Liza Essers is no stranger to working against the status quo. “Coming from the Southern tip of Africa, you really have to paddle your own canoe,” the gallerist told Frieze in 2018. The child of Libyan and Lithuanian immigrants, Essers was born in Pietermaritzburg, South Africa, in 1974. After a stint in finance, she left the corporate world to produce films—Totsi, one of her many projects, became the first African film to win an Academy Award, in 2006. Two years later, Esser, ready for another change, bought the Goodman Gallery from its founder, Linda Givon. She was 34.

Esser’s entry into art was unorthodox. “I was motivated to pursue this path out of total naïveté,” she said. “What I did know was that I also absolutely love art and believe in it as a driver for social change.” When Goodman Gallery opened in 1966, it defied apartheid by becoming one of the few spaces to champion the work of Black artists. Since taking over the gallery, Essers has furthered its efforts toward social justice and transcultural visibility, opening outposts in London and New York and starting a mentorship program to help Black women break into the art world.

Essers currently lives in Cape Town. Here, the art dealer shares her favorite spots in the city she calls home.

The central atrium at the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, in Cape Town. Zeitz MOCAA

One of the most important spaces for contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora. I remain devastated by the loss of its late chief curator, Koyo Kouoh, whose extraordinary curatorial vision transformed the institution and its legacy. At the same time, I feel heartened to see Elvira Dyangani Ose carry that mantle forward. She’s a former collaborator of mine and a curator whose work I have admired deeply for many years. (zeitzmocaa.museum)

The Iziko South African National Gallery

Opened in 1930 and home to a public park that boasts South Africa’s oldest garden, this public museum tells the story of Cape Town’s longstanding love affair with art. It might not be the Metropolitan Museum of Art, but its programming continually surprises me. Goodman Gallery artists El Anatsui, William Kentridge, David Koloane, and Sue Williamson have all been honored there with career surveys. (iziko.org.za)

A4 Arts Foundation

When the collector Wendy Fisher—a close ally of the Goodman Gallery—opened this cultural space in 2017, she created a much-needed hub for artists. Alongside the exhibition space, which frequently draws from Wendy’s vast collection, A4 also features a library, hosts short-term residents, and serves the finest locally-grown mesquite coffee. (a4arts.org)

Clarke’s Bookshop

Established in 1956, when book censorship was still a reality, this cult bookstore on Long Street stocks an impressive selection of new and rare books on South African art, photography, and architecture. New African fiction can be found downstairs, while collectable Africana is kept upstairs under lock and key. Ask the proprietor, André Sales, for a tour. (clarkesbooks.co.za)

Between Us

Twin sisters and self-taught chefs Jamie and Jesse Friedberg run this charming bistro on the popular Bree Street, in the center of the city. With its trustworthy menu and laid-back vibe, it’s become one of the art crowd’s favorite haunts. The art on display is always changing, continuing a tradition from their earlier venture, Skinny Legs. (betweenus.capetown)

An interior view of Fyn. FYN

Fyn epitomizes the food revolution that has put Cape Town’s kitchens on the global map. It’s located on the top floor of a 19th-century silk factory, in a gentrified part of town, near the Parliament. Chef Peter Tempelhoff’s menu reflects the city’s rich maritime history by combining local coastal ingredients with Japanese craft. The wine pairings add to the luxury. (fynrestaurant.com)

IL LEONE MASTRANTONIO

Mastrantonio was a big part of my life in Johannesburg, so there is something comforting about having it in Cape Town. Its real mastery is its consistency: for three decades, across two cities, the restaurant has remained exceptional, generous, and completely itself. (mastrantonio.com)

CafE Sofi by tashas

Tashas began in Johannesburg around the time I was coming into my own there. There is something especially lovely about seeing its story continue in Cape Town, just as mine has. Cafe Sofi is a beautiful and moving homage to the owners’ late mother. It’s intimate, elegant, and full of warmth. (cafesofi.com)

Outside Pauline’s Coffee Shop. Pauline’s Coffee Shop

Tucked inside Goodman Gallery Cape Town, which is housed in a former monastery, Pauline’s feels like part of the fabric of my day. Convenience aside, it’s charming and serves excellent coffee. It offers a quiet start to the day and a little pause before stepping into the gallery. (paulinescoffee.com)

Hike up Lion’s Head

One of the best vantage points from which to understand Cape Town’s geography, with views across the city, toward Table Mountain, and out over the Atlantic. (sanparks.org)

The pool at the Delaire Graff Estate. Delaire Graff Estate

Time-squeezed visitors never know whether to visit Stellenbosch or Franschhoek. I suggest a bit of both: head to London gem dealer and passionate collector Laurence Graff’s extraordinary estate on a scenic pass between the two. It also has a fabulous spa. (delaire.co.za)

Magugu House at Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel

The South African designer Thebe Magugu has created a remarkable cultural space at Mount Nelson, bringing together fashion, art, design, and storytelling. I’ve long admired the intelligence and artistry of his practice. I’m also excited to be collaborating with him now in You’ve Been Here Before, an exhibition at Magugu House featuring work by Chemu Ng’ok and Misheck Masamvu. We also created the ongoing sculpture walk across the hotel’s historic gardens, which includes pieces by Yinka Shonibare, Ghada Amer, Kentridge, and Walter Oltmann. (belmond.com)

Photos: Anthea Pokroy; View Pictures/Hufton+Crow/Universal Images Group/Getty Images; Bruce Tuck Photography; migstock/Alamy; Courtesy of Delaire Graff Estate