MILAN — Italian brand Ilio Smeraldo is stepping into the men’s arena.
The brand, founded by Barbara Borghini with the co-creative direction of Maria de la Orden and known for its different takes on the classic Venetian unisex furlane slippers, is expanding its relaxed aesthetic to men starting with the spring 2027 collection.
To be unveiled this week at the Pitti Uomo trade show, the range draws inspiration from the rebellious iconography of the ‘70s in easy-to-understand styles spanning from the Saint Germain refined loafers and their tasseled version Rivoli, to the Newport soft slip-ons and the Mayfer reinterpreted ballet flat.
The Saint Germain loafers in burgundy raffia and suede by Ilio Smeraldo.
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
All styles are crafted in an array of premium materials, including supple leather, velvety suede, shiny satin and woven raffia. The wide color palette includes neutrals such as black, ivory, navy and taupe along with earthy tones of cocoa, caramel, oregano, burgundy and vibrant marigold that amplify the simple lines of the collection.
In an interview with WWD, Borghini said introducing a proposition for men was a natural evolution for the brand. “Over time, we noticed that more and more male clients were already purchasing the larger sizes from our women’s collections. That made us realize there was a genuine demand for Ilio Smeraldo for a male audience as well,” she said, adding that the time was right “because the demand kept growing organically.”
The Rivoli loafers in navy suede by Ilio Smeraldo.
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
“The creative process is essentially the same as the one we have for women, because many of our styles already have a natural unisex identity. We approach design in a very instinctive and authentic way, focusing on comfort, functionality and timeless aesthetics rather than creating strict distinctions between men’s and women’s products,” Borghini continued. She confirmed the new category will follow the same positioning and distribution strategy of the women’s counterpart, too, which is available at retailers such as Chapters in Milan and Samaritaine and Le Bon Marché in Paris.
Born as a direct-to-consumer project, Ilio Smeraldo has carved a niche for offering unfussy yet well-made styles, fit for everyday occasions with their understated appeal and competitive price point, which averages between 150 euros and 250 euros.
The Mayfer leather style by Ilio Smeraldo.
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
“Our customer is someone who values comfort, practicality and lightness — someone cosmopolitan, who travels frequently and appreciates versatile products,” Borghini said. “More than thinking about age or categories, we think about a lifestyle and a mindset. Our shoes are incredibly flexible and lightweight, to the point that some styles can literally be folded and easily packed into a suitcase. They are designed for people who are always moving, who appreciate ease and functionality without compromising on style.”
The Newport satin design by Ilio Smeraldo.
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
The brand was revamped starting in April 2025 with an enhanced focus on spotlighting the craftsmanship behind its assortment. To be sure, all shoes are crafted in Tuscany by local artisans and mainly deploy locally sourced materials.
“The artisanal know-how is the real value behind the brand,” Borghini said. “We are deeply committed to supporting and protecting Italian craftsmanship and the incredible expertise that has been passed down from generation to generation, but that is unfortunately disappearing more and more today. Building and strengthening this artisanal supply chain is one of the most important missions for us.”
The Saint Germain loafers in black leather by Ilio Smeraldo.
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
To spotlight this expertise, Ilio Smeraldo has leveraged the buzz around the furlane slippers by offering new, hybrid takes. The brand’s women’s collections so far have seen feminine sandals and ballerinas embellished with bows; bandana-like and fringed suede versions with a Western appeal; more urban takes with croc-embossed effects or classic penny loafer shapes — all featuring furlane’s distinctive soles made of recycled tires, which were originally intended to allow gondoliers to have a firm grip while rowing without scratching the surface of gondolas.
Ilio Smeraldo shares the same production and distribution of Borghini’s other footwear brand, Giaborghini, but it remains a separate entity when it comes to the creative and strategic sides.
Barbara Borghini
Courtesy of Ilio Smeraldo
Yet both brands are known for their collaboration activity, with Ilio Smeraldo’s newest one developed with the Caraluna concept store, as reported.
“We don’t follow a rigid or predefined collaboration strategy. Our partnerships are always very organic and based on instinct, chemistry and shared values,” Borghini said. She’s open to considering similar projects for the men’s category in the future, but “right now, we want the focus to remain entirely on the product, without distracting the customer from what we believe is the true strength of the collection,” she concluded.