MILAN — If there was plenty of action on the runways of Milan Fashion Week, the same can be said for the city’s showrooms.
Since finding time to squeeze in all appointments and check collections off lists was the biggest challenge for many in town, here’s a roundup of some off-the-radar pieces that could come in handy for retailers store shelves for fall.
The Shearling Jacket: Armarium
Armarium
Courtesy of Armarium
Armarium could be a one-stop destination for wardrobe building alone. Founder Giorgia Gabriele’s elevated take on fashion archetypes, top-notch fabrications and precise execution make such an exercise child’s play.
For fall 2026, in addition to her bestselling tailoring and cashmere and wool knits, there were terrific leather separates — including sleek strapless tops and pants cut from bull leather for more structure — and a new incursion into leisurewear. This was filtered through Gabriele’s lens that saw fleece sweaters and pants treated with sartorial sensibility via crater collars and pleated constructions, seemingly blending with the rest of the collection.
Outerwear stood out once again. The brand’s classic coats were joined by handsome bomber jackets in grained leather or suede, cocooning puffers and enveloping shearling jackets and stoles that were lined with contrasting napa for extra luxe. Men might want to borrow these pieces, too — at least until Gabriele makes her foray into the category later this year, as she revealed to WWD in a preview.
The Cape: Agnona
Agnona
Courtesy of Agnona
For tweaked classics, check Agnona. The expansive collection presented in the brand’s headquarters highlighted its understated elegance, the gentle proportions of its designs and study of fabrications. Sartorial outerwear crafted from archival fabrics mingled with pieces that winked to utility and workwear, with a few styles looking to balance these two souls in a single design, such as double wool hooded capes and coats. Other iterations of these shapes came in mannish fabrics, belted constructions and metal buttons punctuating their ample fit.
The Statement Coat: Forte_Forte
Forte_Forte
Courtesy of Forte Forte
Need a punchier option? Forte_Forte had charming animalier jacquard coats — both in short and long proportions — that will redefine the pattern as a new neutral come next fall. Crafted from a blend of alpaca and wool, the gauzy surface and contrasting velvet details of these styles stood out in the brand’s pretty fall 2026 collection. Creative director Giada Forte drew inspiration from British culture at-large, from nods to aristocracy to Swinging London influences, for her tartan and checkered separates; formal tailoring sweetened by big bows; new corduroy suits embroidered with delicate floral motifs, and charming silk frocks and velvet slipdresses.
The White Shirt: Alessandro Enriquez With Rossella Jardini
Alessandro Enriquez
Courtesy of Alessandro Enriquez
Alessandro Enriquez and Moschino’s former creative director Rossella Jardini collaborated again for fall 2026. As in the previous collection that launched their tie-up, this lineup was the mood-boosting result of each designer’s flamboyant personality. Themed around the concept of play, it was filled with prints of dices, playing cards and board games, which added to takes on tartan and argyle patterns and the duo’s go-to motifs, such as hearts and polka dots.
In such a more-is-more approach, classic crisp white shirts and those with big bows popped up as the essential pieces to have in the closet.
The Knitted Sweater: Des Phemmes
Des Phemmes
Courtesy of Des Phemmes
If you associate Des Phemmes only to glitzy creations, rich in sequins, crystal embroideries and feathery details, think twice. Salvo Rizza’s brand is rooted in contrasts, and even if those flashy numbers made for a significant part of his latest effort, the brand’s fall 2026 collection showed they are not his only trick.
Citing a dual, apparently opposite inspiration for the season, putting into dialogue the eccentricity of Italian heiress and socialite Luisa Casati with Helmut Lang’s minimalism, the designer juxtaposed marabou skirts and slipdresses made of crystal-encrusted chains with essential white coats with a croc-embossed effect and knitted sweaters that proved his designs can exist in daylight, too.
The Pencil Skirt: Francesco Murano
Francesco Murano
Courtesy of Francesco Murano/Giampaolo Sgura
The pencil skirt got a fresh spin in Francesco Murano‘s androgynous “Aenigma” collection, inspired by Tamara de Lempicka’s Art Deco aesthetic. Featured in a gallery of portraits by the Italian photographer Giampaolo Sgura, the collection’s clean lines and sculpted volumes took center stage. Leather and crisp taffeta created structural pieces, while classic jersey added draping to the androgynous and elongated silhouettes that were rendered in Lempicka’s cool color hues, from warm grey and white to mint green and pale pink.
The Cropped Pants: Slowear
The Slowear fall 2026 collection.
Courtesy of Slowear
As always, Slowear put the accent on tailoring and delivering the same precision and heritage fabrics as it does for the men’s collection. This season the brand worked tweeds, checks and compact wools into suits with a twist. One Prince of Wales check suit came with a bomber jacket and matching trousers that were cropped at the ankle. Embroidered black flowers and vines on the jacket added a dash of Goth, while the cropped trousers showed off a pair of suede kitten-heel boots. Another suit came with a dark, hip-grazing A-line coat and matching wool culottes. Both were fun takes on the trouser, and added a fresh, sporty air to all the tailoring.
The Everyday Dress: Mantú
Mantú
Courtesy of Mantú
At Mantú, problem-solving is a craft. The in-house brand of Italian manufacturing company Castor, which works with a plethora of luxury fashion houses, delivered another solid collection of uncomplicated, day-to-night looks. In addition to displaying its signature tailoring and new iterations of outerwear staples cut from mannish fabrics or hand-embroidered with floral motifs, the brand spotlighted its technical prowess in a series of unfussy dresses targeting women on the move. Cue the ruched effect running down the front of a midi dress that turned its simple design.
The Canadian Tuxedo: Seafarer
Seafarer
Courtesy of Seafarer
Denim-on-denim never goes out of style and creative director Manuela Mariotti knows the category like the back of her hand. Expanding the offering, Seafarer introduced new five-pocket jeans for fall and presented them in edgy, dark indigo Canadian tuxedos with loose, strong-shouldered Western-inspired overshirts. This was a thorough, wardrobe-building collection, heavily hinged on sartorial separates straddling masculine and feminine, with a number of elongated blazers in heritage tweeds and herringbone paired with the signature four-pocketed, flared jeans or vaguely ’50s-nodding cropped jackets and boleros layered under statement topcoats.
The Leather Pants: Federica Tosi
Federica Tosi
Courtesy of Federica Tosi
Federica Tosi’s collection has leather as a key material, as seen in the standout burgundy pants with a smooth, glossy finish and a relaxed cut, alongside metallic leather with a coconut print that added a bold touch to jackets, mini and long skirts, wool and cashmere pieces. The season’s color palette appealed with its warm hues, from ruby and dark brown to anthracite and black.
The Velvet Robe: Yali
Yali
Courtesy of Yali
Pia Zanardi is continuing to quietly expand the Yali assortment. The brand, which is best known for its cropped vests and genderless velvet blazer jackets reinterpreted in many iterations over the years, has stretched its codes to cool leather and suede jackets, handsome tailored coats, mohair knits and up to crushed velvet gowns conceived for nighttime occasions. Daring even more, Zanardi experimented with cascades of ruffles in satin dresses, but eventually it’s always the elongated silhouette of her velvet robes that is likely to make the biggest impression — also after dusk.
The Jersey Separates: Maccapani
Maccapani
Courtesy of Maccapani
Maccapani focused on jersey separates, including easy, fluid gowns, tailored jackets, trousers and slinky, sheer knit sweaters, some embellished with sweet rosettes, all at contemporary prices. Margherita Maccapani Missoni has been busy this season, not only creating a fall collection but also showcasing it at the brand’s first permanent space in Milan, on Via Leopardi 26, not far from Parco Sempione. Maccapani described it as “a boutique, a living room and a creative headquarters,” where she’ll also be selling special handcrafted items created especially for the store, including Murano glass tumblers by Laguna B; bags with crystal clasps from the Florentine label Iacobella; enameled pendants by the historic Merù Gioielli, and lingerie knitwear developed exclusively by Maglificio Ragno. She showed off the collection, and the new store, with a dance party. Models danced around the “living room” of the store showing off pieces from the collection and its super-fluid, stretchy and day-to-night qualities.