\n\tSofia Crociani has built Aelis on posing questions about consumption, femininity, power and beauty.<\/p>\n
\n\tThis season she took that to a deeper \u2014 and slightly darker \u2014 place, presenting a collection that felt more substantial in both construction and a challenging point of view.<\/p>\n
\n\tHer penchant for lightness remained, demonstrated in translucent fabrics, delicate volumes and romantic silhouettes, but this season several pieces carried more structure and weight.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe dramatic feathered cape that opened the show was a standout, while a cobalt velvet gown evoked the Renaissance. A final pink ballgown was full of Crociani\u2019s signature folds that transformed the soft tulle into something architectural.<\/p>\n
\n\tCrociani continued her collaboration with the Grand Palais\u2019 Atelier de Moulage, creating sculptural fragments inspired by Roman commanders\u2019 togas. Plaster transformed with black pigment into a concrete-like material secured the shoulder of a draped duchesse satin gown as a symbol of power.<\/p>\n
\n\tBut the collection\u2019s central statement came through her use of hair. Working with ethically sourced hair as embellishment, Crociani explored the idea of keratin \u2014 after all, human hair, wool, hooves, feathers and fur all belong to the same family, yet fashion assigns them very different values.<\/p>\n
\n\tBy using hair as a core element of her collection, she wanted to challenge the way so-called luxury materials are perceived and questioned the true cost behind them.<\/p>\n
\n\tReclaimed feathers, including the ones on that stunner of a cape, were archival egret to reference the millinery plume trade that drove the birds to the brink of extinction in the early 20th century. That melancholy note reinforced the designer\u2019s ongoing exploration of humanity\u2019s impact on the natural world.<\/p>\n
\n\tUnfortunately, that might not be obvious when scrolling looks through Instagram.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs always with Aelis, the collection demands attention beyond the surface. Crociani\u2019s work is deeply researched, and the concepts are often as important as the garments themselves. That intellectual approach can make the clothes challenging, but it is also what gives the brand its distinct identity.<\/p>\n
\n\tCrociani has developed not only a recognizable house design code, but a moral one as well.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Sofia Crociani has built Aelis on posing questions about consumption, femininity, power and beauty. This season she took…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":533652,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[146,243450,85,46,133247,11092],"class_list":["post-533651","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-entertainment","tag-haute-couture-fashion-week","tag-il","tag-israel","tag-paris-couture-week","tag-paris-fashion-week"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/533651","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=533651"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/533651\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/533652"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=533651"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=533651"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=533651"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}