecutive chef and owner Gul Azam at King’s Biryani House in Stillorgan. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw \"King'sKing’s Biryani House in Stillorgan. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw \"King'sKing’s Biryani House in Stillorgan. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Kings Biryani House \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d9 \ue9d8 \ue9d7 Address: First floor, 10 Lower Kilmacud Road, Stillorgan, Co Dublin,…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":354017,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[61,60,709,43,5861,5863,83767],"class_list":["post-354016","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-ireland","tag-ie","tag-ireland","tag-magazine","tag-news","tag-restaurant","tag-restaurant-reviews","tag-stillorgan"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/354016","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=354016"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/354016\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/354017"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=354016"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=354016"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/ie\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=354016"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}