The global dominance of fossil-based synthetics—what the European Commission found commanded 67 percent of the world’s textile fiber production in 2023 and contributes to the 90-odd million tons of textile waste landfilled annually—is facing its first major structural challenge from biobased innovation: plant-based nylon.

But first, consider traditional nylon. It’s one of the most widely used materials in the world, as the most common grade of nylon, popular for its durability and sheen. DuPont debuted the material at the 1939 World’s Fair, revolutionizing fashion forever when nylon stockings hit the market a year later in 1940. The Science History Institute even attributes the first viable synthetic fiber to helping the Allies win World War II.

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Nylon’s widespread use, however, has proven to be rife with environmental damage like microplastic pollution and egregious emissions, as well as human health risks. With a new revolution in mind, Pangaia is the latest label to get in bed with material innovators solving for fashion’s tenacious fossil-fuel habit.

Pangaia Lab, the British B Corp’s material innovation platform, has introduced a limited-edition capsule made using HeiQ’s trademarked, biodegradable cellulosic filament yarn, AeoniQ. The partners opted for just 55 pieces to “underscore the rarity and intention” behind the drop, named after its renewable—and reportedly soon to be circular—feedstock.

“We wanted to create a pilot that considered all partners involved, exploring what a viable minimum run could look like across both the mill and the factory,” said collection designer Chelsea Franklin, otherwise Pangaia’s head of advanced concept design.

The approach balanced efficiency with “the need to manage the risks inherent in working with a completely new material,” she continued, such as AeoniQ. “Limiting the release also allowed us to maintain full oversight of quality and circularity while marking this as a collector’s edition that celebrates scientific progress in material innovation.”

Every piece was made entirely from AeoniQ—what Pangaia called climate-positive by design, mirroring polyester’s performance without its environmental price. Designed and made in London, the capsule “translates science-led innovation into minimalist essentials,” featuring a hooded jacket, a half-zip overtop and a straight-leg trouser. The pieces have tonal text blocks, laser-etchings, as well as streamlined collars to emphasize design simplicity and purpose.

The weight and drape of the material are unique to AeoniQ, per Franklin, which is produced using a proprietary closed-loop process. That uniqueness, she continued, created “a new sensibility that had to be explored to be understood.”

“Each piece channels that discovery, elevated in its simplicity, fluid in movement and grounded in science,” Franklin said. “This is luxury defined not by excess, but by intelligence: a seamless fusion of innovation, responsibility and conscious design decisions.”

Each year, an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste ends up in landfill, according to UNEP—a figure projected to exceed 134 million tons by 2030. AeoniQ is produced for closed-loop circularity and uses renewable cellulose feedstocks, like wood pulp and eucalyptus pulp, to deliver material performance comparable to synthetics.

Working with the Swiss-based cleantech spin-off reinforced Franklin’s belief that material innovation and design “must evolve hand in hand.” After facing myriad roadblocks during different stages of development—as “you do with innovation,” she said—the partners found “perseverance and collaboration” to be crucial.

“For us, continuing to work through problems to reach a clear outcome was as much a part of the process as the final product itself,” Franklin said. “It’s a reminder that true innovation isn’t only about invention, but about integration and persistence.”

The result, a “rare expression of biobased, science-led luxury” collection, ranges from $395-$495 and goes live Oct. 9 on Pangaia’s website.

AeoniQ by Pangaia Lab swaps conventional synthetics for the eponymous cellulosic filament yarn, developed by the Swiss-based cleantech spin-off of HeiQ Materials. On the other hand, Genomatica is tackling the problem at the chemical production level, aiming to replace the petroleum-based feedstocks used to synthesize nylon-6.

The biomanufacturing technology firm has partnered with Japanese conglomerate Sojitz Corporation to accelerate the commercialization of the world’s first plant-based nylon-6. Organized across seven sectors, Sojitz raked in 598.9 billion Japanese yen—the equivalent of $3.95 billion—during this year’s first fiscal quarter. The Tokyo-based general trading company also made a strategic financial investment to fast-track time-to-market on top of sharing commercial and business acumen.

“We’re advancing our mission to enable cost-competitive production of plant-based nylon-6 at industrial scale,” said John Gugel, CEO of Geno. “Our collaboration with Sojitz and our other existing partners aims to accelerate commercialization of Geno’s breakthrough technology to provide consumers—and the major brands who serve them—with high-performance materials that are produced from traceable and renewable sources of carbon.”

Sojitz values progress through innovation, shared the general manager of its environment and life science department, Mitsutoshi Takagi; working with the San Diego-based “pioneer in industrial biomanufacturing,” the teams can “actively reshape the future of this sector with materials that are both commercially viable and globally responsible.”

“The Chemicals Division is actively promoting the development and trade of biobased chemicals,” Takagi added. “Leveraging our expertise and global network, Sojitz will further accelerate the development of the world’s first plant-based nylon-6 business.”