{"id":498779,"date":"2026-06-18T09:27:08","date_gmt":"2026-06-18T09:27:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/498779\/"},"modified":"2026-06-18T09:27:08","modified_gmt":"2026-06-18T09:27:08","slug":"dsm-kei-ninomiya-mens-spring-2027-ready-to-wear-runway-fashion-show-collection-review","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/498779\/","title":{"rendered":"DSM Kei\u00a0Ninomiya Men&#8217;s Spring 2027 Ready to Wear Runway, Fashion Show &#038; Collection Review"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tWhen the newfangled <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/menswear-news\/mens-designer-luxury\/dsm-kei-ninomiya-pitti-preview-1239005217\/\" data-type=\"link\" data-id=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/menswear-news\/mens-designer-luxury\/dsm-kei-ninomiya-pitti-preview-1239005217\/\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">DSM Kei Ninomiya<\/a> brand <a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/fashion-news\/designer-luxury\/dover-street-market-dsm-private-label-1237936866\/\" data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"1237936866\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">launched in 2025<\/a>, it came with a tagline that read \u201cUntitled, Untethered, Undefined.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tOn Wednesday night in Florence, the designer served up an explanation of that concept with his thrilling third collection for the maverick retail emporium\u2019s house brand \u2014 DSM Kei Ninomiya is also punk.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tThe show, staged inside the Sant\u2019Orsola convent-turned-museum, was an immersive performance with gritty undertones. Young and younger types wandered around the scaffolded courtyard disarranged, bumping into each other, sitting next to audience members, climbing the bleachers \u2014 seemingly unhinged, willing to let their rebellion, angst and self-expression flow.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tNo matter that at times the whole acting and choreographed moves felt too staged to be authentic, the show \u2014 Ninomiya told WWD during a preview \u2014 was meant to represent punk as \u201can attitude to creation.\u201d<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tIn fashion terms, it translated into a full-on celebration of the subculture\u2019s insignias.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tTartan kilts shortened to mid-thigh evoked both rebellion and sensuality; parachute pants and shorts had fasteners that bounded both legs; safety pins galore came tone-on-tone on bomber jackets and shirts, arrayed in neat rows that read couture-like embellishment; leather jackets tooled just so and sprayed with words like \u201cchaos\u201d were done in collaboration with Schott N.Y.C.; open weave knits were bedecked in punk pins and badges; trousers sitting midway between tailored and utilitarian featured zips running throughout, and edgy tailoring in black came with dangling chains. Black leather slip-ons courtesy of a collaboration with Vans and creepers developed with the OG punk footwear supplier, George Cox, completed the looks.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tReclaiming further legitimacy, the brand teamed with the estate of\u00a0Jamie Reid, incorporating artworks by the legendary British visual artist best known for developing the record cover for the Sex Pistols single \u201cGod Save the Queen\u201d into the collection\u2019s narrative.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tObservers have so far argued that the brand was just merch, after all.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cI don\u2019t think merch is a dirty word. I think it\u2019s cool,\u201d said Adrian Joffe, president of Comme des Gar\u00e7ons International\u00a0and chief executive officer of Dover Street Market.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tBut Ninomiya\u2019s punk boys for spring would never dare to mess their hairdo with a branded cap. Kudos to hairstylist Pablo K\u00fcmin for the mohawks and Afro hair intricately embellished with summer blooms and flowers, so showstopping they risked upstaging the collection.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\tThe inspiration of this collection also framed the brand\u2019s attitude. At the heart of DSM Kei Ninomiya is community, the designer \u2014 who\u2019s also behind the Noir brand \u2014 said.<\/p>\n<p class=\"paragraph larva \/\/ lrv-u-margin-lr-auto  lrv-a-font-body-m   \">\n\t\u201cIt\u2019s not only one style. We go based on [<a href=\"https:\/\/wwd.com\/accessories-news\/jewelry\/dover-street-market-los-angeles-jewelry-exhibition-1238992670\/\" id=\"related_article_link_dover-street-market\" data-tag=\"dover-street-market\" rel=\"nofollow noopener\" target=\"_blank\">Dover Street Market<\/a>\u2019s] philosophy or aesthetic, but we focus on a different community for each collection. Punk has many meanings,\u201d he said. It\u2019s a community that cares \u201cabout minorities, about people, it\u2019s not only about money\u2026 It\u2019s really more open to the people. I really like [that].\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"When the newfangled DSM Kei Ninomiya brand launched in 2025, it came with a tagline that read \u201cUntitled,&hellip;\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":498780,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[5367,146,85,46,229531,132496],"class_list":["post-498779","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-dover-street-market","tag-entertainment","tag-il","tag-israel","tag-kei-ninomiya","tag-pitti-uomo"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/498779","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=498779"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/498779\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/498780"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=498779"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=498779"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=498779"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}