\n\tAmong the slew of designer debuts in Paris this season, Glenn Martens\u2019 coed ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela was technically not a first, since he already set out his vision for the brand with his Artisanal show in July.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tThat haute couture collection, which tilted the Paris house in a dark, daring and DIY direction, has been snapped up by celebrities like Cate Blanchett and Lisa Manobal.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cIt feels a bit less heavy, of course,\u201d he said of this outing. \u201cI kind of proved myself already a bit in July \u2014 but sadly, the internet and the press doesn\u2019t care,\u201d Martens added with a laugh.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe million-dollar question, of course, was whether he would follow in the footsteps of his predecessor John Galliano and keep pushing the conceptual envelop with his ready-to-wear, or steer the brand back into more commercial waters.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs former creative director of the now-defunct Paris label Y\/Project \u2014 where he accrued a reputation for innovative cutting and an experimental approach to fashion \u2014 and current designer-in-chief at denim juggernaut Diesel, Martens is equally well versed in both approaches.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\t\u201cI love all the quirkiness of fashion and things that don\u2019t make any kind of sense to wear \u2014 and that\u2019s what we have Artisanal for \u2014 but thanks to my experience at Diesel, I also do love to make clothes [that] people want to wear, which wasn\u2019t maybe always the thing happening at Y\/Project,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n
\n\tAs students at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Martens and his friends used to stock up on Margiela at outlet stores.\u00a0\u201cWe were living in it, and I think that\u2019s definitely something that I wanted to bring back with this collection: to make clothes that people want to live in,\u201d he said.<\/p>\n
\n\tThe result was a lineup that touched on key brand codes, but offered a broader assortment of categories, including a beefed-up selection of denim and the return of leather.<\/p>\n
\n\tGuests including Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner let out a collective \u201caww\u201d as a troupe of local children, dressed in oversize black suits, took their seats in an orchestra pit and proceeded to play wonky renditions of classical music hits.<\/p>\n
\n\tNoting that Margiela always started with \u201ca shoulder and a shoe,\u201d Martens riffed on a slightly dropped shoulder shape and a heel-less shoe that he offered in a variety of styles, from pumps to boots.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\n\tHe sliced the lapels off suits and trenchcoats and gave them ties, echoing the white lab coats worn by Margiela staffers.\u00a0Biker jackets and crisp white poplin shirts came with tuck-in collars, and were worn with drop-crotch pants or slipdresses bonded with plastic tape.<\/p>\n
\n\tAmong the best ideas were tailored jackets shrouded in black chiffon, leaving only a ghostly shape, and men\u2019s jackets and coats with silk scarves fused into the neckline, for a clever trompe-l\u2019oeil effect.<\/p>\n
\n\tIt was a pity the models didn\u2019t collectively revolt against the mouthpieces modeled after Margiela\u2019s four-stitch signature. In its show notes, the brand said it was to achieve a \u201cuniformity of expression,\u201d but distorting the face of any model \u2014 let alone veterans like Guinevere Van Seenus, Saskia de Brauw and Hanne Gaby Odiele \u2014 was at best a waste, at worst insensitive.<\/p>\n
\n\tWhile this collection did not set off fireworks, it was strong enough to stand on its own \u2014 no gimmicks required.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Among the slew of designer debuts in Paris this season, Glenn Martens\u2019 coed ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela…\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":55393,"comment_status":"","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[146,11062,41611,85,46,41612,11092],"class_list":["post-55392","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-entertainment","tag-entertainment","tag-fashion-show-reviews","tag-glenn-martens","tag-il","tag-israel","tag-maison-margiela","tag-paris-fashion-week"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/55392","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=55392"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/55392\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/55393"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=55392"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=55392"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.newsbeep.com\/il\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=55392"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}